C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Main Girdle Question???

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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 11:50 PM
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Default Main Girdle Question???

1992 Corvette Lt1 6 speed

I need to know if anyone is running an LT1 engine with a main girdle, which oil pan (brand/PN#) do you use that clears the girdle because the stock one didn't . Thank you in advance.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 03:45 PM
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nobody here runs a main girdle
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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last engine builder i asked about this mentioned that the ribs will rip out of the casting where the main area meets the block before main studs will break. the girdle might help keep bearings in place if you're heading above 7,000rpm though. then again if you're going over 7k a dart block would be smart. i used the arp main stud kit with the factory windage tray, shift at 6,500 constantly and redline at 6700. not a problem one 15,000 miles later.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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If I don't find a pan that fits since I already have the girdle, I will go with your advice and loose the girdle and use studs. thanks raceB.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by saoco
If I don't find a pan that fits since I already have the girdle, I will go with your advice and loose the girdle and use studs. thanks raceB.
If your block is a factory 4 bolt main that (ditching the girdle) would be the best thing to do. There is absolutly NO NEED for a girdle. They don't even work on thin webbed Ford 302's. A girdle does creat a nice alum "basket" to catch the rotating assy when they fly out the bottom of the block. These things are a good example of over marketed hype. Most people just don't know better.

I have run stock 4 bolt 350 blocks to over 650HP and 7500RPM (with fairly heavy rotating assy's) before the caps started to show any signs of walking. A GENII LT1 is no different in the caps/main webbing area and few people can make that kind of HP N/A in a street car.
Will
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 11:14 PM
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Yes my block is 4 bolt main rkl. Now I see why nobody here runs a main girdle and there is no direct fit oil pan out there for it either. Thanks rklessdriver and racebum for your help.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 02:31 AM
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If you are worried about the caps billet caps would be a better choice over a girdle and studs don't make the caps andy stronger as they are just a grey cast iron cap, Its like putting a new set of ARP rod bolts in old set of rods it does not make the rod any stronger it just better hardware.

If you get into some serious power splayed caps are the way to go.

If your bloc has the 2482 on the center caps they are the nodular iron caps and GM rates them at 450 horse.

Here is a pic of a late model block we installed billet caps on.


Here is a pic of a cap that came of a studed block.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 04:33 AM
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what took that cap out? HP or RPM? steel caps are definately the way to go & splaying them even better. gm finally fixed this problem with the 6 bolt main of the LSx
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by racebum
what took that cap out? HP or RPM? steel caps are definately the way to go & splaying them even better. gm finally fixed this problem with the 6 bolt main of the LSx
That came out of a 2 barrel circle track engine 420 horse that spins 6800 at the most, Customer did know that the cap was broke untill it was dissasembled for a rebuild, Over 30 years of building engines we have seen alot of broken caps and cracked webbing ETC.

Splayed caps are tied into the pan rails which doesn't put all the torque and HP just to the webbing of the block.
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