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as it states i am losing cranking power if the car doesnt run for over 14 hrs any clue?? thanks for the help
also any recommendation for injectors and the size no mods but axle back exhaust and it will have a cut airlid and possible port match intake manifold
also it hesitates when cold all spark plugs and wires are replaced getting a distributor and rotor in a little bit and a fuel filter? all help is appriciated
as it states i am losing cranking power if the car doesnt run for over 14 hrs any clue?? thanks for the help
also any recommendation for injectors and the size no mods but axle back exhaust and it will have a cut airlid and possible port match intake manifold
also it hesitates when cold all spark plugs and wires are replaced getting a distributor and rotor in a little bit and a fuel filter? all help is appriciated
Find out what is staying on....if there is nothing on get a battery
as it states i am losing cranking power if the car doesnt run for over 14 hrs any clue?? thanks for the help
also any recommendation for injectors and the size no mods but axle back exhaust and it will have a cut airlid and possible port match intake manifold
also it hesitates when cold all spark plugs and wires are replaced getting a distributor and rotor in a little bit and a fuel filter? all help is appriciated
Get with Jon with FICInjectors.....he'll get you on the right path! He has a "sticky" on the C4 Tech & Performance page with videos.
as it states i am losing cranking power if the car doesnt run for over 14 hrs any clue?? thanks for the help
also any recommendation for injectors and the size no mods but axle back exhaust and it will have a cut airlid and possible port match intake manifold
also it hesitates when cold all spark plugs and wires are replaced getting a distributor and rotor in a little bit and a fuel filter? all help is appriciated
It will be helpful to know what year your Vette is. Fill in your profile
when you have a chance
Take your car to AutoZone or Advance Auto and have them do a battery check. It's free. I was getting pretty close to what you're experiencing, and it turned out to just be a bad battery.
Im my case on my 87, it turned out that the 2 under hood lights were remaining on after the front clip was let down.
Removed the light bulbs and problem cured...
One another thing after the battery has been recharged, try removing one of the battery cables then touching it to the post of the battery.
If you see an arc, you have a open circuit or short some where within your system.
Last edited by Jim McCombe; Nov 21, 2008 at 04:35 PM.
Partial Quote from Jim McCombe:
One another thing after the battery has been recharged, try removing one of the battery cables then touching it to the post of the battery.
If you see an arc, you have a open circuit or short some where within your system.[/QUOTE]
It is normal for a spark to occur when reconnecting the battery, there are many bypass capacitors that draw a current pulse when reconnected, also the courtesy lights come on and they draw several amps. A spark does not necessarily mean that excess leakage current is occurring. Also, if you had a short, you would blow a fuse.
If you measure the leakage current, it should be less than 50 milliamps and 50 ma. would take 83 days to discharge a battery. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have no battery problems.
My 95 is discharging the battery if left for more than 2-3 days without running. At first I thought it could be a bad battery, bought the most expensive, premium 84 month battery, and it happened again, dead as a hammer in two days, replaced that battery and still have the same problem. So I disconnected the negative terminal, let everything power down for about 15-20 mins, then connected a meter and I have a constant 85 milliamp draw, then took out/ replaced all fuses in interior,then both groups of maxi fuses beside the battery, as well as took the wire off the alternator, still about an 80-85 milliamp draw, can anyone help?? This little demon is evasive. Thanks in advance, Brian (brinikprice)
My 95 is discharging the battery if left for more than 2-3 days without running. At first I thought it could be a bad battery, bought the most expensive, premium 84 month battery, and it happened again, dead as a hammer in two days, replaced that battery and still have the same problem. So I disconnected the negative terminal, let everything power down for about 15-20 mins, then connected a meter and I have a constant 85 milliamp draw, then took out/ replaced all fuses in interior,then both groups of maxi fuses beside the battery, as well as took the wire off the alternator, still about an 80-85 milliamp draw, can anyone help?? This little demon is evasive. Thanks in advance, Brian (brinikprice)
Sounds like you have the right idea but you just need to go a bit further. Maybe you need to not only pull the fuses but unplug boxes like PCM, ABS computer, headlight control or any other item you can get to that might get power. How about fuse links under the hood. Usually it’s the computers, radios and PKE that require power when car is not running. Perhaps a hung relay somewhere. Elimination is the way to do it, the current is going somewhere.
Ok, I will give this a try this weekend, thanks so much for the advice, now if I only knew what a fuse link was. I think you have the right idea about a relay being stuck open or the headlight power, just have to take some more time to try these out. Also any idea where to unplug the ccm or the abs? not sure where the relays are either, this is my first corvette, I am in love with it, just have to figure this out, this site is great. Thanks for the help, also I plan on buying a Factory Service Manual (s) not found any under 160 yet.
Brian
May want to check the starter too. A friend had a Chevy pickup where the starter worked but it was draining the battery. Pull the cable off the starter and see if the power draw is still there