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My car is making a ticking sound, it scales with RPM. I unplugged each injector and the ticking did not stop. I do not see evidence of a gasket leaking or a wire grounding. So I am thinking it's a lifter. I adjusted the lash and the sound didn't go away. Is there a good way to tell for sure if this noise is a lifter and witch one it is?
If it is a lifter I was thinking of putting in new thinner head gaskets while changing the lifter. What else would be good to do while it's taken a part? Valve seals? 1.6 rockers? I don't want to rebuilt it now, when the engine dies I will do a 383 but for now I am spending money on track days and having fun.
I can go look. Would a leak there cause a rich condition? I constantly get code 13 and have tried different o2 sensors, and the wiring checked good. I am thinking a lifter would be doing this. The o2 gets carbon fouled very quick. I'll run out and check.
IMO yes..remove the valve cover and listen for where the noise is coming from. Place a long screw driver onto the suspect stud and put the handle against your ear.
You will soon establish which one is loose or faulty.
When you have identified the culprit, wind it down until the ticking stops then give it an extra 1/4 or so turn.
If you have recently adjusted lash, it is more than likely that this will fix your problem.
Good luck with it...
This is a "long shot" and here it is! You may have a spark plug wire shorting to ground and this will make a noticible ticking noise. Get the car into a dark place, open the hood with the service light off and then start the engine. Look for any light (sparks) coming from the ignition wires. Hope this helps.
I checked in the dark for sparks, have not seen any. I ran the car a while looking around. The noise really seems to come from the middle of the engine, under the plenum. I stuck my head down by the exhaust gaskets and there is no noise there.
I could try pulling each injector wire and checking the o2 for fouling each time. That may tell me witch cylinder it is.
I tried the blow smoke in the TPI trick with no smoke appearing.
I have not run a car with the valve covers off since high school, so I'm not sure I'll be able to tell with the oil.
When you pull the valve covers off and start the engine, not all of the hydraulic lifters will not be full of oil. Those that are not full will squirt oil for a few seconds and then they will stop squirting. Some of the valves may kick some oil onto the exhaust manifolds and this will create smoke. With the engine running, lay your finger on each rocker arm and you will be able to feel the "bad boy", if you have a lifter problem. This is a good test to find a noisy lifter, but a bit messy with the oil. Do it!!
Since the o2 is fouling on the drivers side, I'm thinking the problem is on that side. The sound seems to come from the middle, I can't really tell the side just by listening. It's easy to pull that valve cover though, I will try that this weekend.
chucks88, I was saying that it's been a long time since I have had a valve cover off with the engine running, so I don't remember what the oil all looks like. I did adjust the lash on this car, but with the engine off.
Sounds like a broken valve spring I had on an old big block, double springs and the inside one snaped. Use some thick aluminium foil to keep the oil off the headers and flowing back to the head with the cover off.
Do you have any power loss at idle or higher rpms? You do know you can replace the lifter with out removing the heads or intake manifold don't you? Theres a neat little grabber tool that goes in through the push rod hole...
.....You do know you can replace the lifter with out removing the heads or intake manifold don't you? Theres a neat little grabber tool that goes in through the push rod hole...
HUH??? This is a SBC we're talking about isn't it?
I just checked a set of 2-yr old, unused Vortec heads I have in the basement and there's no way you're gonna get a lifter thru the pushrod hole. I don't remember ever seeing a SBC head you could do that to.
I set my valve lash a few times on this car with the car running as a double check. It took 1800 rpms for there to be enough oil pressure for the oil to squirt up and over the heads. I really don't think you'll make a mess by starting the car with the valve covers off.
You dont have to remove the heads to do the lifters, but the intake manifold will have to come off. Being an 88 it will have roller lifters which will have retainers and id like to see someone remove those with the manifold in place, that would be interesting.
Originally Posted by chucks88
I set my valve lash a few times on this car with the car running as a double check. It took 1800 rpms for there to be enough oil pressure for the oil to squirt up and over the heads. I really don't think you'll make a mess by starting the car with the valve covers off.
Yeah youll be right at regular idle speed, wont be too messy at all.
HUH??? This is a SBC we're talking about isn't it?
I just checked a set of 2-yr old, unused Vortec heads I have in the basement and there's no way you're gonna get a lifter thru the pushrod hole. I don't remember ever seeing a SBC head you could do that to.
I changed a lifter on my 86 by removing the rocker, guide plate and push rod. Telescopic magnet went right in and pulled it out. There is a hole big enough and it's not the hole the push rod goes through. Won't work with roller lifters though.
What else would be good to do while there? Low cost ideas? Thinner head gaskets, minor porting and polishing, new valve seals, bigger valves? When you put in bigger valves, is it really difficult to modify the head? I could probably get some 1.6 rockers to.
I'm going to replace my TV cable this weekend and if it's warm enough I'll pull the valve cover. It's snowing now.