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I currently have Comp Cams pro magnum 1.6 roller rocker arms (1318-16), chromemoly 7.200 pushrods (7940-16) & a Crane Cams valve spring kit (10308-1) installed in my car.
I would now like to add a Comp Cams (XFI 07-466-8)camshaft, please advise if I need to change the hydraulic lifters (08-1001) as well, there is also an installation kit (08-1001) available.
I appreciate I will have to get the computer modified to match this setup, would you advise replacing the timing chain while completing this work, the car has only covered 10,000 miles from new.
I am also considering changing to an electric water pump, please advise if you can purchase a timing chain cover without the water pump hole as I would like to retain the original.
I live in the UK and would appreciate your help on these modifications or if you have any other information or recommendations, thanks.
Make sure the valve springs will support the lift of the camshaft. I can't tell from just part numbers. Also you can reuse your stock timing chain and lifters. It just depends on how hard you are going to run the car.
No, you can't buy a timing chain cover without a WP hole. You will have to plug it yourself.
At 10k miles you won't need to change the lifters. But if you want a more reliable lifter then go with the LS7 lifters. They are a cheap upgrade and work very well. You can change the timing set to a roller chain such as the stock LT4 setup or you can go with the GM LT4 extreme set.
As far as I know you can't get the timing cover w/o the waterpump drive hole.
See if you can find a freeze plug to fit, and then seal it on with a non-premanent sealant.
I left my drive in when I did mine, it leaks a little but not too bad.
The water pump drive shaft is supported on the back end by the ball-bearing mounted in the block inside the timing cover.
And, normally, the water pump drive shaft is supported on the front end through the water pump coupling on the water pump bearing.
So, without the original water pump and coupling, I would be concerned about the support of the water pump drive shaft -- I wouldn't think the seal would be up to supporting the front of the shaft properly.
FYI: That freeze plug is for the waterpump housing, not the hole in the timing cover.
So a quarter and some JB weld would be the best method or is there a plug that is sold for this?
p.s. Have not installed the EWP yet. I'm collecting the parts. I'm going to do the cam, Meziere, MSD opti, 1.6rr, springs, and ATI 6.75 super damper at the same time with an updated tune. I'm hoping for another 50rwhp NA.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Dec 3, 2007 at 01:14 PM.
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Sebring,
If you go with an EWP, just press the gear off the water pump drive shaft and keep the shaft and bearing in place to seal the timing cover hole. This will allow you to reuse the cover later if you should decide to go back to the stock mechanical drive. Just don't ever leave the gear on the shaft freewheeling with no load on it. It can chafe and galled the gear teeth,cause possible bearing failure by being unsupported in the front, and possibly break teeth off. Also, the potential gear chatter noise caused by unloaded gears when accelerating and decelerating could possibly be picked up by knock sensors. Did this mod on a couple of engines with good results. Good luck
Rick
At 10k miles you won't need to change the lifters. But if you want a more reliable lifter then go with the LS7 lifters. They are a cheap upgrade and work very well. You can change the timing set to a roller chain such as the stock LT4 setup or you can go with the GM LT4 extreme set.
At 10K miles I'd reuse the lifters and the timing chain.
Are the LS7 lifters really an upgrade or are they the same? I've seen it said both ways, I think the general consensus is they are the same, not an upgrade. Anyone know for sure?