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Hey guys, great site, just got our first Vette, a 89. Guy was straight up honest when selling, the car randomly and instantly cuts out, generally at idle.
He has replaced, fuel pump,filter,injectors,ecm, battery,alternator.
I did some searching on here, and thought perhaps the vats1 was/is acting up so we bought a new key. Car ran flawless for a week, but now the issue is back.
Heres the odd part, when it dies and wont fire, pop open the clamps at the throttle body, spray a bit of starting fluid up there, close it up, and over she fires????? HUH???
I dont have the manual yet, and have not pulled any codes nor currently have the means, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn
Hey guys, great site, just got our first Vette, a 89. Guy was straight up honest when selling, the car randomly and instantly cuts out, generally at idle.
He has replaced, fuel pump,filter,injectors,ecm, battery,alternator.
I did some searching on here, and thought perhaps the vats1 was/is acting up so we bought a new key. Car ran flawless for a week, but now the issue is back.
Heres the odd part, when it dies and wont fire, pop open the clamps at the throttle body, spray a bit of starting fluid up there, close it up, and over she fires????? HUH???
I dont have the manual yet, and have not pulled any codes nor currently have the means, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn
......if the vats were "out" the car wouldn't crank although it does affect fuel delivery......you need to 1)..get a HELMS SERVICE MANUAL if you intend on keeping the car...2)...get a fuel pressure tester to determine fuel pressure when using some diagnostics.....this has some of the earmarks of being a fuel delivery problem....
....pulling the codes can be done with a paper clip at the aldl...do that and get back to the forum with the results....
You don't make it clear if spraying starter fluid allows the engine to start and run continuously. If it starts and runs until the starter fluid is gone, then you clearly have a fuel delivery problem. If it cranks, you don't have a VATS problem! If you can crank it and it won't start, then use your timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail to see if you have 40 psi and that the pressure doesn't drop rapidly with the ign off (leaky injectors). Buy a noid light or use a low powered 12v lamp like a side marker lamp and unplug an injector and connect the lamp across the injector plug and see if it pulses during cranking to see if the injectors are being pulsed. You can connect a paper clip across the top right two pins on the ALDL socket with the ign in run and the service engine light will flash 12 12 12 (that is, flash.........flash flash) followed by any stored codes.
You don't make it clear if spraying starter fluid allows the engine to start and run continuously. If it starts and runs until the starter fluid is gone, then you clearly have a fuel delivery problem. If it cranks, you don't have a VATS problem! If you can crank it and it won't start, then use your timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail to see if you have 40 psi and that the pressure doesn't drop rapidly with the ign off (leaky injectors). Buy a noid light or use a low powered 12v lamp like a side marker lamp and unplug an injector and connect the lamp across the injector plug and see if it pulses during cranking to see if the injectors are being pulsed. You can connect a paper clip across the top right two pins on the ALDL socket with the ign in run and the service engine light will flash 12 12 12 (that is, flash.........flash flash) followed by any stored codes.
.........thanks as i couldn't remember which pins to short...
.....if the fuel pump relay had a problem, the oil pressure switch would have "bypassed" it anyway.....
When my 86 had a similar problem, I had the same impression from studying my FSM, that the oil pressure switch would/should keep the car/FP running? It would not, under certain circumstances( e.g.- at low/idle speeds, or when coasting down to a stop). My problem then was definitely a bad or corroded FP relay. Putting a new relay in banished the problem immediately, and so far(3 years!) permanently.
When my 86 had a similar problem, I had the same impression from studying my FSM, that the oil pressure switch would/should keep the car/FP running? It would not, under certain circumstances( e.g.- at low/idle speeds, or when coasting down to a stop). My problem then was definitely a bad or corroded FP relay. Putting a new relay in banished the problem immediately, and so far(3 years!) permanently.
.......you better get an authentic helms manual then! ..the oil pressure switch "kicks in" at 4lbs and that is attainable while cranking and at any speed that the engine is running....if the poster wants to change out the fp relay after checking the fuses, that's cool too.....
Oh I agree - that is what my Helms/FSM manual says/said! But be that as it may, my trouble was definitely the FP RELAY! Even my Chev Dealership said the same thing, and when I asked the mechanic there about the seeming disconnect with what the Helms says about this - he had no explanation? Btw, nothing else(besides the new Relay) was done - and no codes either!? I am not suggesting this is a cure all, but from my experience for similar(mysterious?) issues, it is worth checking out, despite what HELMS says. Ciao!
Last edited by Can86Z51; Sep 23, 2007 at 08:40 AM.
Reason: missing word
If the oil pressure switch is bad, he is relying on the relay. If that has intermittent problems, than he could have the problems he is having.
Take a look at the relay's connector. My wire insulation shrunk back an inch on all wires, allowing a good chance for shorts and intermittent operation. You may be experiencing this.
If the oil pressure switch is bad, he is relying on the relay. If that has intermittent problems, than he could have the problems he is having.
Take a look at the relay's connector. My wire insulation shrunk back an inch on all wires, allowing a good chance for shorts and intermittent operation. You may be experiencing this.
Thank you, Agent 86! When my problems with this started(3 years ago), I initially suspected the FP Relay! But when I consulted the HELMS manual, the redundant oil pressure switch-FP Relay item in the HELMS 'seemed' to rule this(-bad Relay) out? So I took it to my Chev Dealership, where they confirmed that indeed the FP Relay was the source of the troubles!? No trouble since FP Relay was changed. Agent 86, if as you seem to suggest(?) the oil pressure Switch in this circuit was/is faulty as well - are there any other symptoms of this(O.P. Switch fault), and how can I diagnose/check this O.P.Switch on its own? Or would the properly operating F.P.Relay mask/cover up any issue with the O.P. Switch. And if so, is it worth it to replace the O.P.Switch on its own? Thanks!
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
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Originally Posted by Da Mail Man
.....if the fuel pump relay had a problem, the oil pressure switch would have "bypassed" it anyway.....
Not necessarliy. My 86 has a functional (tested) oil pressure switch bypass circuit. Yet would occasionally not start. Replacing the FP relay resolved the problem permanently.
Thanks guys, ordered the Helms today (ouch!). Yes, when needed, the starting fluid starts and keeps the motor going. Will try the relay first, havent even looked for it yet. Also heard Igntion module could be bad as well. Only code is the "normal" 12 12 12 nothing else shows up. Will keep you up to date. Thanks for all the fast replies, Shawn
Last edited by sknight88; Sep 23, 2007 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: spelling!
Thanks guys, ordered the Helms today (ouch!). Yes, when needed, the starting fluid starts and keeps the motor going. Will try the relay first, havent even looked for it yet. Also heard Igntion module could be bad as well. Only code is the "normal" 12 12 12 nothing else shows up. Will keep you up to date. Thanks for all the fast replies, Shawn
***there is a way to activate the fuel pump by running a 12vdc+ wire to a pin in the aldl......i will look for it now if someone doesn't beat me to the info........this fuction bypasses everything.... ***EDIT..run 12vdc to terminal g on the aldl....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Sep 23, 2007 at 08:04 PM.
ok, I dont have manual in hand yet, so which one is the "G" pin? No ground needed, just a test lead from a 12v source into g. Will try it, just need to know where "G" is!
ok, I dont have manual in hand yet, so which one is the "G" pin? No ground needed, just a test lead from a 12v source into g. Will try it, just need to know where "G" is!
.....ya mean you don't own a manual, right?
......lower left of/on aldl.........goodnight, goodluck...
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Sep 23, 2007 at 10:42 PM.
Reason: additional...