This post a few weeks back will mention what my intentions are:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1595844.

Since that post I have purchased the TPIS Miniram with fuel rails, and a set of AFR 195cc Eliminators. The next thing is to pick out a 1 piece real main seal rotating assembly.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...092&CtgID=9038 This is the assembly I have narrowed it down to. I was curious if there are any members that are currently running this assembly. It is my understanding that it needs to be internally balanced, and for the cost of around $100 you might as well let the place your buying it from balance the crank/rods/pistons.


You can press on the link above if you wish for all the information and price. Below is what I copyed and pasted.

"ESP" Full competition rotating assemblies are the perfect choice for racers desiring a bullet proof bottom end peformance engine.

New Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft ( late Style 1 piece rear main seal 87-99 blocks).
New Eagle "ESP" 3-D H-Beam connecting rods ( Bushed Fit Pins ).
New SRP forged high performance aluminum pistons, with pins and locks .
Premium Plasma moly performance piston ring set.
Clevite 77 high performance H series performance rod and main bearing set.
Kit must be balanced if not done by CNC-Motorsports.

The heads I have chosen from AFR are 65cc combustion chamber. I am thinking of dropping the piston in the hole approx. 0.010 and with a head gasket of .039 would give me a CR of around 10.7, and a squish of .049.

Just curious as to what you guys think. I am able to get this assembly for $1353. And the store mentioned to me that a standard crank balance, like what CNC and Eagle do are $100. If I want a race balance with rods and pistons matched as well it's $150.

Anyone running that assembly? What do you guys think I know Eagle is not the "best", but my budget does not allow a $2500 rotating assembly.

 

Eagle is far from my first choice.
I have had their machine work bite me in the azz more than a few times. Scat rose in popularity right about the same time Eagle began to decline in quality. Scat(at least in the late 90's) focused on the machine work and seemed to take a chunk of the lower- mid dollar market regarding rotating assemblies. The engine builders I am tight with only use eagle when they have to. Better quality stuff out there.

 

My final straw with eagle was on the last 434 I assembled. After ordering and rebalancing there "balanced" rotating assembly, it went together smoothly. Before the final dress, we went to install the ATI balancer and it went on by hand. Mic' ing the snout revealed that Eagle machined it too small. ATI had to make a custom balancer to salvage the press fit. Eagle's point of view was that we should have check that. No one checks the od of the balancer snout. I do now (every time) because of it. The $300-$400 we saved on a rotating assembly was sent to ATI to fix the egg Eagle laid.

 

I have an Eagle 4340 forged crankshft for the 406 I'm building. I thought I was getting a good quality part when I bought it, but now I'm starting to read bad things about Eagle, so I'm going to mic the whole thing before I put it in. Are there any other potential problems that I should be concerned with besides machine work? Also, since I don't remember off the top of my head, what are the specs for the Journal sizes and snout, etc.?

Anyway, back to the origal subject, I have seen some realy good prices on complete ballanced rotating assemblies on Ebay. Be sure to check there before you buy anything.

 

I have a 383 with scat crank and SRP pistons. haven't run it yet, but that's what i got to keep the lower half together.
I am not really worried, the TPI won't let it spin fast enough to fly apart anyway. But the low end grunt ought to be good

 

How about ohio crankshaft?

Scroll down, several 383 options

I have seen them mentioned here before, IIRC, they were positive experiences.

Also, ask over in engine mods. There are at least few builders with a lot of experience. It's like having a forum full of Pete K's.

 

We use alot of eagle kits. A couple dozen a year. We never have any real issues with them. I order them unbalanced, because even if I bought them balanced, I would pay to have them checked. My machinist says they're all real close. And we check everything. The only thing we find with any consistency is the big ends of the rods are a little tight.
Comparing eagle and scat cranks side by side, the one thing I've noticed that makes a big difference to me, is Eagle moves the counterweights slightly, and drills the rod journals thru. this allows them to internally balance a crank without adding mallory. To me thats a big advantage.
And my machinist tells me even the unbalanced kits rarely require removing much weight. This guys been building motors since the 60s, including Top Alcohol hemis.

 

How do you plan to drip "the piston in the hole approx. 0.010"? Are you going to special order pistons with an extra .010" compression height? If you add .010" to the .039" head gasket and the existing (?) piston to deck clearance, you won't be anywhere near a .049" squish.

