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I dont need an excuse when your involved. I have talked to guys that go to your track. They have nothing postive to say about you.
They didn't have much to say about you either.
Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
I am glad your awake. That makes me feel really good.
That's what I live for. "Your" (sic) glad that my WHAT is awake? MY being awake was never an issue. Too bad you weren't when you referred to the subject 400 block as a "a production 350 L-98 block"
That's what I live for. "Your" (sic) glad that my WHAT is awake? MY being awake was never an issue. Too bad you weren't when you referred to the subject 400 block as a "a production 350 L-98 block"
Go to strokers .com they have a fully forged rotating assembly with good parts internal ballance +or - 1/2 grams for $1600 .
Went to strokers.com, nice site if you need a date .i'll find the right site tho,Thanks How about a Forged 4.0" crank and 6"H beam rods for $600.00,E-bay parts, wonder if they are useable for this project.I'm on a buget Family&house first, leaves little $$ for me to play with.
The first big question is what you are planning to do with this engine? I can say this; the eagle connecting rods hold up pretty well for what you pay for them, however, the crankshaft you listed is made of 4130 steel. This is not as strong as a 4340 forging, but if you don't need the strength of a 4340 unit you are fine to use it. Most people want to use bottom end parts that offer way too much strength; and they end up paying for it with a weight penalty. Not a big deal on a street engine, but on a spec race engine it's a huge deal. One other thing, you will need to look at pistons before you decide anything; since you will have to run a 1" compression height you will be forced to run a forged piston. Not a big deal except for cost if that is an issue on that part. And to answer the question about hitting a 434 with nitrous... it would simply depend on how much power the engine made without it. 450bhp before and you would be ok with a good tune, 575bhp before and you are starting to get out there to the limit of the main webbing. Bear in mind that for a long time dirt track engines where made to 434cid with a production block and they could crank out 700bhp all night long.... and aftermarket blocks are not immune to core shift...
How much block clearencing to go with a 4" crank & 6" eagle h beam rods,also would this require a small circle cam?Was thinking of a Flat tappet mech. cam.Comp XS282S
One other thing, you will need to look at pistons before you decide anything; since you will have to run a 1" compression height you will be forced to run a forged piston.
I have 5.85" rods and they allow for a piston compression distance that doesn't require the oil ring to pass through the piston pin hole.
Originally Posted by Deakins
aftermarket blocks are not immune to core shift...
You will need a reduced base circle cam with the 4" stroke.
How much block clearencing to go with a 4" crank & 6" eagle h beam rods,also would this require a small circle cam?Was thinking of a Flat tappet mech. cam.Comp XS282S
been there done that and dont think ill ever do it again. my 1st motor was a 434 with a production block.
the eagle H beams will hit even with a small base circle, the base circle on my cam was .875. my 1st motor had forged eagle crank and rods and forged Ross pistons. your goning to need to grind the rods to clear the cam. if your goning to run a 23 degree head stick with a 406, less pain and less money, the dana 44 will live longer that way.
The length of the rod won't affect the grinding, only the size of the big ends (way more grinding for an aluminum rod than a steel one and so on). With a 4" stroke you will have to notch into the pan rails a good amount to clear the cap bolt on the opposing cylinders connecting rod. You are right CFI, he could run a shorter rod and help with his piston selection but I believe the crankshaft he's looking at requires a 6" to clear the counter weights; obviously some creative machining on those babies would allow a shorter rod to work but that might eat up the cost savings involved with running that unit. As for the cam, most use a small base circle is used to minimize the amount of prep on the rods. This is where I mentioned all the mock ups; you simply have to put it together a little by little and make sure everything has the required clearance and then do it all over again and recheck. It's long and boring, I'm not gonna lie, but it's worth the extra oomph you get out of the engine. Another option you have is to run a 3.85 stroke. That will give you some added cubes but will cut down on the prep work. Just so you know, there are 23* heads out there that are worked on to the extent of flowing 350+cfm.... you can get as much head as you need in 23* as long as you have the cash. There was a day when a 410 sprint car engine made 850hp with 23* heads……