Optispark issues - Time to fix it!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
First lets differentiate between a part that has low reliability and a part that is operationally superior. A part can have poor reliability and work well, or have great reliability and work poor.
The point is the opti works great because has direct drive so no gear slop. And it sends back crankshaft positioning every degree per revolution or 360 data bits per revolution. This coupled to the ECM/PCM which basically is a computer, which can take this data along with the other engine sensor inputs and make highly accurate computations for timing. Loading, RPM, temperature, throttle position, knock and such are just some input factors that the computer can take to deliver the optimum timing made possible by the optispark high precision of output data.
For more detail: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...htp_optispark/
Now for the failure rate. Mine failed (stumble on acceleration) with 12 years of service on it. Of course in these years you are going to see failures, but that’s with lots of time and mileage on it. The failure rate was lower when the car was new during the first few years and performance was the same. Or to say another way, the failure rate is higher now because they are 12-13 years old, but the operation is superior to most other distributor systems.
Twelve years of operation and no maintenance performed, not bad. Show me other distributors with no service in that time frame. Putting things into perspective, I would like to see how the MSD system (or others) holds up in the year 2019 (12 years).
The point is the opti works great because has direct drive so no gear slop. And it sends back crankshaft positioning every degree per revolution or 360 data bits per revolution. This coupled to the ECM/PCM which basically is a computer, which can take this data along with the other engine sensor inputs and make highly accurate computations for timing. Loading, RPM, temperature, throttle position, knock and such are just some input factors that the computer can take to deliver the optimum timing made possible by the optispark high precision of output data.
For more detail: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...htp_optispark/
Now for the failure rate. Mine failed (stumble on acceleration) with 12 years of service on it. Of course in these years you are going to see failures, but that’s with lots of time and mileage on it. The failure rate was lower when the car was new during the first few years and performance was the same. Or to say another way, the failure rate is higher now because they are 12-13 years old, but the operation is superior to most other distributor systems.
Twelve years of operation and no maintenance performed, not bad. Show me other distributors with no service in that time frame. Putting things into perspective, I would like to see how the MSD system (or others) holds up in the year 2019 (12 years).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
This is a no brainer. If you have a hotrod then put whatever aftermarket unit on that suits you. If you have a nice original car then keep it all GM and put a new Opti on. You are not going to hose the engine down anyway are you? And the electric waterpump is a complete waste of money. It does not free up horsepower except maybe in a drag race where you might switch the alternator off. Power to pump water has to come from somewhere and with the electric pump it comes from throwing additional load on the alternator. If anything it probably costs power due to losses in the energy conversion process. Keep your nice original Corvette all GM.
A sales manager once told me there is no such thing as a lemon car, only lemon owners. Optis are maligned by lemon owners who would not recognize and appreciate slick engineering if it came down Main Street wearing a red hat. Corvette engineers have a tough job. They have to figure out how to bring you advanced technology in a slick package at an affordable price. I suppose the detractors might have a point in blaming GM for building a Corvette to sell in a relatively low price class for that type of car. They should have done all the things the detractors complain about and gone ahead and charged $100K for it to protect their good name. This is what Porsche does, ever try to see what $50K buys you over at their place? It will have four cylinders and be used.
A sales manager once told me there is no such thing as a lemon car, only lemon owners. Optis are maligned by lemon owners who would not recognize and appreciate slick engineering if it came down Main Street wearing a red hat. Corvette engineers have a tough job. They have to figure out how to bring you advanced technology in a slick package at an affordable price. I suppose the detractors might have a point in blaming GM for building a Corvette to sell in a relatively low price class for that type of car. They should have done all the things the detractors complain about and gone ahead and charged $100K for it to protect their good name. This is what Porsche does, ever try to see what $50K buys you over at their place? It will have four cylinders and be used.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
First lets differentiate between a part that has low reliability and a part that is operationally superior. A part can have poor reliability and work well, or have great reliability and work poor.
The point is the opti works great because has direct drive so no gear slop. And it sends back crankshaft positioning every degree per revolution or 360 data bits per revolution. This coupled to the ECM/PCM which basically is a computer, which can take this data along with the other engine sensor inputs and make highly accurate computations for timing. Loading, RPM, temperature, throttle position, knock and such are just some input factors that the computer can take to deliver the optimum timing made possible by the optispark high precision of output data.
For more detail: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...htp_optispark/
Now for the failure rate. Mine failed (stumble on acceleration) with 12 years of service on it. Of course in these years you are going to see failures, but that’s with lots of time and mileage on it. The failure rate was lower when the car was new during the first few years and performance was the same. Or to say another way, the failure rate is higher now because they are 12-13 years old, but the operation is superior to most other distributor systems.
