I'm starting a new thread because I have a million questions about this. I figured it's better to keep everything in one place. I'm shooting for next weekend which is when Mardi Gras kicks into full gear. I decided to skip it this year to do the install. I should have about five days to complete the install. I'm going to install the cam without removing the motor. I have most of the parts already and the rest should be here next week. I would really appreciate all the help I can get especially next Friday(2/20) through Tuesday(2/25). I'm sure I'll be posting a lot. If anyone in the Covington La. area would like to help that would be great too. Even an emergency phone contact would be appreciated.

Here's the parts list...
Custom Grind Billet Cam 226/234, 565/565, 109 LSA
Patriot Gold Extreme Springs Kit (8501-BSBC)
Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr (1305-16)
Trick Flow Pushrod Guideplates (30400623-8)
7/16 ARP Rocker Arm Atuds (134-7103)
Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150)
Trickflow Adjustable Pushrod Length Checker (9000)
GM LS7 Lifters (12499225)
GM Delphi Optispark (CZ20003-11B1)
Cloyes True Roller Timing Chain (9-3145)
Meziere EWP & Wiring Harness (WP118-HD)
PSMFORLESS Updates Custom Tune
LT4 Knock Module (16214681)
Miscl. GM Gaskets
NGK TR6 Replacement Spark Plugs-Nitrous
Cam Lube
2 Gallons non DexCool Antifreeze
Engine Degreaser
Anti Seize
WD40
Specialty Tools??


Red = Already Installed

Questions to follow...

 

I have the Factory Service Manuals. I found these tutorials/sites that I will be printing up and reading over in the coming week. These may help some others also. Please post any that I may have missed.

http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

http://impalasuperstore.com/naisso/F...TOPIC_ID=30984

http://www.zmydust.com/headsandcam.html

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/guides.htm

http://www.97transam.com/97ta-cam.php

http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/cam/

http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm

http://www.boxwrench.net/

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ar-or-out.html

 

First couple of questions...

I was told I had to remove the intake to get at the oil pump drive. Is this to remove the shaft? I've also been told that the distributor gear or shaft uses a plastic piece that wears and should be relaced. What needs to be replaced exactly and what is involved? Part numbers? Since I have to take off the intake manifold I'm going to replace the lifters with GM LS7 lifters. Is it okay to reuse the dogbones and spider?

 

yes reuse the dogbones and spider. I believe those oil pump drive shafts sometimes have a plastic cover that slips down around the joint to help keep the shaft on the pump. Just get a new oil pump shaft, i believe they make newer designs without that plastic piece.

LS7 lifters are good stuff but be advised, the pushrod cup sits lower than a standard LT1 lifter. You MAY need longer pushrods. I did for my motor build but i was also using a smaller base circle cam. I'd suggest measuring it.

Are you going to degree the camshaft?

 

Is this what I need? Will this replace the weak nylon piece? It says Gen I. Hopefully I'm not confusing this with non LT1 motors. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=32&N=700+115 I've never removed the oil pump drive shaft before or the intake for that matter.

I was told that the 7.150" trickflow pushrods should work with the parts I've ordered but that was when I was going to reuse the stock lifters. I was going to order those and the pushrod checker today. The problem is I may not have time to order new ones over the weekend install so I'd like to get as close as possible on the ones I order. Hopefull I'll get lucky cause these are not available locally. I may have to overnight some. Ideas?

I have not decided about degreeing the cam. I know it's a good idea but again something I've never done before. I've got a lot of reading to do this week. Any suggestions or how-to?

 

Is your engine a LT1? If so, NO, that's not what you need for the oil pump drive. That drive is for L98 and earlier engines. The LT1/4 drives look entirely different. Much shorter and bolts in place to the block with a single bolt and is 'L' shaped.

I bought mine from Chevy, about $70.00 and comes with new gear and shaft.

For me there's no acceptable substitute for actually measuring to determine the correct pushrod length. Just use an adjustable pushrod to determine the length you need and order a new set.

Choose .080 wall, hardened, one-piece rods. I use TrickFlows, which come in .050 increments.

If your measured numbers don't fall exactly on what TrickFlow offers, you have basically two options:

Order a custom set of pushrods. Seems I recall Smith and Company in Washington or Oregon makes them. I've forgotten exactly since it's been so long, but I'm sure someone can post more accurate info on them.

The second option is to choose a length closest to what you measured. If you have to split the difference, opt for the longer set.
I can ship you my adjustable pushrod for measuring if you promise to return it; let me know. jcameron266@sbcglobal.net

Jake

 

Degreeeing the cam with the engine in the car is a real PIA. You'll need to mount a degree wheel to the crank snout, mount a pointer and then be able to read the wheel which will be in a very TIGHT space. Hard to keep from getting parallex error.

The larger the degree wheel the better since a really big one will let you see small degree differences easier. You also will need to be able to turn the engine without distubring the pointer/wheel index.

