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Ok, so just recently I've started having this issue on my 89. I'll start it and the voltage is sitting at 11.5 indicating no voltage from the alternator.... UNTIL the car warms up to about 155 and the idle changes. It's been pretty consistant with coolant temp. It jumps up immidiately to 14.4 ish. Usually won't have any more issues for the rest of that day. I don't know where to even start with this!
I've had a similar problem, although not with a digital dash car. Old chevy pickup that does the same thing, won't show any charging voltage until it warms up - until the Dash/interior warms up. The problem was the voltmeter itself - an analog "mechanical" gage. I doubt that such a problem can happen with the digital dash, but...
If you connect up a battery charger and Force the voltage to go up does the gage display show That correctly?
Ok, so just recently I've started having this issue on my 89. I'll start it and the voltage is sitting at 11.5 indicating no voltage from the alternator.... UNTIL the car warms up to about 155 and the idle changes. It's been pretty consistant with coolant temp. It jumps up immidiately to 14.4 ish. Usually won't have any more issues for the rest of that day. I don't know where to even start with this!
Just had a strange voltage issue with my '89. Removed the 41 pin bulk head connector and cleaned the tar off the pins put it back together and the car is fine now.This connector is the big connector on the firewall just below the brake booster. You'll have to pull the battery to get to it...the nut in the center of the connector between the 2 wire bundles is 1/4". Big fun....have fun.
Remove the side panel then the battery to gain access. Just a warning this is a time consuming task the tar sealant they used on these connectors is a PITA to clean/remove. No doubt the "tar/sealer" will have crept into the connections. You want to pick up a big can of CRC electronic cleaner and/or some alcohol along with about 300 Qtips. And some RTV to reseal the outer portion of the connector so you don't get H20 intrusion in there. Most of the electrical connection for the interior go into the cabin through this 41 pin plug. Take your time with this task.
If the alternator isn't charging the battery, your red battery symbol light should be lit on the dash. I suspect a dash voltmeter problem. Use your VOM (voltmeter, ohmeter, milliameter) test meter and measure the voltage across the battery terminals and compare it with the dash voltmeter. Engine cold, the alternator output voltage should be close to 14.7 volts and it decreases with increasing alternator temperature and fully warm, the alternator output voltage should be close to 13.7 volts. If you had poor cable connections to the battery, you wouldn't be able to reliably crank the engine to start it.
jfb:
I already had checked it with a volt meter, and yes the dash light is on when the voltage is low. The dash meter is correct and matches the volt meter.
Disconnect the ground cable from the battery and measure the resistance from the battery positive terminal to the alternator output terminal. It should be the same as touching the ohmeter probes together. This tests the fusible link in the alternator output terminal.
Check the gages fuse and the c.fan fuse with an ohmeter. Another possibility is a broken wire inside the alternator on the output terminal. Rotating the output bolt can sever the inside wire and it can be intermittent. Last, remove the alternator and have it tested.
My 85 used to do the same thing....then after awhile it would quit charging....turned out to be the diode pack in the alternator....15 bucks and a lesson on how to take apart an alternator.