C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

OK Guys, need some serious help!!

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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 12:30 AM
  #181  
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Why not keep the oil thats in there? To test oil pressure it wont hurt anything.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 12:35 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Why not keep the oil thats in there? To test oil pressure it wont hurt anything.
True.

If this doesn't do anything I'm going to check the flex plate. I'd like to rule out the oil system and valve train first.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #183  
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Today's update....

Seems the first issue is that I'm getting oil up to the valves. I let the motor run for 30 consecutive sentence on a stopwatch and nothing.

The mechanic that works on my DD only lives two blocks away, he builds motors for his cars, some get restored, some go to the track, so he is familiar with performance applications.

He came over and pointed out that no oil was getting up top. He recommended changing the oil filter, maybe I got a bad one. Which I did, I filled it with oil, MMO, and put on the new filter. $4 out the window, but wtf.......

Anyway, new filter, same thing.

I took the distributor out today and will try to pump up the lifters and get oil flowing with the primer tool, which I have to order since I can't get it locally.

I am traveling for the next couple days to the other coast, so perhaps when I get home the tool will be here.

Based on the results of the that test, will determine where I go next.

If I'm not seeing oil flowing, nothing else really matters.

I am showing between 60-80 pounds oil pressure when it fires and runs.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:34 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by jsup
I took the distributor out today and will try to pump up the lifters and get oil flowing with the primer tool, which I have to order since I can't get it locally.
I have another "trick" for you here. You don't need the primer tool. I can't save you the money that the tool costs b/c you have already it ordered, but you CAN run the same test tonight. Take a #3 flat blade Screw driver and cut the handle off, leaving as much length of shaft as possible. Better yet, put the shaft in the vice and yank the handle off. Anyway, drop a 1/2 or 9/16, 3/8" drive deep socket down over the shaft from where the handle used to be, w/the drive square "up".

The socket "drive square" will catch on the driver shaft where it starts to flair out to the wide section of the flat blade, and the socket will serves as a guide to prevent the driver blade from sliding out of the slot in the pump drive as you spin it. It works great, it's wicked cheap, and you can do it...right now.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:39 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I have another "trick" for you here. You don't need the primer tool. I can't save you the money that the tool costs b/c you have already it ordered, but you CAN run the same test tonight. Take a #3 flat blade Screw driver and cut the handle off, leaving as much length of shaft as possible. Better yet, put the shaft in the vice and yank the handle off. Anyway, drop a 1/2 or 9/16, 3/8" drive deep socket down over the shaft from where the handle used to be, w/the drive square "up".

The socket "drive square" will catch on the driver shaft where it starts to flair out to the wide section of the flat blade, and the socket will serves as a guide to prevent the driver blade from sliding out of the slot in the pump drive as you spin it. It works great, it's wicked cheap, and you can do it...right now.
My days are shot until thrusday starting now. I'm cooking on the grill,(rotisserie turkey breast) after which the kids get showered, tomorrow is a Communion party for my wife's niece, 100 miles each way, then I take off for CA till Thurs. If I order the tool, it will be here when I get back from Cali....
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #186  
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Copy. I hear you about the time crunch w/a family.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #187  
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I'm glad you could get your mechanic to come over. A lot easier to diagnose this in person.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Corvette Chris
I'm glad you could get your mechanic to come over. A lot easier to diagnose this in person.
Im too close to it, I needed a trained ear to take a listen.

I have to deal with the oil issue before I go further.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:33 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by jsup
Im too close to it, I needed a trained ear to take a listen.

I have to deal with the oil issue before I go further.
John, sorry to hear about all the problems, if you need help on Friday or Saturday, I can come up and help out.

Randy
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:22 AM
  #190  
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you didn't drop anything down in the intake did you like bolts/screws/sockets.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:00 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by RandyJ75
John, sorry to hear about all the problems, if you need help on Friday or Saturday, I can come up and help out.

