My is not a garage queen I enjoy driving it
Well like I said I have checked it out every things is tight but i will go over it again once i get in there I know U-joints are cheap and good insurance to replace if they are questionable. Thanks

 

I agree. The word is yoke, not yolk.

 

can i use antisieze on the splines and washer or should I leave the washer dry and let the teflon do it's thing and use regular ( I'm cheap) axle grease for the splines after I wire brush and wd 40 them clean

 

I was going to do this on my 87 over the weekend are you sure the torx is a T55? I was not able to get that size to fit to large and the T50 I have was to small. Can some one confirm the size. Thanks

 

T55 it is. I did both rears this spring, and no washers. Now I'm going to break out that T55 and a couple of extensions and take it all apart to put the washers on. Like the other guy said - why didn't they include the washers in the hub assembly?? At $200+ per side they couldn't afford it?

 

It worked for me. I put new hubs in months ago, before reading this thread, and there weren't no washers in there then, so I didn't put any in. Then I heard the clicking noise. $8.00 per washer and a few hours of labor later, I have quiet hubs.
Thanks to all who posted to this thread. This has cut by 50% the extraneous noises that my 93 convertible makes.

 

Just want to thank everyone who participated in this thread in the past. I was having the same clicking noise from my left rear (the car's left reat that is), saw this thread, ordered the washers and had them installed this morning at Loud Pedal Motorsports in Tempe, AZ. In the process of the installation they found that my car was missing the washers altogether on both sides. Whoever installed my U-joints on both sides apparently forgot to install the washers. In any event, the washers solved the problem completely and for very little cost. Thanks again!

 

I just received my washers today and am getting ready to install them. I'm a little confused on which way the lip goes though. Any thoughts?? Thanks

 

If you look at the assy drawing in post #7 there is a note pointing to the washer telling you how to install the washer.

 

Those three torx bolts are a bitch to get to. Otherwise, a very straight forward process. Thanks!

 

I am glad this is still helping folks out. It is a silly little part but if they are not there it is annoying.

Enjoy your car.

 

Quickcat and all fellow CF member,

Great thread, first class, best information. I too have this click noise. This sounds like my winter project.
1. collect correct parts, supplies
2. get knowledgeable (Thanks Guys)

Quickcat, Thanks Again

 

I know this is an old thread, all apologies. Has anyone done this job?

I am in the middle of it, as I need to install new rotors anyway and figured I may as well cure my clicking.

I have the 36mm hub bolt off as well as 1 of the 3 T55 Torx bolts. Is there a way to turn the axle so that I can access the other 2 torx bolts? Must both rear tires be in the air?

If I could turn the spindle, I could access all 3 torx, if I can't I think I am gong to put it all back together and live with the click~

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

 

Jeff,

Must both rear tires be in the air?

I do bleive you have to have both wheels up inorder to rotate the axle and remove the T-bolts. I don't know your capabilities, but you might lift both, jack stand, rotate to expose the next bolt, then set the park brake tight. One CF member stated he did it wuing the park brake. GLW install.
Boxcar

 

Well the job is completed! Phew! I do not want to do that again. I found out that yes, both rear wheels need to be in the air for the half shaft to rotate so that you can access all 3 torx bolts.

Things I discovered while doing this job that may be helpful.

Impact Wrenches are worth their weight in gold. I purchased an electric Kobalt impact wrench from Lowes for $159 and I don't know how I could have done this job without it. It made short work of the 36mm hub nut.

My washer actually looked ok, I replaced it anyway and the dreaded clicking is gone! So happy about that.

You really don't have to take anything off other than the rotor and the caliper. I didn't drop anything else. There were times while taking the 3 torx bolts out that I could only move the rachet 1" either way, making it a slow process but I stuck with it and they eventually came out.

Don't use a 1/2" extension as it is too large and blocks your view of the torx head, 3/8" is fine.

A 6" 3/8 extension was just about perfect. 5" was too short, 10" was too long.

I only did one side, and it cured the clicking. I hope the other side doesn't start clicking as I don't want to do this job again.

Thanks to all those who posted before me. I know this thread is old but information is timeless, so thanks again!

Jeff

 

Here I am in April 2014. I was coming home from the AutoFair at Charlotte and I started hearing the clicking noise. I thought it was part of the brake system or something was coming apart. Maybe a u-joint letting loose. I pulled over and found nothing unusual. So, I drove home. The noise only seemed to happened when I'd start up from a stop light and slow turns to the left. I did a lot of auto-cross driving several years ago and had to replace the rear bearings. I remember the washer but reused the ones in there. So, I jacked up the rear and took off the driver's side wheel and started my investigation. I couldn't find anything wrong, except a light click when turning the rotor. It felt like it was from inside the wheel bearing, but I really couldn't be sure. Now that I've read this thread, I will replace these washers. Whenever I heard this similar sound in my 57 chevy (some forty years ago) it was the u-joints. But I'll do the washers first before replacing 60K miles old u-joints. BTW, there weren't very many C4s at the auto fair.

 

Excellent write up - I have a noise coming the rear end of my '96 CE Coupe too, but not sure if this is the problem. It is kind of a knocking soon when I go over a rough road, more knock/low rattle than squeal and not centered like a driveshaft U joint problem. Maybe something else??

 

I cannot find these washers, ANYWHERE..... Any ideas? I ordered through Corvette Central but they had a 7 day lead time, what are the chances I actually get them?

 

I was able to pick up these washers from the Chevrolet Dealer. Then, the fun begins!

Good luck, it's worth it!

 

You will get them, but it may take more than 7 days.