Twelve years of operation and no maintenance performed, not bad. Show me other distributors with no service in that time frame. Putting things into perspective, I would like to see how the MSD system (or others) holds up in the year 2019 (12 years).
The point is the opti works great because has direct drive so no gear slop. And it sends back crankshaft positioning every degree per revolution or 360 data bits per revolution. This coupled to the ECM/PCM which basically is a computer, which can take this data along with the other engine sensor inputs and make highly accurate computations for timing. Loading, RPM, temperature, throttle position, knock and such are just some input factors that the computer can take to deliver the optimum timing made possible by the optispark high precision of output data.
For more detail: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...htp_optispark/
Now for the failure rate. Mine failed (stumble on acceleration) with 12 years of service on it. Of course in these years you are going to see failures, but that’s with lots of time and mileage on it. The failure rate was lower when the car was new during the first few years and performance was the same. Or to say another way, the failure rate is higher now because they are 12-13 years old, but the operation is superior to most other distributor systems.
Twelve years of operation and no maintenance performed, not bad. Show me other distributors with no service in that time frame. Putting things into perspective, I would like to see how the MSD system (or others) holds up in the year 2019 (12 years).
Now if there was a crank trigger setup that was plug and play for my car (ie the CCM recieved the signals it needs from the opti I'd be in. Even if it cost 1 or 2K since a crank trigger would be an improvement. However, a rear distributor is not an improvement and some of the highly anticipated/lauded aftermarket options have not been performing up to snuff in their limited existance.
.......and the symptoms, do not scream OPTI.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
This is a no brainer. If you have a hotrod then put whatever aftermarket unit on that suits you. If you have a nice original car then keep it all GM and put a new Opti on. You are not going to hose the engine down anyway are you? And the electric waterpump is a complete waste of money. It does not free up horsepower except maybe in a drag race where you might switch the alternator off. Power to pump water has to come from somewhere and with the electric pump it comes from throwing additional load on the alternator. If anything it probably costs power due to losses in the energy conversion process. Keep your nice original Corvette all GM.
A sales manager once told me there is no such thing as a lemon car, only lemon owners. Optis are maligned by lemon owners who would not recognize and appreciate slick engineering if it came down Main Street wearing a red hat. Corvette engineers have a tough job. They have to figure out how to bring you advanced technology in a slick package at an affordable price. I suppose the detractors might have a point in blaming GM for building a Corvette to sell in a relatively low price class for that type of car. They should have done all the things the detractors complain about and gone ahead and charged $100K for it to protect their good name. This is what Porsche does, ever try to see what $50K buys you over at their place? It will have four cylinders and be used.
A sales manager once told me there is no such thing as a lemon car, only lemon owners. Optis are maligned by lemon owners who would not recognize and appreciate slick engineering if it came down Main Street wearing a red hat. Corvette engineers have a tough job. They have to figure out how to bring you advanced technology in a slick package at an affordable price. I suppose the detractors might have a point in blaming GM for building a Corvette to sell in a relatively low price class for that type of car. They should have done all the things the detractors complain about and gone ahead and charged $100K for it to protect their good name. This is what Porsche does, ever try to see what $50K buys you over at their place? It will have four cylinders and be used.
I wash my engine with a hose and never have OPTI problem. Just don't hit it with a high pressure stream (same a conventional diff)
The electric water pump is a PROVEN performance increase.... the pump runs one speed its designed to be efficient at that speed. I agree that the factory pump will spin faster at high rpm however, that does not mean it will move more water than the electric pump at high rpms. Since the factory pump has a wide rpm range it may cavitate at high rpm and just waste HP without moving water.
...and the EWP really shines when you're sitting in traffic on a 100* day in a modified LTX with head/cam/headers and a big honking stall TC (known to make some heat) and you're sitting in the cabin at about 68 degrees because the AC is kicking and engine is not overheating.
Last edited by aboatguy; Jun 16, 2007 at 11:05 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
The one weak point we've found with the Dynaspark is the rotor is stock. Over about 6200-6500 they start to come apart. Everthing else is excellent. The first pic is from Steve40th, the rest are from mine. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 1
From: Merritt Island Florida
My second choice is MSD. I keep reading about how good the Dynaspark is supposed to be but hopefully, the MSD is good too. Sure is expensive....
I plan to change to an electric water pump too. I believe it is superior to the stock one and eliminates any possibility of leaks on the opti, although the new opti is sealed with venting.
Billy
Last edited by wilsonbh; Jun 16, 2007 at 06:02 PM.
