500 hp from scratch
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,107
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From: RI
500 hp from scratch
Thanks to Chris, Corvettekid, I've got a good foundation to start a 396 from scratch. After I get the 4-bolt block from him in May, I intend on bringing it to a good machine shop but I need to be fluent in "engine linguistics". What should properly be done to the block?
Going with forged 396 crank and pistons. Engine will be N/A so what style piston top should I look for?
What's a good cam/heads combination?
Going with forged 396 crank and pistons. Engine will be N/A so what style piston top should I look for?
What's a good cam/heads combination?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
First it should be cleaned and magnafluxed.
If it checks out good there, then the oil galley should be deburred, and the oil returns opened up.
Then the mains should be line honed (at least checked for straitness), cyls bored and honed (w/a TQ plate preferabally).
Then it will have to be "Mock" assembled and the pan rail/bottom of the cyl "clearanced" for the rods and the deck height checked/block decked to set your piston to head/quench properly.
That covers the machine shop part of it.
As for the pistons - it depends on what heads you buy and what compression ratio you are shooting for. Really small combustion chambers are going to require dish pistons to keep the SCR under control. With bigger combustio chambers you could probally get away with flat tops which are easier on the wallet. I can't get too specific because without knowing 1) your SCR goals 2) your headgasket choice and desired piston to head clearance (quench) 3) actual cyl head specs its impossible to give you real specifics here.
500hp isn't that hard to make these days with a 396 inch motor. Personally I would recommend a set of AFR 210 elims and a camshaft in the mid 230's@.050 and .580-.600lift.
Will
If it checks out good there, then the oil galley should be deburred, and the oil returns opened up.
Then the mains should be line honed (at least checked for straitness), cyls bored and honed (w/a TQ plate preferabally).
Then it will have to be "Mock" assembled and the pan rail/bottom of the cyl "clearanced" for the rods and the deck height checked/block decked to set your piston to head/quench properly.
That covers the machine shop part of it.
As for the pistons - it depends on what heads you buy and what compression ratio you are shooting for. Really small combustion chambers are going to require dish pistons to keep the SCR under control. With bigger combustio chambers you could probally get away with flat tops which are easier on the wallet. I can't get too specific because without knowing 1) your SCR goals 2) your headgasket choice and desired piston to head clearance (quench) 3) actual cyl head specs its impossible to give you real specifics here.
500hp isn't that hard to make these days with a 396 inch motor. Personally I would recommend a set of AFR 210 elims and a camshaft in the mid 230's@.050 and .580-.600lift.
Will
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 0
From: RI
First it should be cleaned and magnafluxed.
If it checks out good there, then the oil galley should be deburred, and the oil returns opened up.
Then the mains should be line honed (at least checked for straitness), cyls bored and honed (w/a TQ plate preferabally).
Then it will have to be "Mock" assembled and the pan rail/bottom of the cyl "clearanced" for the rods and the deck height checked/block decked to set your piston to head/quench properly.
That covers the machine shop part of it.
As for the pistons - it depends on what heads you buy and what compression ratio you are shooting for. Really small combustion chambers are going to require dish pistons to keep the SCR under control. With bigger combustio chambers you could probally get away with flat tops which are easier on the wallet. I can't get too specific because without knowing 1) your SCR goals 2) your headgasket choice and desired piston to head clearance (quench) 3) actual cyl head specs its impossible to give you real specifics here.
500hp isn't that hard to make these days with a 396 inch motor. Personally I would recommend a set of AFR 210 elims and a camshaft in the mid 230's@.050 and .580-.600lift.
Will
If it checks out good there, then the oil galley should be deburred, and the oil returns opened up.
Then the mains should be line honed (at least checked for straitness), cyls bored and honed (w/a TQ plate preferabally).
Then it will have to be "Mock" assembled and the pan rail/bottom of the cyl "clearanced" for the rods and the deck height checked/block decked to set your piston to head/quench properly.
That covers the machine shop part of it.
As for the pistons - it depends on what heads you buy and what compression ratio you are shooting for. Really small combustion chambers are going to require dish pistons to keep the SCR under control. With bigger combustio chambers you could probally get away with flat tops which are easier on the wallet. I can't get too specific because without knowing 1) your SCR goals 2) your headgasket choice and desired piston to head clearance (quench) 3) actual cyl head specs its impossible to give you real specifics here.
500hp isn't that hard to make these days with a 396 inch motor. Personally I would recommend a set of AFR 210 elims and a camshaft in the mid 230's@.050 and .580-.600lift.
Will
Chuck, still only have a 350 and yeah, mike at J&M is still working on it.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Yes any machinest worth his salt is going to want the pistons you use in order to bore the block properly. Same with the rods and crank to clearance and set the deck height.
Will
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,922
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Go to JE/SRP's website and get there -14CC dish piston. It is an SRP piston, forged, but better for street than their JE psiton. Get regular tension rings, shave the heads for a 56-59CC chamber, after porting etc. Use a 52 or 58MM throttle body, 1 3/4 headers (Heated O2 sensors if 93 and older), Lunati 5.85 rods, Callies crank or Lunati 3.875 crank. Then you will need a camshaft from mid 230's to 240 in. dur at .050 and same for ex.
There, 500chp. (Almost like mine)
And tune it via who ever the heck you want, but at least get a good base tune, via PCMforless, my favorite, then dyno/real world data tune it further for fine tuning.
There, 500chp. (Almost like mine)
And tune it via who ever the heck you want, but at least get a good base tune, via PCMforless, my favorite, then dyno/real world data tune it further for fine tuning.