 

I am thinking of going .005 or .010 rather than zero decking the block. From what I hear a tight quench is efficient. Although it raises th CR, it reduces the tendancy to detonate. Would these facts be true? I have read a few things today. I quench(squish) in the .040-.050 is ideal from what I read.

I had a chat with TJWONG however and he mentioned that 11.0 was to high. He would like to see somewhere in the 10.3 area, but I cant get that low with that assembly I have listed above.

 

Another problem I have seen with Eagle was the rod journals were not machined wide enough. This gave the connecting rods negative end play. Of course, this was discovered after balancing. Crank was remachined then rebalanced. First time I saw it was with a 347 ford crank. Next 2 were small chevy. One was a 4 inch stroke, 1 was a 3.75 stroke. Because were were burned the first time, we caught the other 2.

 

TJ is correct. Although many run 11:1 or better, it is a pain for guys like us. The tune up becomes critical.

 

I've read way too many mixed reviews about Eagle's stuff. IMO, I'd pass and save $ for better parts.

 

True, mostly. "Ideal" is the piston just kissing the head. The benefit of quench (squish) all but disappears as the piston to head clearance approaches .060". The tighter the quench distance, the more effective it is. Generally, the benefit of a GOOD quench area will over come the slight increase in compression ratio it produces. If you are uncomfortable with the CR, you would be better off to gain your top end ccs by increasing the combustion chamber volume, then by increasing the piston to head clearance. Do some work unshrouding the valves?

 

Could u explain a little more? The heads I ordered from AFR is the 195 CC Eliminator. They state that the combustion chamber is 65cc.

Keep in mind this will be my first motor so I am all (ears). We all know engines arent cheap to build, So I want to maximize the combination.

 

eagle is made in China, you get what you pay for.

 

If you (u, yew) have figured your compression ratio and determined that another .010" of deck clearance will give you the CR you're looking for, you are getting close to splitting hairs. Your .010" of piston travel displaces somewhere around 2+ ccs. You wouldn't have to remove much of the combustion chamber side, adjacent to the valves, to add 2 or 3 ccs.

 

I have seen a lot of engines built with Eagle parts and for the most part the parts and engines perform well. A local Eagle distributor has a engine that is based on Eagle parts and he has had very good luck with it. The car is a super gas Mustang that runs in the 9.90 class. I know this person well as he is also my local cam grinder and he freshens the engine every season and the rotating parts seem to wear very well for him.

As a rule of thumb have your machine shop double check all clearances for fit, I personally don't order their parts as a balanced assembly because I ALWAYS have my machine shop check the balance of the assembly so there is no sense paying twice to do this part of the work. I do this for all rotating assemblies no mater if they are Eagle or Callies or Lunati parts.

As far is the squish demension goes, ideally I like to see the piston in the hole .005 to compensate for any piston rock, with forged pistons they are looser in the hole because of the additional skirt clearance. If you run a hyper cast piston you can get away with a zero deck. Ricks situation is that he has a 64cc head combined with a flat top piston that will yield a relatively high compression of nearly 11:1. If he uses a .039 compressed thickness head gasket and have the deck milled so that the piston deck height is at .010 this will yield a static compression of 10.7:1. Which in his case where he has 94 octane fuel available, he should be OK. I would have personally preferred a 70cc chamber for his combination to utilize the flat top 383 combination that would yield a bit over 10:1.

Also he doesn't have to get a custom piston to have them .010 in the hole. Most if not all off the shelf pistons has a compression height made to be at zero deck if the block deck height is at 9.00". The blueprint specs of a SBC engine deck height is at 9.025", and most production blocks are at 9.030". So this means that Ricks machine shop will have to mill his block deck height to 9.010 to acheive the .010" deck height for the SRP flat tops that will be supplied in his 383 rotating assembly. When a machine shop squares and trues his block deck the final deck height should be 9.010". This is a common machine shop operation and should be part of any performance engine build.

 

I raced on Eagle cranks and rods for years.
All the parts were good, the cranks never need to have mallory added/

Check Dynoflow.com for Eagle /srp prices, they are one of the biggest sellers of Eagle in the world and usually have unbeatable prices.

There are alot of anti chinese snobs out there that have about 80% of everything they own made there whether they know it or not.

Get over it.

 

I said the exact same thing in another post. buy my stuff unbalanced. Everything I've bought from them is very consistent.

 

The castings and forgings are made in China, they are finished here. My Eagle crank checked perfectly in every respect. The lightweight Eagle rods I use must be fairly stout, I've seen them spec'd for a sprint car class!