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LT-1 with LT-4 Heads; RR; double springs; 7/16 Rocker studs
So the ideal length pushrod for my setup (as far as roller against valve tip is concerned) causes the rockers to slightly rub against the base of the rocker studs. This may explain why the original pushrods seemed too long; the builder may have just been a little lazy?
Any guidance from the gurus out there; should I grind .150" from the base of each stud or take the same from the base of each rocker arm?
Any other bright ideas?
Oh - and I have measured it about 4 times using checking pushrods and valve check springs - and I have been careful not to preload the lifters for the measurements.
LT-1 with LT-4 Heads; RR; double springs; 7/16 Rocker studs
So the ideal length pushrod for my setup (as far as roller against valve tip is concerned) causes the rockers to slightly rub against the base of the rocker studs. This may explain why the original pushrods seemed too long; the builder may have just been a little lazy?
Any guidance from the gurus out there; should I grind .150" from the base of each stud or take the same from the base of each rocker arm?
Any other bright ideas?
Oh - and I have measured it about 4 times using checking pushrods and valve check springs - and I have been careful not to preload the lifters for the measurements.
Thanks!
I'm not a guru, so if nothing else at least my post brings this thread to the top again for you. I think you need to have that much or a little more machined off of the head where the stud seats, or you have to run taller valves and the longer pushrods. Don't do anything on my word, research it farther and wait for the experts to post as I'm working off of memory here from a friend that had a similar problem like 15 years ago, and my memory is not that good. I think I remember him going with longer stemmed valves since he needed new valves anyway, then he had to play with the springs and such to get the right seat pressures. Again, long time ago.
Thanks for the reply - I would hate to change the valves and springs because the head has just been reconditioned, the valves re-seated and all is looking good. I will consider it if I have to!
I really hope some others chime in here. There may be other rockers that will work, then you could sell your old ones. I would be scared to grind anything off the rockers as they might then be prone to breakage. There may be different studs available. I'm wondering if you could put a 3/8" stud and roller rocker on there and see if it still hits or not. Maybe more work needed done to run the 7/16". I feel sure there are more options, although I don't know them.
join camaroz28.com and post it there. That forum is an almost exact layout to this one. It has tons of traffic and there seems to be quite a few motor guys there. There are a few guys here that can help too if they read this. JAKE where are you???? Curveit????
This is probvably no help at all in your unique situation - but stock pushrods on LT1 are exactly 7.200 inches in length. Im sure there is a method to compensate for the LT4 heads you have (taller deck height ?) and someone smarter than I am will have the answer - good luck sir !
This is probvably no help at all in your unique situation - but stock pushrods on LT1 are exactly 7.200 inches in length. Im sure there is a method to compensate for the LT4 heads you have (taller deck height ?) and someone smarter than I am will have the answer - good luck sir !
Thanks for the suggestion - my original rods were 7.200 but they were too long (based on the wear pattern on the valve tips). The ideal length for my set up seems to be about 7.000 but at this length the rocker arm sits too low.. :-(
Thanks for the suggestion - my original rods were 7.200 but they were too long (based on the wear pattern on the valve tips). The ideal length for my set up seems to be about 7.000 but at this length the rocker arm sits too low.. :-(
To measure push rod rod length on my motor, I used some gear marking compound left over from a ring and pinion install. I put some on the tip of the valve, installed the rocker and adjusted the valve. With a set of weak checking springs installed, I turned the motor over a couple times and pulled the rocker off. When the over all contact pattern on the tip of the valve was in the center I knew I had the right length push rod. It turned out that I needed a .100 shorter push rod.
I am running the factory LT4 heads, Comp pro Mag rockers with ARP studs and guide plates. My rockers are close to the base of the stud but there is room. How does a 7.100 push rod look in your motor?
I would be scared to grind anything off the rockers as they might then be prone to breakage. There may be different studs available.
Personally I wouldn't be afraid to grind anything off the slot (bottom inside edges around the trunion) of the rocker arms. It will NOT hurt anything to bevel the slot a LITTLE bit to gain clearance for the stud hex. I have done it in the past espc on very big bodied rockers like the Scorpion and early manfacture Erson's. Funny there was a thread on an engine builders web site the other day where Joe Sherman said he often has to grind rockers in this manner for clearance in order to get valve train geomerty "perfect".
The actual problem could be the valve stem height is too low in comparison to your rockerarm stud boss in the head casting. It also could just be that you have the wrong rocker studs. There are a few other ways you could solve this problem.
A machine shop with a Bridge Port or a good seat and guide machine could mill the rocker stud boss's down the correct amount for you to fix the problem.
Also - Yes there are different studs availiable from APR, PEP, SPS and MSA that have varying hex heights.
Will
Personally I wouldn't be afraid to grind anything off the slot (bottom inside edges around the trunion) of the rocker arms. It will NOT hurt anything to bevel the slot a LITTLE bit to gain clearance for the stud hex. I have done it in the past espc on very big bodied rockers like the Scorpion and early manfacture Erson's. Funny there was a thread on an engine builders web site the other day where Joe Sherman said he often has to grind rockers in this manner for clearance in order to get valve train geomerty "perfect".
The actual problem could be the valve stem height is too low in comparison to your rockerarm stud boss in the head casting. It also could just be that you have the wrong rocker studs. There are a few other ways you could solve this problem.
A machine shop with a Bridge Port or a good seat and guide machine could mill the rocker stud boss's down the correct amount for you to fix the problem.
