extending oxygen sensor wire
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
extending oxygen sensor wire
I am putting my sensors in the collector of my long tube headers is there any special wire to use to extend them? they are on a 93 with non heated single wire sensors
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
You might want to get the three wire heated O2 sensors with the long tubes due to open loop idling. I have a spare engine wiring harness from a salvage yard, that I use if I need extra wires. I suppose a 14-16 ga. wire will work. Just make sure the connection used is real good. Twist, solder, heat shrink.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,283
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
You might want to get the three wire heated O2 sensors with the long tubes due to open loop idling. I have a spare engine wiring harness from a salvage yard, that I use if I need extra wires. I suppose a 14-16 ga. wire will work. Just make sure the connection used is real good. Twist, solder, heat shrink.
Even in our warm climate you will find you car going open loop at idle. 3 wire is the way to go.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
You might want to get the three wire heated O2 sensors with the long tubes due to open loop idling. I have a spare engine wiring harness from a salvage yard, that I use if I need extra wires. I suppose a 14-16 ga. wire will work. Just make sure the connection used is real good. Twist, solder, heat shrink.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
They just usually won't get hot enough to go into closed loop (or stay in closed loop), especially w/ceramic coated headers. Have bungs welded at approximately a 9 o'clock postion so they won't collect moisture and still be able to be removed. I have used bosch and delco's w/out problems.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
They just usually won't get hot enough to go into closed loop (or stay in closed loop), especially w/ceramic coated headers. Have bungs welded at approximately a 9 o'clock postion so they won't collect moisture and still be able to be removed. I have used bosch and delco's w/out problems.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Any source of switched power will be fine, I believe I used the AIR for power since it is no longer on the car. The sensor draws very lttle amps and you only want it to see power w/key "on".
The bosch number I have here is 13077. I used this one because I already had a 3 wire weather pack (pig tail)for the other side. If I remember there were a couple of places that sold it as a kit (pig tail and sensor), just been awile so I don't recall who it was, but I remember it being around 70.ish (sensor alone is about 48.)
The bosch number I have here is 13077. I used this one because I already had a 3 wire weather pack (pig tail)for the other side. If I remember there were a couple of places that sold it as a kit (pig tail and sensor), just been awile so I don't recall who it was, but I remember it being around 70.ish (sensor alone is about 48.)
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
got those today do you just ground the other side of the heater circut? or do you use some type of controller/ relay? on an oem system both heater wires go back to the ecm. has anyone had a problem leving 12 volts applied at all times while running? seems like it would be hard on the heater
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
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From: Louisiana
The ECM wire connect the same as the original O2. The 12v wire will need to be spliced into a switched 12v source. There are a few different spots this can be done. I also used a 10 amp fuse inline, though I don't think is needed. You don't want to splice into a always 12v wire....it will run the battery down for one. The ground wire need to be grounded, usually within 1 ft of the O2.
Make sure to test these wires after your finished, with a VOM. You want know if it's working other than the Field Service Mode or by scanner.
Make sure to test these wires after your finished, with a VOM. You want know if it's working other than the Field Service Mode or by scanner.
Last edited by RRT vette; Aug 30, 2007 at 05:38 PM. Reason: correcting info.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
On the switched 12V source: I once installed a heated 02 on my 86 and picked up the switched 12V source using the windshield wiper harness.
I found that when the wipers were operating in intermittent mode, the voltage from that source dropped, lessening 12V to the 02, so the 02, again, dropped out of Closed Loop at idle. I found this by monitoring Diacom.
I swapped the 12V source connection to one of the relay wires (forgot which one it serves) mounted on the driver's side inner fender and all was well again.
Bottom line: I'd stay away from choosing the windshield wiper harness as a switched 12V source.
Hope this helps.
Jake
I found that when the wipers were operating in intermittent mode, the voltage from that source dropped, lessening 12V to the 02, so the 02, again, dropped out of Closed Loop at idle. I found this by monitoring Diacom.
I swapped the 12V source connection to one of the relay wires (forgot which one it serves) mounted on the driver's side inner fender and all was well again.
Bottom line: I'd stay away from choosing the windshield wiper harness as a switched 12V source.
Hope this helps.
Jake