You'll need a dial indicator arrangement to read off the #1 intake lifter. I use the type that reads directly off the lifter without having to use a magnetic base dial indicator, long extension rod, etc.

If you're going to run a CompCams camshaft you"can" skip the degreeing since with all the CompCams shafts I've installed I've NEVER found one more that one degree off. Since you'd never notice a difference of 1 degree, you can safely skip the degreeing. I can't speak for other cam makers though.

If you've never degreed a cam before, it can be a very confusing operation. Best thing would be to have a friend who has degreed cams before give you a hand.

Hope this helps.

 

 

I don't believe the Cloyes 9-3145 timing chain set will fit behind the stock timing chain cover.

You may have to go with the GM LT1/4 set or the Cloyes single roller set for the Gen II Vette engine.

Guys, check me on this. If I recall I bought that set for my 96 build up and ended up having to sell it to another Forum member.

Jake

 

So is the gear a wear item? It looks like something I may be able to reuse? What is this nylon coupler piece here? http://shbox.com/1/op_shaft.jpg I was told that the oil pan would have to come off and the pump removed to get to this. I really don't want to have to do that so I guess thats out.


I found these pics of the gear.
1 2

I think this is the shaft and coupler I was told about.



I may just order a set of trickflow pushrods along with the cheaper length checker tool. My cam guy sells a lot of these setups so I think he can get close. The heads have been cleaned up and resurfaced only when I blew a gasket. I'm also using a better FelPro gasket. If the pushrods are not the right size I'll have to send them back to Summit and hopefully the correct ones can be shipped over night. I have Thunder racing about 1.5 hours away in Baton Rouge also. Thanks for the offer on the tool. Very nice of you.

The cam I ordered is a billet custom grid. I think I'm going to skip degreeing the cam.

I bought the Cloyes timing chain a while back. I was told it would fit but some grinding of the timing cover may be needed for some years. Then another member with a 95 mentioned it going right in.? Not sure. I really dont have any idea about how to install this since its different then the part coming off. Anyone?

 

The shaft and coupler shown in the photos is for engines that have the distributor mounted to the back of the intake manifold, near the firewall. If your engine is like that (I still don't know for sure what year engine we're dealing with), you'd removed the single bolt holding the distributor to the manifold, remove the little horseshoe shaped hold down then lift the distributor out.

What year engine are we dealing with???

Many times that shaft/coupler will come out still attached to the distributor. Other times you can use a magnet to reach in and pull it out. That type shaft/coupler can be removed without dropping the pan UNLESS it's really stuck to the oil pump.

But if you're running a LT1 engine, that setup won't even be there. You'd be running an Opti-Spark distributor which is mounted to the front of the engine. On LT1s and LT4s, the oil pump drive is, maybe four or so inches tall and the intake has to be removed in order to remove it since it's held in place by a single bolt that CAN'T be accessed with the intake manifold in place.

Remember, LT1 and LT4 engines are GEN II, NOT Gen I.

Jake

 

Sorry, I have a 1995 LT1.

Maybe I'm confusing stuff. Isnt there an oil pump drive shaft accessed from underneath by removing the oil pump? Then theres a gear that is accessed from above by the intake? No?

Since I don't want to bother with removing the oil pump or pan I guess I can forget about that one anyway.

 

The Cloyes 9-3145 will work, I'm running one in my car.

Also, this may help.
http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm

 

Did you have to clearance/grind the timing cover any? What did you use to plug the water pump drive shaft? I've herd jb weld and a .50 cent piece works. Does that go on the inside or outside? I'd rather use some type of freeze plug if available.

 

I used a 95 timing cover and no clearancing was needed. But, I have heard some have needed a small amount of clearancing. Also picked up a freeze plug from NAPA and JB welded it in the timing cover.

 

1) Every question you've asked is clearly discussed in....


...I strongly recommend you consider getting one for your year of car.

2) The oil pump drive stub shaft that is accessed from the intake valley looks like this...



The stub shaft tends to crack where the bolt passes thru (by my fingers in the pic)

3) By not removing the oil pan, you are setting yourself up for the following....The potential to break one or both of the aluminum ears on the timing chain cover when you try to remove it and the very high probablility of having an oil leak after reassembly.

 

815 499 8790 Call me during the swap if you run into any troubles. I just finished up doing my cam swap today

 

I already have the FSM's for my year. I've been reading through it today. Some things I learned after I had posted. They have all the J-#### tools listed and some useful diagrams. They left out the rookie do-it-yourself tips and tricks. I also couldnt find the section on hub removal with a block of wood and a hammer. Hopefully you guys can fill in.

Is it possible to lower just the front of the pan for timing cover removal and reuse the gasket?

Thanks

 

Awesome! I appreciate that. I wont be starting until next Friday probably.

 

Yes, but be careful. It is difficult to seperate the factory installed oil pan gasket from the timing cover. I failed and had to pull the pan to replace the gasket.