Randy
Careful what you offer.... !!!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by Powersmokin
you didn't drop anything down in the intake did you like bolts/screws/sockets.
Not that I'm aware of.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:15 AM
  #193  
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Im wondering if you didnt have the noise when you first started it but didnt hear it due to having open headers?

Heres what I would do..

Pull plugs and check them..If something got in a cylinder youll know but dount thats the problem.

Try priming the oil pump, disconnect the oil sending unit and see if oil is coming out of there

Back your rockers off, check pushrods for straightness and reset...

OR....

Tear the intake off and check your lifters for a bad one.




Does your oil pressure gauge peg 80 and stay there (not normal) the minute you start it or does it function normally?

When you are looking at the dist cap from the D.S can you see the side of the cap facing you where the wires are or are they clocked way to the back?

Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #194  
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damn that sounds just like mine did when my balancer was hittin. jack the front drivers corner up till the wheel is off the ground and start it. stopped my noise instantly.may be out in left field but what the heck its such a familiar sound to me.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
Sorry. The distributor can go in anywhere in it's 360° rotation. The distributor body has a land that turns part of the cavity in the block into an oil passage. If you simply spin the oil pump with a slotted shaft, oil will not be directed to the top of the engine. Without the distributor body or the simulation of the distributor body by a proper priming tool, you have a massive leak in the oiling system. The oil will drain back to the pan, down through the distributor hole and won't get up to the heads.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #196  
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...which would render my "trick" usless on a SBC, so if anyone read that disregard (for a SBC). I've used that trick on AMC motors, and Ford motors. I'm not sure if I've ever done it on a Chevy though, now that I think about it...

-Tom
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Im wondering if you didnt have the noise when you first started it but didnt hear it due to having open headers?
It didn't make this noise before. I had the exhaust done and didn't hear anything. Definately not there before.
Heres what I would do..

Pull plugs and check them..If something got in a cylinder youll know but dount thats the problem.

Try priming the oil pump, disconnect the oil sending unit and see if oil is coming out of there

Back your rockers off, check pushrods for straightness and reset...

OR....

Tear the intake off and check your lifters for a bad one.


All things I need to do, one step at a time.



Does your oil pressure gauge peg 80 and stay there (not normal) the minute you start it or does it function normally?
no. qick pop up then drops to about 60, as it always has

When you are looking at the dist cap from the D.S can you see the side of the cap facing you where the wires are or are they clocked way to the back?
?


Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
?
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To OK Guys, need some serious help!!

Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:26 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Sorry. The distributor can go in anywhere in it's 360° rotation. The distributor body has a land that turns part of the cavity in the block into an oil passage. If you simply spin the oil pump with a slotted shaft, oil will not be directed to the top of the engine. Without the distributor body or the simulation of the distributor body by a proper priming tool, you have a massive leak in the oiling system. The oil will drain back to the pan, down through the distributor hole and won't get up to the heads.

RACE ON!!!
thanks, good to know
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
...which would render my "trick" usless on a SBC, so if anyone read that disregard (for a SBC). I've used that trick on AMC motors, and Ford motors. I'm not sure if I've ever done it on a Chevy though, now that I think about it...

-Tom
It gets oil through the rest of the engine. If left turning long enough, some oil can get to the rockers, on occasion, on one side of the engine, at least. There is a "trick" to file a narrow vertical groove in that land of the distributor body to provide additional oiling to the distributor drive and driven gears.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:58 PM
  #200  
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This is sounding to me like you have an oiling system issue. Sounds like you have oil pressure, but not to the valve train. CFI-EFI is right about having to have a distributer or a facsimile for oil not to drain back into the block. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver to get oil up to that point. I'm wondering if there is an issue there that's keeping oil from getting to the lifters and from there to the push rods etc. Was the distributer removed? I may be raising more questions than answers, but I'm confident our collective experience will come up with an answer.

Paul

PS What part of Cal are you headed for?
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