Navigator
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
In response to the question can the opti just die? It sure can! My 92
just shut off dead at highway speed leaving me coasting to a stop, never to start again. I was told that a seal had gone leading to the
failure. GM charged over $1200.00 for the opti and the job was about
$2000.00 total. That was a couple of years ago when I was totally
ignorant of them available at the prices you guys are talking about and
of course being in Canada adds to the price.
just shut off dead at highway speed leaving me coasting to a stop, never to start again. I was told that a seal had gone leading to the
failure. GM charged over $1200.00 for the opti and the job was about
$2000.00 total. That was a couple of years ago when I was totally
ignorant of them available at the prices you guys are talking about and
of course being in Canada adds to the price.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 1
From: Merritt Island Florida
Confused!!!
Man! I am so confused. I'm just not sure my opti is bad. Yesterday, my Vette was heat soaked in a hot garage. So I decided to try to start it up. It pop'd and ran extremely rough and would cut off after about 15 to 30 seconds of running.
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
I wash my engine with a hose and never have OPTI problem. Just don't hit it with a high pressure stream (same a conventional diff)
The electric water pump is a PROVEN performance increase.... the pump runs one speed its designed to be efficient at that speed. I agree that the factory pump will spin faster at high rpm however, that does not mean it will move more water than the electric pump at high rpms. Since the factory pump has a wide rpm range it may cavitate at high rpm and just waste HP without moving water.
...and the EWP really shines when you're sitting in traffic on a 100* day in a modified LTX with head/cam/headers and a big honking stall TC (known to make some heat) and you're sitting in the cabin at about 68 degrees because the AC is kicking and engine is not overheating.
The electric water pump is a PROVEN performance increase.... the pump runs one speed its designed to be efficient at that speed. I agree that the factory pump will spin faster at high rpm however, that does not mean it will move more water than the electric pump at high rpms. Since the factory pump has a wide rpm range it may cavitate at high rpm and just waste HP without moving water.
...and the EWP really shines when you're sitting in traffic on a 100* day in a modified LTX with head/cam/headers and a big honking stall TC (known to make some heat) and you're sitting in the cabin at about 68 degrees because the AC is kicking and engine is not overheating.
Factory engineers do not design and approve water pumps that cavitate. Stock pump will not cavitate at any engine speed you are able to produce with your LT-1. The only thing that prevents boiling water and creating steam pockets in the heads in a running engine is pressure. Engine driven pump will produce about 25psi pressure at high RPM which is in addition to closed cooling system pressure. This is the pressure in the heads which is what you need. No electric pump can do this. Electric pumps are probably OK for mild street use or for cooling a drag engine between rounds. If you have a street hotrod then OK, if you have a nice original car avoid them.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: AH Illinois
Here is a picture of mine that I replaced about 2 weeks ago.
I was filled with oil due to a bad timing cover seal, I bought the 95-96 MSD unit (My car is 93, but I have 95-96 cam and timing cover), and I was very impressed by the build quality.
As far as symtoms, my car was doing all sorts of weird things. It would start to miss, wouldn't start, threw all sorts of codes. Trust me, buy the MSD unit and your headaches will be relieved. I just drove up to Chicago for The Bloomington Gold Show without a glitch.
On top of that, I changed the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, coil, ICM, and the O2 sensors. Save yourself some money and buy the Opti.
I was filled with oil due to a bad timing cover seal, I bought the 95-96 MSD unit (My car is 93, but I have 95-96 cam and timing cover), and I was very impressed by the build quality.
As far as symtoms, my car was doing all sorts of weird things. It would start to miss, wouldn't start, threw all sorts of codes. Trust me, buy the MSD unit and your headaches will be relieved. I just drove up to Chicago for The Bloomington Gold Show without a glitch.
On top of that, I changed the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, coil, ICM, and the O2 sensors. Save yourself some money and buy the Opti.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
Qualified by the inclusion of "if". I think I paid 150 when I decided to change mine for the heck of it. Turned out it didn't need one but thought I would pull it and take it apart for a look anyway cause everybody here is always bichen about em.
Last edited by Greg Gore; Jun 18, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 246
Likes: 18
From: Menlo Park CA
Man! I am so confused. I'm just not sure my opti is bad. Yesterday, my Vette was heat soaked in a hot garage. So I decided to try to start it up. It pop'd and ran extremely rough and would cut off after about 15 to 30 seconds of running.
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
Wilsonbh, I'll be interested to see if replacing the opti fixes your probelm.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 246
Likes: 18
From: Menlo Park CA
Man! I am so confused. I'm just not sure my opti is bad. Yesterday, my Vette was heat soaked in a hot garage. So I decided to try to start it up. It pop'd and ran extremely rough and would cut off after about 15 to 30 seconds of running.
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
This morning, my garage was a cool 65 degrees so I decided to try to start the car again before the days heat arrived. The car started up smoothly and ran like a charm. Seems like if the optispark was bad, wouldn't it run rough all the time instead of only when it's hot?
I hate to buy a $500+ optispark if the car doesn't need it. It has 65K miles.
Can someone tell me if this sounds like the optispark? Yes, the codes say it's the opti but I've read that other things can throw these codes.
