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The one I am concerned about is code12 It says in the book, Diagnostic mode; no distributor signal to ECM; system PASS.
Does this mean it passes or is it failing somehow and what can be wrong?
In reference to code 23 I think this is the TPS which I have set at .54 volts as the book says.
The major problem that I have with the car is this: It is real good off the start and as the rpms get higher it seems to bogg down and create popping sensation. Not real loud but it feels like backifing. The MAF sensor is not hooked up becuase it doesnt work but I have one on the way. Does anyone know what the problem is?
The one I am concerned about is code12 It says in the book, Diagnostic mode; no distributor signal to ECM; system PASS.
Does this mean it passes or is it failing somehow and what can be wrong?
In reference to code 23 I think this is the TPS which I have set at .54 volts as the book says.
The major problem that I have with the car is this: It is real good off the start and as the rpms get higher it seems to bogg down and create popping sensation. Not real loud but it feels like backifing. The MAF sensor is not hooked up becuase it doesnt work but I have one on the way. Does anyone know what the problem is?
Code 12 is the start of the diagnostic routine. It also signals that the ecm is communicating and is able to run the diagnostics. Normal.
Code 14 is a bad coolant temp sensor voltage low. Yes there are two coolant sensors. This is the one for the ecm not your gauge (dash readout). This allows for the system to go into closed loop mode once the motor reaches operating temp.
Code 23 is for the MAT (manifold air temp) Voltage low. This tells the ecm of the incoming air temp.
Code 42 Electronic spark timing. Could be intermittent. I would fix the other problems first as this could be a result of other problems.
Hope this helps.
Some one else will chime in with some other ideas.
Mike.
Last edited by captmike13; Jan 11, 2009 at 04:44 PM.
A code 42 is always thrown when you do the timing per the factory specs, because it calls for setting the timing with the EST connector unplugged. Did you recently set timing?
What brand of code reader did you purchase? The reader you purchased may not support the 85 chip/ecm.
You might try the paper clip method to verify the codes you are getting. Take a paper clip and short A & B, then turn iginition to the ON position (do not start). The "check engine" light should flash once then twice (repeated two more times) this is the beginning of the reading and just tells you it is working. The next set of codes are flashed three times each, then onto the next set of codes.....when all the codes have been shown, it will flash once then twice (code 12) a total of three times.
Remember the codes are for faults in a whole system , not just the sensor itself.
The ECM has done a system check and found something wrong
Could be bad wiring , loose connector , bad earth.
The CTS especially has a major effect on most ECM functions.
I have the code reader that is basically a box with a loop that attached a and b on the plug. I replaced the knock sensor and for some reason the only codes I am getting now are 14 and 33.
In reference to the coolant sensor is this the one on the passenger side of the block between the 6 and 8 cylinders? I replaced the one in the front under the throttle body on the intake.
With that many codes at once I think its a problem other than the sensors. It could be a fault in the wiring or even a bad ECM. Check the voltage on these circuits before replacing anything.