Well, I just found out what the scraping noise in my left rear wheel area was. Replaced my rear rotors (well was about to, I just got the wrong rotors so I am waiting for the right ones) and noticed that the bolts wich hold the calipers to the hub are in fact a little to long, they come very close to the rotor when mounted. So when the rotors wear you get a small (c)rusty edge on the in and outside, this rusty edge scraped on the threaded ends of the bolts. I discovered this when I was about to put the caliper back on. When I looked at the bolts I saw they were shiny on the threaded side and thought, yes that´s my scraping sound. Something else here is that the washers between bolt and hub were also scraped of a little bit so either you put on new ones wich are thicker or what I had to do put an extra washer. The caliper stays in the same spot anyway. The only thing that happens is that the bolts don´t go through the "mounting rings" on the hub as much. Or you shorten the bolts with a millimeter or two three, but that´s more work.

Might be a tip for those who haven´t found the "cause" of their "rear sound" yet.

Became a long one but you get the picture I guess. Would have been easier for me to write this in Swedish or Dutch but you guys probably would start throwing funny faces then.

 

<LOL> I can relate to that...

 

Broken LTPWS sensor rattling around. Add that to the list of things that "go clunk in the night".

 

I just picked up the teflon washers and I also bought the washers that go under the axel nut. I also have new rear hubs (Corvette Salvage) and u joints. I'll probably take Friday off and rebuild my rear with the 4 day weekend. Thanks to this thread and the FSM I have a plan of attack.

Larry

 

everyone helping each other out, its great finding our problems when they bug the hell out of us..thanks guys my car is quiet as can be, no clicks !

 

There are 2 types of C4 Corvettes
Those that click from the spindle and those that will

I actually got a letter printed in Corvette Magazine June of last year about this

It is a wear item and in response to the earlier post they should be lightly greased

 

I am having this clicking problem and just finished replacing the washers, a little grease on the splines, nut torqued to 180 and it's still there. Just finished a ten mile test drive and at first, I thought it was gone. The frequency may have lessened slightly, but it's still there.

It is not a single click or thunk. It is a series of several clinks while driving slow as in a parking lot or even with very light braking. The test included a quiet street with a slight down grade where at about 5mph, I slipped the 4+3 into neutral as it was clicking. No change.

Two years and less than 5,000 miles ago I replaced the rear wheel bearings. The wheels visibly appeared to have a lot of extra negative camber and the rear had a loose wobble as though both tires were down. I replaced all bushings with Energy Suspension. Replaced all 1/2 shaft U=joints. Pulled the rear to replace bat wing bushings, because I wanted to replace the cover gasket and side hub seals. I didn't replace the drive shaft U-joints. I hadn't ordered them, they felt good and the needles in the two caps looked perfect.

6-8 months ago this clicking started and got worse this last month. I pulled the drive shaft and the U-joints still looked good, but I replaced them anyway.

I should have mentioned that I'm talking about a '87 4+3 coupe.

The old washers did show, what could be called wear, but the new ones didn't change much if anything.

I heard what I think is a clue when I was putting it back together. I had pulled the E brake on, in order to tighten the axle nut. I put the wheel on and was tightening it up by hand. I heard a clink similar to my problem clinking. I occured to me that I had pulled the E brake on with the disc rotor a little away from the flange. I released the E brake and continued tightening by hand with my knee against the tire. I heard it again.
The two year old U joints still feel tight. I can't feel any axle play by pulling on the wheel. Even if they were bad, I shouldn't hear a noise from them while tightening the wheel and it not turning.

Where ever it is coming from, I think the brake dust shield is amplifying the noise like a speaker cone.

Any ideas?

As the book suggests. I had the front up and there is no rolling noise and the bearings feel tight.

 

TTT

I thought there might be something in this thread that could help "Eric1994" with his question about his clicking problem and I'm hoping someone will reread and give me some other ideas on where and how to check.
Thanks

 

Dodged a bullet. I never heard a peep on here about the washers until I had already reused the old ones, even with tons of searching for hints on replacing hubs. So far it hasn't been a problem, but they'll get replaced at the next opportunity.

I linked it in his thread already. He should be good to go.

 

Thanks for all the information. Washers are cheap and it looks real easy to install them. I'll stop at the local Chevy Dealer and see if he has them or can order them for me.
Thanks Again

 

My 88 has several "clunking" sounds when I start out to drive coming from the driver's rear. It is fairly loud and definitely not a "clicking" sound. The sound always disappears when the car get's up to speed but my reappear anytime after slowing or stopping.

I though it was a loose caliper back there; I've had that sound on other cars. Applying the emergency brake doesn't stop it so I don't think it's the caliper.

My question, is the "clicking" sound discussed in this thread really a click or is it louder and more solid like a clunking sound?

The car has about 100K on it.

 

Thanks for the part # for the washers as it made it quick and easy when ordering from the dealer, for those of you who missed the part # it is #14076924 and no they didn't have them in stock! they are about a week out!

 

This post helped me fix my clunking . It looked like I had a new wheel bearing on the right rear and when I checked for the washers I didn't have one on that side! I replaced both washers and now no clunking!

 

Hard to believe it was over two years ago I posted this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&postcount=29

 

I'll be installing my washers tomorrow (driver side had a washer and no clicks; passenger side had no washers but plenty of clicks) and checking back with this great thread has left me confused.

The pictures in the thread from the FSM says "Flat portion of washer should be firmly seated against shoulder of bearing dia. (yoke spindle asm) and lip of washer (outbound) facing splines (yoke spindle asm) prior to assembly of drive shaft and spindle asm into bearing and hub asm."

When I disassembled the driver side I found the washer was mounted with the raised surface (I assume what is called the "lip" above) against what I assume is the spindle shoulder (you can see the marks on the enclosed picture) and that seems backwards of FSM instructions which I take to mean the raised surface ought to be toward the hub/bearing or "outbound".

Would someone help me out please.

Many thanks!

 

look what I found, for my clicking!

 

I'm getting ready to replace the washers slight clicking drivers side, what is the best lubricant to use on this project durning reassembly. Also any thing else I should look for when I'm in there. I have checked the U-joints seem ok and no play in the wheel from the bearing. Looks like a straight forward job just want to be sure I have every thing covered.

 

I used white moly grease, (Lubriplate) any good assembly type lube is a good choice.

 

Thanks, my washers should be in Tuesday it's been clicking for a while just on left turns & off line hard acceleration seems to be getting a little worse so I thought do it now.

 

If it were me, depending on the mileage, I would do the U-joints also. (Spicer sealed) I'd hate to get everything back together and still have the clicking or find out after pulling it apart they are shot. Mines a daily drive though so it may not be an issue for you.