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This is sounding to me like you have an oiling system issue. Sounds like you have oil pressure, but not to the valve train. CFI-EFI is right about having to have a distributer or a facsimile for oil not to drain back into the block. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver to get oil up to that point. I'm wondering if there is an issue there that's keeping oil from getting to the lifters and from there to the push rods etc. Was the distributer removed? I may be raising more questions than answers, but I'm confident our collective experience will come up with an answer.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
This is sounding to me like you have an oiling system issue. Sounds like you have oil pressure, but not to the valve train. CFI-EFI is right about having to have a distributer or a facsimile for oil not to drain back into the block. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver to get oil up to that point. I'm wondering if there is an issue there that's keeping oil from getting to the lifters and from there to the push rods etc. Was the distributer removed? I may be raising more questions than answers, but I'm confident our collective experience will come up with an answer.
Paul
PS What part of Cal are you headed for?
I did not remove the distributor.
I'll have the tool when I get back, it's $18 at summit, no big deal.
If you're still here on the 12th, and not doing anything, we've got a big cruise going on and you're welcome to join us. Check out the Norcal section for details. You gotta promise not to shoot anybody though, I know how you wiseguys from Jersey are.
no i am confused. how it it possible for the oil galley that supplys the lifter valley be blocked up. all he did is pull the intake right? and if it is blocked where the hell is it so i know so i dont do it myself.
Last edited by 85blkrose; Apr 7, 2008 at 02:13 PM.
Reason: typo
no i am confused. how it it possible for the oil galley that supplys the lifter valley be blocked up. all he did is pull the intake right? and if it is blocked where the hell is it so i know so i dont do it myself.
I don't think it is YOU that is confused. Over 200 posts to get the engine running properly after an injector change and he is actually advising someone else to ohm the injectors to a guy with too fast of an idle.
My understanding is that he:
-pulled the SR, runners & fuel rail (base was not touched)
-installed new injectors and replaced the intake parts
-changed the oil & filter
Also, that there was no "noise" before the above R&R items were preformed.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
If you're still here on the 12th, and not doing anything, we've got a big cruise going on and you're welcome to join us. Check out the Norcal section for details. You gotta promise not to shoot anybody though, I know how you wiseguys from Jersey are.
Paul
I'm in Pleasanton now. I'm leaving on the red eye on Wednesday, 10:45 flight. I get home at 6:30AM. At which time I will run directly to the garage and start working on the car till daylight Friday, to make CFI happy. It's taking me too long.
I am open on Wed if you want to get a beer before I go. I have to be at SFO by say 9:30....
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by 65Z01
My understanding is that he:
-pulled the SR, runners & fuel rail (base was not touched)
-installed new injectors and replaced the intake parts
-changed the oil & filter
Also, that there was no "noise" before the above R&R items were preformed.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Before I go any further, I am going to run oil with the primer. I want to see oil.
When I see oil, I will try to restart it.
If it makes noise, then I'm into taking out all the plugs, getting a stethoscope, looking at the flex plate, etc....however, none of that matters if there's no oil flowing.
Before I go any further, I am going to run oil with the primer. I want to see oil.
When I see oil, I will try to restart it.
If it makes noise, then I'm into taking out all the plugs, getting a stethoscope, looking at the flex plate, etc....however, none of that matters if there's no oil flowing.
Comments?
Sounds pretty good to me. IF oil does flow to the heads like its supposed to, using the priming tool, you have to make sure it keeps the flow while running. I can't see why it wouldn't, if the other works, but you never know...
I live near Sacramento, so the cold one will have to wait for another day. I think your plan is a good one, but I think I'd get some sleep before worrying about keeping CFI happy. I can't think of what could keep oil from the top end when you have good pressure at the sensor. In the end its just a small block Chevy, it can't be that complicated.
ok. lets start here again you pulled off your sr plenum, left your runners on, you pulled your fuel rail and injectors, swapped out your injectors with larger ones, put it all back together and installed new programmed chip. am i correct so far? hope so. the car ran fine before this swap took place.
here is my questions.
was your car jacked up or on jackstands and if so where did you jack it from?
hopefully you didnt do it from the cross member and squash your oil pan into the rods.casuse your noise starts as soon as you motor rotates
that is the only possible thing i could think of that you could have done by swapping out your injectors. that would give you a metel to metal contact. pull your plugs and rotate the motor by hand with the crank bolt and feel/listen for any kinda interfence.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
[QUOTE=85blkrose;1564921305]ok. lets start here again you pulled off your sr plenum, left your runners on, you pulled your fuel rail and injectors, swapped out your injectors with larger ones, put it all back together and installed new programmed chip. am i correct so far? hope so. the car ran fine before this swap took place.[\quote]
Correct
here is my questions.
was your car jacked up or on jackstands and if so where did you jack it from?
Not on jack stands, however, I did jack up the driver's side to change the oil. I put my floor jack on the frame member behind the front tire
hopefully you didnt do it from the cross member and squash your oil pan into the rods.casuse your noise starts as soon as you motor rotates
Nope, frame behind the tire
that is the only possible thing i could think of that you could have done by swapping out your injectors. that would give you a metel to metal contact. pull your plugs and rotate the motor by hand with the crank bolt and feel/listen for any kinda interfence.
That's what I'm going to do when I get home after I run the oil to see if it comes up. I have to see what the oil is doing before I touch anything else.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
SO, I just got a couple of hours ago. Did the red eye from SFO to Newark. I had an emergency seat row that didn't incline, and I believe the seat actually pitched forward.
Needless to say I did not get a lot of sleep, if any.
As I passed out at home the doorbell rings and there's a FedEx box on my step. The oil tool.
I went into the garage, found my best Portor Cable 1/2 inch drive masonary drill. Set it to high speed and took it off hammer.
I connected it to the oil priming tool and ran it.
Oil started coming up slowly on some rockers, but not all of them.
Also, kind of odd, there seemed to be a lot of resistance, which lessoned over time as the drill ran. At one point it appeared the resistance disappeared all at once and the pump spun free.
As I started this thread, I am exhausted, I did this as a quick test, probably letting the drill run on high speed for two-three minutes.
I agree with Pete K, it sounds like you have an internal oil leak that's bleeding off the oil pressure before it gets to the lifter galley. There isn't any oil leaking out of the back of the engine on to the ground is there?
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
I agree with Pete K, it sounds like you have an internal oil leak that's bleeding off the oil pressure before it gets to the lifter galley. There isn't any oil leaking out of the back of the engine on to the ground is there?
Paul
Not that I can see, but I will knock off the cover and look.
Is it possible the 20-50 caused the problem because of too much pressure?
This sounds reasonable.....where to start? Rear main seal (which I didn't change) and valley plugs?
Stupid question...I never changed a valley plug, can it be done with the motor in the car? I'm assuming so.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
How does this sound?
I had the same problem with a 383 stroker i built. tooling down the road it was fine but as soon as i jumped on the gas at 3000 rpm the oil pressure fell off if i let off the gas the pressure would come back up. so after pullin the engine out the second time we tested everything and finnaly came accross the one thing people tend to over look in an engines oilling system. the lifters. the lifters are a check valve times 16 in your engine so even if 3 or 4 are not working properly then this is a hole in the oil system and at rpm can and will create pressure drop fast
.
The difference is that I'm not getting to 3000 RPMs, I'm having the problem at idle.
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