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I have 2 of these blocks! Standard bore with very little wear. They will build great. I ran 1 of them in a 79 Vette and it was the smoothest engine I ever built. Very strong runner also.
My buddy offered me a 400 short block, and a mid 70's long block for $ 50 about a year ago, they're around, just not when you need one!
I just had no space for more junk with my car in pieces, my wifes been pissed over never parking in the garage. More junk and I'd have to sleep out there!.
Good news is that I finally got my Richmond 6 spd back together last night!!
The one thing that sucks about the old blocks in that you'll have to buy retrofit lifters, or stay with flat tappets.
Not without balancing. The 400 is external balance. Sorta like a late model SBC in a way. On the 86+ SBC with 1pc rear main they took the weight off the crank flange and put it on the flywheel. The balancer is still the same, however a 400 requires a specific balancer.
The retrofit roller lifters are kinda expensive. If GM had made retro roller lifters in the 80s rather than change the block casting, they'd be dirt cheap now. Since they are seldom used, they can charge whatever they want for them.
I would go with the factory 400 block and never look back. I wouldn't go with an aftermarket block since they are overkill for anything short of a race engine. If you're really worried about the block holding up and you're making about 600bhp you can always upgrade your main caps. 100 bucks is cheap so run with it...
Not without balancing. The 400 is external balance. Sorta like a late model SBC in a way. On the 86+ SBC with 1pc rear main they took the weight off the crank flange and put it on the flywheel.
Not even WITH balancing. When, "On the 86+ SBC with 1pc rear main they took the weight off the crank flange", they also changed the bolt pattern. The flywheels and flex plates for one piece rear main seal crank shafts will NOT bolt to two piece seal crank shafts and vice versa, regardless of balance.
Not even WITH balancing. When, "On the 86+ SBC with 1pc rear main they took the weight off the crank flange", they also changed the bolt pattern. The flywheels and flex plates for one piece rear main seal crank shafts will NOT bolt to two piece seal crank shafts and vice versa, regardless of balance.
RACE ON!!!
Re-reading my post I can see how you read this wrong and misunderstood.
He was asking if his older 2pc flywheel will bolt up to the 400, right?
I said not without balancing.
I then said it was externally balanced, "Sorta like a late model SBC in a way." I then explained how the late model SBC moved the weight off the crank and into the flywheel.
I guess for someone with a ZF6 who really wants to keep his dual-mass flywheel, an adapter might make the 1pc-type crank fit the block, if it
had the right stroke and journals worked out.
Sorry, I did mean a 1 piece flywheel. Too many hours in the garage figuring out how my trans went back together last nite, it was apart way too long, hence the melt down. I'll try to be more clear next time.
Sorry, I did mean a 1 piece flywheel. Too many hours in the garage figuring out how my trans went back together last nite, it was apart way too long, hence the melt down. I'll try to be more clear next time.
Ahh, 1pc won't work without changing the crank and using an array of adapters.
Your richmond uses a push-type clutch though, so you shouldn't have a problem using a 153 tooth flywheel for a 2pc 350 and having it balanced.
Not this time, I've got a 383 on the stand that should've been in the car many moons ago! The bad thing about being so good at procrastinating is the you lose interest. Every time I get back on track there's another road block!
I've re-cleaned the parts so many times they're wearing out!
I am running a 400 sb, line bored, 30 over, giving me a 406. check my stats on the engine. I had the engine balanced internally, and was therefore able to use the 350 harmaonic balancer which is smaller. The engine with an extra 50 cubes is awesome, you will love it. I rebuilt mine with a Scat crank and rods, 4340.. There are some things you will need to know about the 400 block so do your research as to what length rods, steam holes, etc. "There is no replacement for displacement"!!!
"was" running a 409 (400 + .040) with stock crank and rods (new arp rod bolts) till a camo driver made me a ridiculous offer for it.(all us ol' firts know a 406 is a ferd, chev's got 409's)..used a factory high perf flywheel from 1970/454 c.i. BBC/ 15lb/153 teeth/ 2pc seal - has cast-in weight that is tiny bit too much before balancing (i know a butcher who runs that wheel on a 400 without balancing, claims no vibes)..."shim" the motor mounts abt 3/8'' (check hood clearance if still using tPi) and the 400 balancer misses the crossmember (ok,ok, that raises the cg abt 1/4", but the whole front was lowered an inch long ago, BFD)
The price for a aftermarket block will pay for a set of good heads,or a forged lower end.
Absolutely! Not to mention it's already seasoned, which was a biggie to me when I did my build. I've personally seen some terrible core shift in these aftermarket blocks......my machinist says he believes they're more susceptible than the old factory 400s were.
I think the big advantage to go with an aftermarket block is the raised cam; and being able to get so much more CID out of it. If a guy were to build.......... say a 421 or less, I think the advantages of a good factory block far outweigh the others..... my 02 cents anyway.
You could have made it more clear, but the way it is worded, one would reasonably presuppose that "the same flywheel" is other than one for a two piece seal, hence the question. Otherwise it would have to be interpreted as, does a two piece seal flywheel fit on a two piece seal crank shaft. DUH!
I snatched it up,was hot tanked several years ago then sat in his garage,it will need to be tanked again,has very light surface rust not bad at all,no cracks that I could see.Bore has no ridge is suppose to be standard bore