Also - Yes there are different studs availiable from APR, PEP, SPS and MSA that have varying hex heights.
Will
I think I found the answer - your reply was right-on! I spoke with Crane Cams earlier, and between us we figured that whoever had installed guide plates did not properly machine the head to ensure that the rocker stud skirts are low enough - the guide plates lift the stud base by about .200.
I am going to check measure it all again; assuming I only need a slight bevel on the arm slots I will use this technique.
A little too little a little too late but the LT4 rockers are self aligning and need no guide plates. Then you can use any length push rod your heart desires. We ran into this same problem with a buddies 383 build, the rocker wound up extremely close to the stud bases, (thick guide plates) if we had known before hand it would be like that the rocker stud bosses would have been cut down a little to compensate. Or self aligning rockers would have been chosen.
Would it be too late for you to use some self aligning rockers?
LT-1 with LT-4 Heads; RR; double springs; 7/16 Rocker studs
So the ideal length pushrod for my setup (as far as roller against valve tip is concerned) causes the rockers to slightly rub against the base of the rocker studs. This may explain why the original pushrods seemed too long; the builder may have just been a little lazy?
Any guidance from the gurus out there; should I grind .150" from the base of each stud or take the same from the base of each rocker arm?
Any other bright ideas?
Oh - and I have measured it about 4 times using checking pushrods and valve check springs - and I have been careful not to preload the lifters for the measurements.
Thanks!
You should never grind anything..first thing you have to do is buy a adjustable mock up push rod used for finding/setting the proper push rod lengh.use it to set the rocker so the roller tip is centered on the valve stem..rotate the engine over by hand and make sure the roller tip is still centered on the valve stem tip.i always use a touch of gear marking compound or a felt pen on the roller tip and rotate the engine over a few times and check to make sure the tip is centered on the valve stem you will see the marking on the stem if it is centered or not. then measure the adjustable push rod and go buy a set of the same length .the mock up adjustable push rod is cheap .but don't grind or cut a thing get the right length push rods you valve geometry is wrong now .i hope this helps
Last edited by makn u shiver; Dec 1, 2007 at 09:36 AM.
I agree with you that if you already have new valves and springs I would not go with longer valve stems now. If the heads are still off or can be taken off easily I'd have them machined down for guideplates. If not, see if you can get thinner guideplates, I believe I heard of someone making them. Self aligning rockers is also a good suggestion. That is what I'm planning on in 2 weeks when I replace my heads, no guideplates, just self aligning rockers. I actually run them now, Summit narrow body self aligning narrow body rockers (narrow body ones to clear centerbolt valve covers). The last thing I'd do is grind material off the bottom of the rockers or off of the studs, but just because I wouldn't go that route doesn't mean it won't work or hasn't been done before. Sounds like it's possible.
Thanks for all replies and suggestions - lots of opinions here!
I have Crane rockers, not LT-4.. the Cranes are not self-aligning.
I spent a few hours this afternoon checking / measuring / turning the engine / checking and measuring again. I have an adjustable pushrod; and the correct valvetrain geometry has been measured.
I used all the usual techniques; coloring the valve tip; valve check springs; 2 x full rotation of the engine etc etc.
I considered getting thinner guideplates, and also getting different studs.
In the end I removed a very small amount of material from the edges of a rocker 'slot'. It measures up perfectly - so I am going to do this to the other 15.
I'll post pictures of the 'adjusted' rocker tomorrow for comment (and abuse, if necessary).
Just one question... per a previous post how on earth can use use 'any length pushrod you like' with self aligning rockers? Self aligning means side-to-side, not front to back... so the pushrod length is still a critical measurement. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks
Last edited by djxib; Dec 1, 2007 at 05:34 PM.
Reason: Added the fact I have Crane rockers and spelling
You can also use a lash cap that is .080 thick. This will raise the rocker arm up, and then you can remeasure the push rod for the ideal geometry. It is an easy thing to do and does nothing to the reliability of the valve train. The new LS7 Z06 engines uses them on all the intake valves and they run 7000 rpm without issues.
Funny I just had this problem last weekend on my L98 based mini ram 383. I adjusted the the rockers but on the last 1/2 turn of the full turn of pre load the rocker hit the stud base. I took a dial indicator on a magnetic base locked the base on the flat area that runs accross the front of the lifter valley ( the area you run the bead of silicone accross for the intake) set the dial indicator on the top of #1 exhaust rocker ( @tdc) on the push rod side lifted the rocker by hand until the roller on the tip was at the center of the valve stem my measurement was .137 so i got a set of .100 longer push rods and it's dead on the money perfect. Or you could wire your bench grinder backwards which makes it a REDNIRG ( grinder spelled backwards) and grind on .100 to your push tubes just kidding.
Just one question... per a previous post how on earth can use use 'any length pushrod you like' with self aligning rockers? Self aligning means side-to-side, not front to back... so the pushrod length is still a critical measurement. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks
I just meant what ever length they wind up being to have the correct geometry without "cheating" a bit to provide clearance for the stud base.
You can also use a lash cap that is .080 thick. This will raise the rocker arm up, and then you can remeasure the push rod for the ideal geometry. It is an easy thing to do and does nothing to the reliability of the valve train. The new LS7 Z06 engines uses them on all the intake valves and they run 7000 rpm without issues.
Lash Cap - I have not heard of those. Before I place a final pushrod order.. do you have any further information? Thanks!