The power and tach plug area on the cap should be at the 3o'clock position.

 

and it is, with the rotor in the correct position and alignment as well. So why isnt it working?

 

Do you have a timing light?

 

Yes I do, but it wont stay running long enough to tell exactly where the timing is at.

It was behaving the same way when the timing was at 10* BTDC.

 

Have you tried propping the throttle blades open a little?

When I had this problem, I could at least keep it running with a little gas added. Might be worth a try.

If you can get it running that way, disconnect the EST (brown and black wire near your wiper motor / distributor on the driver side), hook up your timing light, crank it and watch.

I'll go take a pic of the location of my distributor if you'd like really quick. I'm at 6*BTDC. I just set mine about a week or so ago. That might help you with getting it relocated.

As said earlier:

I know you said the MAF is OK, but it might be worth a quick try to disconnect it. It'll throw a code since it's not "on", but I had this same exact issue about a year ago and it was due to a dead MAF.

I'll run outside and grab a few pics for you.

 

In your pic the dizzy is not set with the power and tach plugs at 3 oclock?Have you disconnected the est plug it is by the break booster single wire plug.?Disconnect this first try to start car and move dizzy a little till it runs then look at it with a light set it at 6* before then reconnect est plug.If you can't find the mark your dizzys off, timing chain jumped or balancer has slipped.

 

You know I didnt think about opening the throttle by hand, duh! I disconnected the MAF and it didnt have any effect and thats how it says to test it in my FSM.

 

Here's where mine is currently set.

 

Did you get it fixed?or did you decide to sell?

 

Dizzy should be installed like this
http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Spark...g%20Wiring.pdf

 

also you can have #1 anywhere on the cap you want as long as the rotor is pointing at that electrode when at 0* top dead center #1 piston.

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak assuming the distributor is in right. .

Check it again.

 

When u intsall distributor back on the car, may be u install 1 tooth advance, so u need to advance more as its now. So just advance more more more till u the car running fine, than use timing light to see where u r at.

 

In your last picture it's still not where it was intended to be, one of the posters said 3 oclock which is right, your's is pointing toward 2 oclock. And if #1 plug wire is in its original position on the cap....you're way off.
Sorry, but I think you need some help here.

 

could pull each wire one at a time and move them to the left i think, should give you more room to advance.

 

There's a right way...and the other way the other way is leading you down a path you don't want to take. The right way is a 20 minute job, if I had a beer break. If you want directions just ask.

 

Like poster said before his distrib is way off.
It is pointing at 2 o clock not 3 o clock by his pictures he posted.
Thats has to be the issue.

I think anger is taking over making his job harder than it should be.

Dont sell your car, you will get the problem fixed in time.

Ps.. your MAF should throw a code 33-34 if it unplugged.
Sounds like you may have another problem on your hands and have a bad MAF or relays

 

I did manage to get the distributor pointed pretty much in the 3 o'clock position and the timing is right around where it should be. It still runs like crap though so I guess timing isnt the problem.

I have no idea if I mentioned this before but the idle will jump from 500 up to 1100 and back over and over by itself. When I turned it off last time I heard the IAC making a whirring noise and then a relay clicks. The relay sits right between the wiper motor and the brake booster on the firewall. I have a pic if you need to see it.

When I unplugged my MAF I did NOT get any codes from it.

 

ok i just pulled mine so here what you need to do.
1. take cap off.
2. turn crank until the timing mark is on 0.
3. look at rotor on distributor to see where it is pointing. it will be pointing to like 5 o'clock...correct or 10 o'clock...180 out of time. if you are running then you are not 180 out
4. get a timing lite. 30.00-100.00 at any store even miejer and wal-mart has them.
5. dissconnect the brown wire by the brake booster. it is a single wire you cant miss it. if you do not undo it the computer will pull and add timing and you will never get it set.
6. loosen 14mm bolt on distributor and connect timing lite. red to + on battery black to - on battery and clamp #1 plug wire with remaining hook up
7. start car and set timing to 6 before tdc.
8. tighten down distributor bolt and recheck...took 3 time b4 i didn't move the dist when tightening mine
9. reconnect the brown wire and you should be fine.

i had same issues with mine and some worse mine was one tooth out and i couldn't get it to turn far enough to get timeing mark even on the grid......

if this don't work...i bet it does....be sure not to take it back to the say mech!!!

oh and my distributor is is same orientation as yours. # one is the second plug clock wise from the batt and tach hook up. reaay though the rotor will tell you where number one is

 

mine looks just like this. number 1 being right under the y in delco remy