TPiS Mini-Ram vs. Accel Intake system
Last edited by mdlfcrss; Mar 24, 2008 at 02:32 PM.





Depends on where you want your power.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





You'd probably want to do some head work too, but you could get by with what you have...... kind of......
Think about what you're willing to do & how far you're willing to take it, pretty much everybody who runs a miniram will have a H/C package too.
You'd probably want to do some head work too, but you could get by with what you have...... kind of......
Think about what you're willing to do & how far you're willing to take it, pretty much everybody who runs a miniram will have a H/C package too.


Don't expect much, but ti will help.
You'd probably want to do some head work too, but you could get by with what you have...... kind of......
Think about what you're willing to do & how far you're willing to take it, pretty much everybody who runs a miniram will have a H/C package too.






There's no EGR.........it won't even get to the sniffer
Wow, an M6 & 3.45s........I bet it cooks off the line! Why not just do a 100 shot fogger and call it a day? You'd blow the doors off C5 Zo6s stoplite to stoplite. If it's street driving and onramp fun, that's what I'd do

edit: actually, that's what I did for a few years until I did the new motor.
Last edited by Caboboy; Mar 25, 2008 at 10:18 AM.





The LT setup uses the same base (as the superram aka SR). Larger tubed runner (than stock) are placed on top. They are actually significantly larger (30%) in cross-sectional area. And, the added hump of power is from 3k to 5K with 25-30 hp gain (especially with headers!)
The miniram (MR) adds all the power up top. You might gain up to 50 hp from 4000-6000 rpm but you will lose about 25hp up to that point.
For a stock, street car, the SR or LT runner setup are usually recommended. The "First" intake is another emerging option for the street. If you plan to do heads/cam in the future, the MR becomes the better option.
Gears add a lot to the selection. Because you have such high stock gears (3.45's), the MR is not such a bad choice. You also probably have 4-1 headers which help most in the mid-upper rpm range. So, the MR and your headers are complimentary in there target improvement range. With high gears, you can zip into the power band (upper rpms) fairly quickly and stay there. OTOY, you will also "stress" your motor more -- as you will may tend to run it at higher rpms lots more often. (Lower gears are more often matched with the LT runner setup).
Do a search on my userid. I've researched the crap out of intakes this winter. No other member has asked as many questions on this particular subject. Also, look at this intake shootout from 1995. Look at the hp curves and where the power exists for each intake. Draw them on a single graph to overlay them. Then go out driving and observe where (rpms) you usually run. It should help you decide where you might want more power -- cause you can't have more "across the board" w/o head & cam.
Another option might be mega-ported SLP runners. This intake is between the stock and LT runner (in terms of tube-size) -- but is still big enough for a 350 (vs the 305 as originally designed behind our stock TPIs). Port velocity will remain a little higher for low-end performance, mid-range should be enhanced due to 20% larger runners, and high-end should be helped due to the 3" shortening of runners. In reality, I suspect it should be VERY similar to the LT runner setup with a slightly better low-end (2k - 3.5k) rpms.
No intake will add much more two tenths in 1/4 mile performance. The longer-tube intakes will add it to the 1/8 mile times -- making it a faster than stock LTx cars in this distance. And, that is "street" range. By the end of a 1/4 mile, the LTx car will catch up. The short-tube (MR) style intakes will add it to the last half of the 1/4 mile run -- making it VERY similar to an LTx car in performance/feel.
Regardless of intakes you choose, also consider tuning your motor. I've heard of people gain similar times JUST with a good tune. Combining a tune with an intake might get you close to .5 second improvement. 1.6 rockers would also help.
gp
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Mar 25, 2008 at 03:50 PM.
Cubic inches and your HP goal is a HUGE "must know" when picking an intake.
I myself have been in miniram's with 383, and there is no loss of torque. I have been in cars with Superram's, Steathram's, TPI's, and Miniram's. I have always been impressed with the 3 inch runner design. After riding in a 383 and a 350 with a Superram, I made up my mind quickly that I would never want a Superram intake on my car so I sold mine.
Different strokes for different folks. The ease of installing a Miniram is also a huge bonus. I dont want to get into a pissing match. For me the Miniram is where it's at. I am building a big stroker motor. I am sure it will perform well, and I will have more torque (approx.460rwtq) then I know that to do with.
A few years back I drove an LT4 which was stock. It went really well, and that was stock cubic inches with a short runner intake. A miniram will work on stock cubic inches from 350 and on......
Last edited by 88BlackZ-51; Mar 25, 2008 at 03:57 PM.





From my perspective, saying low-end torque is adequate on your 383 is meaningless because it's not the same motor anymore. It's WAAAAY better!!!
OTOH, I think it's reasonable to say if you're happy with the low-end performance of an LT1 motor, then you'd probably be happy with a MR on an L98 with the configuration of car owned by the OP. The LT4 is a little more of a stretch in comparison.










