C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

anyone using an msd crank trigger?

Old Oct 2, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #21  
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Mos, a chassis dyno and an oscilliscope are what you really need. What are you using for an ignition box ?

I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.

Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?

Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?

The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SloRvette
It's because of the Opti. Delteq conversions still use the opti as a triggering device. They just take the spark transfer out of the cap.
That would be my next question. If I did the conversion, couldn't I use the crank trigger as the triggering device?
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 09:24 AM
  #23  
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The opti puts out a different width signal for each individual cylinder. A standard type crank trigger can't do that. There needs to be a reference to indicate where to start the firing order with a multiple coil ignition system. You should check with Delteq. I seem to remember them working on a crank trigger setup for a couple of people.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SloRvette
Mos, a chassis dyno and an oscilliscope are what you really need. What are you using for an ignition box ?

I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.

Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?

Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?

The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
i have a digital 6 box and hvc 2 coil. this was happening with the old flash in my xfi. last year i ran 730 ecm. i havnt drivin it with the new update. i tried it in the garage and with a timing gun at 4500 the timing was fluttering some but no code or breaking up. i still think the crank trigger is going to help.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 10:41 AM
  #25  
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i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.

i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..

thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.

now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mos90
i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.

i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..

thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.

now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
Good to see that you got her all sorted out. The crank trigger on mine really smoothed out the RPM signal from the DFI and made my timing much more positive....Sounds like your experience is similiar.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mos90
i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.

i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..

thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.

now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
What did the back of the new pulley end up looking like? Did it just have one really long pilot that was long enough to go through the trigger wheel and still engage the balancer? Or did it also have a larger (than pilot) diameter flange for the trigger wheel to center on?
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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it had the standard flange on the rear. the trigger has a flange for the pully to slide into. so the trigger slides into the balancer then the pully slides into the trigger.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Good to hear the trigger fixed things.
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