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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Today's update....
Seems the first issue is that I'm getting oil up to the valves. I let the motor run for 30 consecutive sentence on a stopwatch and nothing.
The mechanic that works on my DD only lives two blocks away, he builds motors for his cars, some get restored, some go to the track, so he is familiar with performance applications.
He came over and pointed out that no oil was getting up top. He recommended changing the oil filter, maybe I got a bad one. Which I did, I filled it with oil, MMO, and put on the new filter. $4 out the window, but wtf.......
Anyway, new filter, same thing.
I took the distributor out today and will try to pump up the lifters and get oil flowing with the primer tool, which I have to order since I can't get it locally.
I am traveling for the next couple days to the other coast, so perhaps when I get home the tool will be here.
Based on the results of the that test, will determine where I go next.
If I'm not seeing oil flowing, nothing else really matters.
I am showing between 60-80 pounds oil pressure when it fires and runs.
I took the distributor out today and will try to pump up the lifters and get oil flowing with the primer tool, which I have to order since I can't get it locally.
I have another "trick" for you here. You don't need the primer tool. I can't save you the money that the tool costs b/c you have already it ordered, but you CAN run the same test tonight. Take a #3 flat blade Screw driver and cut the handle off, leaving as much length of shaft as possible. Better yet, put the shaft in the vice and yank the handle off. Anyway, drop a 1/2 or 9/16, 3/8" drive deep socket down over the shaft from where the handle used to be, w/the drive square "up".
The socket "drive square" will catch on the driver shaft where it starts to flair out to the wide section of the flat blade, and the socket will serves as a guide to prevent the driver blade from sliding out of the slot in the pump drive as you spin it. It works great, it's wicked cheap, and you can do it...right now.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I have another "trick" for you here. You don't need the primer tool. I can't save you the money that the tool costs b/c you have already it ordered, but you CAN run the same test tonight. Take a #3 flat blade Screw driver and cut the handle off, leaving as much length of shaft as possible. Better yet, put the shaft in the vice and yank the handle off. Anyway, drop a 1/2 or 9/16, 3/8" drive deep socket down over the shaft from where the handle used to be, w/the drive square "up".
The socket "drive square" will catch on the driver shaft where it starts to flair out to the wide section of the flat blade, and the socket will serves as a guide to prevent the driver blade from sliding out of the slot in the pump drive as you spin it. It works great, it's wicked cheap, and you can do it...right now.
My days are shot until thrusday starting now. I'm cooking on the grill,(rotisserie turkey breast) after which the kids get showered, tomorrow is a Communion party for my wife's niece, 100 miles each way, then I take off for CA till Thurs. If I order the tool, it will be here when I get back from Cali....
Im wondering if you didnt have the noise when you first started it but didnt hear it due to having open headers?
Heres what I would do..
Pull plugs and check them..If something got in a cylinder youll know but dount thats the problem.
Try priming the oil pump, disconnect the oil sending unit and see if oil is coming out of there
Back your rockers off, check pushrods for straightness and reset...
OR....
Tear the intake off and check your lifters for a bad one.
Does your oil pressure gauge peg 80 and stay there (not normal) the minute you start it or does it function normally?
When you are looking at the dist cap from the D.S can you see the side of the cap facing you where the wires are or are they clocked way to the back?
Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
damn that sounds just like mine did when my balancer was hittin. jack the front drivers corner up till the wheel is off the ground and start it. stopped my noise instantly.may be out in left field but what the heck its such a familiar sound to me.
Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
Sorry. The distributor can go in anywhere in it's 360° rotation. The distributor body has a land that turns part of the cavity in the block into an oil passage. If you simply spin the oil pump with a slotted shaft, oil will not be directed to the top of the engine. Without the distributor body or the simulation of the distributor body by a proper priming tool, you have a massive leak in the oiling system. The oil will drain back to the pan, down through the distributor hole and won't get up to the heads.
...which would render my "trick" usless on a SBC, so if anyone read that disregard (for a SBC). I've used that trick on AMC motors, and Ford motors. I'm not sure if I've ever done it on a Chevy though, now that I think about it...
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Im wondering if you didnt have the noise when you first started it but didnt hear it due to having open headers?
It didn't make this noise before. I had the exhaust done and didn't hear anything. Definately not there before.
Heres what I would do..
Pull plugs and check them..If something got in a cylinder youll know but dount thats the problem.
Try priming the oil pump, disconnect the oil sending unit and see if oil is coming out of there
Back your rockers off, check pushrods for straightness and reset...
OR....
Tear the intake off and check your lifters for a bad one.
All things I need to do, one step at a time.
Does your oil pressure gauge peg 80 and stay there (not normal) the minute you start it or does it function normally?
no. qick pop up then drops to about 60, as it always has
When you are looking at the dist cap from the D.S can you see the side of the cap facing you where the wires are or are they clocked way to the back?
?
Theres an oreintation to that further down on the shaft with a groove that allows oil to the top if Im not mistaken.
Someone correct me on this if Im wrong.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Sorry. The distributor can go in anywhere in it's 360° rotation. The distributor body has a land that turns part of the cavity in the block into an oil passage. If you simply spin the oil pump with a slotted shaft, oil will not be directed to the top of the engine. Without the distributor body or the simulation of the distributor body by a proper priming tool, you have a massive leak in the oiling system. The oil will drain back to the pan, down through the distributor hole and won't get up to the heads.
...which would render my "trick" usless on a SBC, so if anyone read that disregard (for a SBC). I've used that trick on AMC motors, and Ford motors. I'm not sure if I've ever done it on a Chevy though, now that I think about it...
-Tom
It gets oil through the rest of the engine. If left turning long enough, some oil can get to the rockers, on occasion, on one side of the engine, at least. There is a "trick" to file a narrow vertical groove in that land of the distributor body to provide additional oiling to the distributor drive and driven gears.
This is sounding to me like you have an oiling system issue. Sounds like you have oil pressure, but not to the valve train. CFI-EFI is right about having to have a distributer or a facsimile for oil not to drain back into the block. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver to get oil up to that point. I'm wondering if there is an issue there that's keeping oil from getting to the lifters and from there to the push rods etc. Was the distributer removed? I may be raising more questions than answers, but I'm confident our collective experience will come up with an answer.
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