Billy
Wilsonbh, I'll be interested to see if replacing the opti fixes your probelm.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 1
From: Merritt Island Florida
I have the exact same symptoms with my 92. Both from your 1st post and from this post. I also have the exact same concern. Is it the opti or not? I just got a quote from my mechanic for $2200! This would include a new water pump, MSD opti and new MSD wires. I was shocked. If we have to put a new Opti in, show we change out the water pump at the same time. Seems to make sense based on what I was told...you have to remove the water pump to change the opti anyway.
Wilsonbh, I'll be interested to see if replacing the opti fixes your probelm.
Wilsonbh, I'll be interested to see if replacing the opti fixes your probelm.
I've studied how to change this thing and it looks like a days worth of work for me to do but it's not rocket science. I'm going to take the plunge and change it out. Will go with a MSD but would prefer the Dynaspark. However, the Dynaspark people have been putting me off for 2 months now with "We're going to get inventory soon..." comment. I have lost faith in them. I'll post my results here. Should be in the next week or so.
The gunshot you will hear is if this doesn't fix my problem...
Billy
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
You wont be dissapointed with the MSD mate, its a quality piece.
Whether or not it will fix this issue remains to be seen, and i guess time will tell.
Water pump removal is pretty simple, remove both your knock sensors to drain the coolant from the block first though, or it will **** out of the bottom of the pump when you go to remove it. That should see you about an hour into the job by the time youve got the pump off, as long as you have the tools for the job.
Whether or not it will fix this issue remains to be seen, and i guess time will tell.
Water pump removal is pretty simple, remove both your knock sensors to drain the coolant from the block first though, or it will **** out of the bottom of the pump when you go to remove it. That should see you about an hour into the job by the time youve got the pump off, as long as you have the tools for the job.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
Dynaspark people have been putting me off for 2 months now with "We're going to get inventory soon..."
If they are this difficult to believe before the sale, how could you trust them to be of any help if you had service issues? No thanks, I don't care how good they are.
If they are this difficult to believe before the sale, how could you trust them to be of any help if you had service issues? No thanks, I don't care how good they are.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,620
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
There’s no one test or measurement that will give you 100% confidence that the opti is defective. Unfortunately optis have a wide variety of symtoms and no one person has seen them all. I have seen a shop diagnose a problem with a scope and be correct on the opti, but they just could have had some good luck that day on their call out.
Although changing the ICM is simple and quick, looking at the engine will not make it run. You need to start somewhere and change something. If you replace the opti, at least you will know you have a new one in there and wont have to mess with it for a good while. If the car runs, then great, if it doesn’t, then you have at least eliminated one major item. If you change the opti, change the wires also because its easiest then. Also get new seals for the water pump and opti shafts (its your only simple shot to change them).
Changing the opti is not rocket science and will take you some time. The biggest problem probably is getting the balancer off. Some come off easy, some don’t. (Mine did not come off till the second day, it was almost like it was welded on). After removal, get the rust off and lube, will not ever be a problem again. *Balancer needs to be installed back in the same position on the hub (hub stay on) as it was taken off. I marked with red paint from the rear before removal. Paint bolt hole tab and edge of balancer.
Aligning the opti on the notched shaft is quite easy but where most mistakes are made. Rotate engine to get notch at top for easy viewing. Align opti correctly, and slide on gently, should almost fall on the timing cover and be flush. Only then put the bolts in. Start engine to make sure it runs before installing water pump. A minute is all you need to make sure opti shaft is aligned and all is good.
There’s more info and questions, best of luck.
Although changing the ICM is simple and quick, looking at the engine will not make it run. You need to start somewhere and change something. If you replace the opti, at least you will know you have a new one in there and wont have to mess with it for a good while. If the car runs, then great, if it doesn’t, then you have at least eliminated one major item. If you change the opti, change the wires also because its easiest then. Also get new seals for the water pump and opti shafts (its your only simple shot to change them).
Changing the opti is not rocket science and will take you some time. The biggest problem probably is getting the balancer off. Some come off easy, some don’t. (Mine did not come off till the second day, it was almost like it was welded on). After removal, get the rust off and lube, will not ever be a problem again. *Balancer needs to be installed back in the same position on the hub (hub stay on) as it was taken off. I marked with red paint from the rear before removal. Paint bolt hole tab and edge of balancer.
Aligning the opti on the notched shaft is quite easy but where most mistakes are made. Rotate engine to get notch at top for easy viewing. Align opti correctly, and slide on gently, should almost fall on the timing cover and be flush. Only then put the bolts in. Start engine to make sure it runs before installing water pump. A minute is all you need to make sure opti shaft is aligned and all is good.
There’s more info and questions, best of luck.
Last edited by pcolt94; Jun 20, 2007 at 12:36 PM.