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94 Corvette runs fine except in the Summer if I let the car sit and idle for more than 3 or 4 minutes it starts to run hot. Is this a thermostat problem? There is plenty of coolant and otherwise runs at good temp.
From: Partying with the Cowboys cheerleaders in Mt. Olive, New Jersey
Well, what's "hot" to you? Our cars do run a little 'hotter' by design, it's EPA/emission related. Do a little search, and you'll find out that it's not do unusual. That is, unless yours is in the red zone.
What temp does it run in summer that you consider good?
What temp does it get to that you consider hot?
How long have you had the car, has anything changed since?
Just for starters, have you bleed the air out with the air bleeders?
Left fan will run with A/C on, or at 228*(cycle off at ~219).
The first thing any C4 owner should inspect if experiencing over heating
is the area directly in front of the radiator. Our C4s are like Hoovers, they suck up all types of debris.
Mind has been staying around the 200-222 range lately. But I have seen it jump up to the high 220's. This seem to be the norm for C4's.
Other that have added fan switches, manual switch, cooler T-Stats and Chips have stated that they can run cooler (180-200 range). Factory ECM/Chip settings for the ECM is set to run at the hotter temp due to the emissions.
If you search, you will find many thread on the subject and suggestion on how to keep you running temp lower.
I would recommend that you change out your Engine Coolant Temp sensor if it is the original one.. once
I did that, the gauge did seem to indicate that I was running 3-5 degree cooler on avg and keep my operating range a bit more stable.
A bad sensor will give incorrect input to the ECM and could cause other problems.
Do a search here and you'll find many postings on this subject. I have a 1994 LT1 and my temps would get up to 230+ before I made some modifications. I hated the gurgling sounds the car made when shut down and the A/C would really push the temps up there during Florida's summer heat.
So what I did, after checking all the obvious things such as debris on the intake areas, cleaning the fluid, etc., I installed a 160 degree thermostat and reprogrammed the fans to come on sooner. This helped a lot. This alone pushed my temps down to 200 degrees. I was happy with this.
Later, I changed out my optispark and when I did that, I converted my leaking waterpump to a Meziere HD Electric Pump. That pushed my temps down to 185 to 190 range, even with the A/C running. My oil temps are in the same range.
Many here will advocate that the high temps are good but I disagree with this. I believe the car is degrading with these high temperatures and running lower is better for the cars longevity. It certainly can run too cool so there is a balance that must be met. Too hot is bad and so is too cool.
Not trying to hijack this thread but what is the normal operating temp on a '96 auto trans? I run in 3rd a lot around town to reduce resonance from the exhaust. I've seen it at 193 degrees. Is this bad? What is to HOT?
Not trying to hijack this thread but what is the normal operating temp on a '96 auto trans? I run in 3rd a lot around town to reduce resonance from the exhaust. I've seen it at 193 degrees. Is this bad? What is to HOT?
193 is pretty good.
Normal from the factory temps:
Moving at any speed above 40mph = 190 - 200
Stopped at stoplight for any length of time = 200 - 230
Reason temps get so hot when stopped, is because there is no air flowing across the radiator.
Only when the fans kick in, is there airflow and the fans do not come on until approx. 228 degrees.
However, you can force them to come on by turning on your A/C. This is one car that usually runs cooler with the A/C on than it does with it off.
Thanks Roll. I just wasn't sure how hot was to hot. This helps a lot! It runs a lot cooler than than that when in OD on the open road. Usually around 170 or so this time of year. I found out about the A/C fans last year on here. These babies do get warm don't they!
IMO.. I thing a good operating range is 185-195.. using a 180 T-Stat and fans set to come on at 195-200 and off 180-185... my opinon is that the engine does need to be in the correct operating range to function and operate efficiently.
Older Cars and truck were originally built/designed with 180-185 T-stats before all of the emission stuff came alone and required higher operating temp's. I have found that most of my mod'd engines/cars do operate better once fully warmed up to operating temp's (180-195).
I think what is more important is the air intake temp...using CAI setups and throttle body bypasses are a plus. Watching your Engine bay temp are something that can also help your normal operating temp of the engine.
IMO.. I thing a good operating range is 185-195.. using a 180 T-Stat and fans set to come on at 195-200 and off 180-185... my opinon is that the engine does need to be in the correct operating range to function and operate efficiently.
Older Cars and truck were originally built/designed with 180-185 T-stats before all of the emission stuff came alone and required higher operating temp's. I have found that most of my mod'd engines/cars do operate better once fully warmed up to operating temp's (180-195).
I think what is more important is the air intake temp...using CAI setups and throttle body bypasses are a plus. Watching your Engine bay temp are something that can also help your normal operating temp of the engine.
I agree, especially about the engine bay. I guess the difference in the Vettes and your plain old everyday ride is the fan. Electrics are nice and give you a lot more HP but you just can't beat one that is belt driven with a clutch on it to cool the bay.
I want to do the TB bypass very soon. What do you think of the kit Ecklers sells to do this?
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by Wev's vet
I agree, especially about the engine bay. I guess the difference in the Vettes and your plain old everyday ride is the fan. Electrics are nice and give you a lot more HP but you just can't beat one that is belt driven with a clutch on it to cool the bay.
I want to do the TB bypass very soon. What do you think of the kit Ecklers sells to do this?
You don't need a kit, just some 5/8" heater hose and maybe some new clamps. Look at how your hoses route and think about it. Do a search, lots of threads.
Yeah.. the kit is just a tube with some clamps.. just head over to HomeDepot, Lowe's or the nearest hardware store, find some copper piple/tubing the correct size and a two hose clamps..
Your just deconnecting the two hose from the Throttle Body and connecting the two hose together.. to finish it off.. look for some rubber plugs or caps a Kragen, Autozone.. well .you get the idea... and its a Done Deal.!
Yeah.. the kit is just a tube with some clamps.. just head over to HomeDepot, Lowe's or the nearest hardware store, find some copper piple/tubing the correct size and a two hose clamps..
Your just deconnecting the two hose from the Throttle Body and connecting the two hose together.. to finish it off.. look for some rubber plugs or caps a Kragen, Autozone.. well .you get the idea... and its a Done Deal.!
Well Sh$*, how easy is that! Thanks, I'm heading out of town this afternoon. I think I have time to do it now.
The first thing I would to is make sure your fans are running when they are supposed to. You can alway reprogram them to come on at much lower temps. I intend to do this to mine when I get the chance.
When I turn my AC on (the recirculate button), my primary fan comes on and I rarely see over 200. But If I run with my AC off, neither fans run and the temps can hit almost 230 before the fans come on when I am in city driving/idling/low speeds.
With my AC on and the primary fan running, I run between 188 and 190 on the hwy and when slowing down, 192-197.
These temps are all going by the digital. I think gauges have different sensors-and the analog will typically read higher since the sensor is in a hotter spot on the engine. Also, the analog gauges are not linear, btw-owners manual should tell you what hash marks mean what temperature.
The first thing I would to is make sure your fans are running when they are supposed to. You can alway reprogram them to come on at much lower temps. I intend to do this to mine when I get the chance.
When I turn my AC on (the recirculate button), my primary fan comes on and I rarely see over 200. But If I run with my AC off, neither fans run and the temps can hit almost 230 before the fans come on when I am in city driving/idling/low speeds.
With my AC on and the primary fan running, I run between 188 and 190 on the hwy and when slowing down, 192-197.
These temps are all going by the digital. I think gauges have different sensors-and the analog will typically read higher since the sensor is in a hotter spot on the engine. Also, the analog gauges are not linear, btw-owners manual should tell you what hash marks mean what temperature.