A really basic question... brake bleeding
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Galveston Texas
Bleeding MC on Car
This is the procedure we used at the brake shop where I use to work.
1. Install new MC and tighten lines snug but not real tight.
2. Fill MC with fluid.
3. Have some one sit in car to pump pedal on command. Car can be off, but easier if running.
4. Open front line 1/2 turn or so and give command "Down"
5. Helper pushes pedal to floor and holds it there.
6. You then close line and give command "Up".
7. Repeat this procedure until you start to have a strong spurt of fluid around the fitting.
8. Repeat process with other line.
9. The key is to keep air from being sucked back in when the pedal is coming backup.
10. Also, I would use a shop towel to absorb fluid around the MC fittings.
11. I would then repeat process at calipers.
Hope this helps.
1. Install new MC and tighten lines snug but not real tight.
2. Fill MC with fluid.
3. Have some one sit in car to pump pedal on command. Car can be off, but easier if running.
4. Open front line 1/2 turn or so and give command "Down"
5. Helper pushes pedal to floor and holds it there.
6. You then close line and give command "Up".
7. Repeat this procedure until you start to have a strong spurt of fluid around the fitting.
8. Repeat process with other line.
9. The key is to keep air from being sucked back in when the pedal is coming backup.
10. Also, I would use a shop towel to absorb fluid around the MC fittings.
11. I would then repeat process at calipers.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by lrb452; Jun 25, 2007 at 10:16 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 2
From: Canandaigua New York
My Plymouth Grand Voyager said I had to pump the brake pedal 42 times before adding fluid.
Ridiculous waste of time.
There is more than one way to do a job and have it come out right.
The manual isn't always the last word. It's meant to be a guide.
Last edited by Keystring; Jun 25, 2007 at 12:30 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
Likes: 707
From: WI
You can push the calipers pistons in to. The reason bleeding at the M/C or pushing the pistons in is better is because the air wants to travel upward not downward to the caliper. So bleeding at the M/C will get the air out there better then trying to force it all the way down to the caliper and out.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 2
From: Canandaigua New York
You can push the calipers pistons in to. The reason bleeding at the M/C or pushing the pistons in is better is because the air wants to travel upward not downward to the caliper. So bleeding at the M/C will get the air out there better then trying to force it all the way down to the caliper and out.
I have replaced my rear brake line back to the block and simply bled the air at that point. I didn't need to bleed each wheel because the lines were already full of fluid. The air will 'push out' as the fluid refills the end of the line. Then you simply tighten the lines down.
As the air rises, fluid rushes in to fill the gap.
There is nothing wrong with doing a job 'by the book', if that is what you are comfortable with, but,there is more than one way to do a job and have the same results.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
It doesn't matter what the manual says because I have done it the way I described many times on many different cars.
My Plymouth Grand Voyager said I had to pump the brake pedal 42 times before adding fluid.
Ridiculous waste of time.
There is more than one way to do a job and have it come out right.
The manual isn't always the last word. It's meant to be a guide.
My Plymouth Grand Voyager said I had to pump the brake pedal 42 times before adding fluid.
Ridiculous waste of time.
There is more than one way to do a job and have it come out right.
The manual isn't always the last word. It's meant to be a guide.
