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I couldnt start the car at first its been sitting for 5 years, so i did alot of cleaning in the fuel system replaced filter pump and injectors. Then i found out my distributor was off by one tooth so i fixed it and finally my car started. However when my car starts i can hear it rev up but then the rpms drop and the engine shuts down there is NO sputter as if starving for gas. If i step on the gas in intervals the engine just goes up and down but as soon as i stop it shuts off. I was told that i may have a major vacuum leak or that my low speed idle is messed up. Right now im buying some gaskets for the plenum, TB, runners, and manifold need to replace them anyways. then im going to adjust the idle but i wanted to know if that space between the injectors and the manifold could cause the problem so i can try to reseat them it didnt seem they did when i placed them in cause the rails cant be pushed anyfurther down and the injectors seem to be in the slots but about .06 to .1 inches off the base of the slot.
Ahhhh...bringing her back from the dead.....I see
Well I'd not worry about the extra injector spacing right now....how old is the gas that was in the tank and what did you do to remove the old fuel in the system or did you just freshen it up?
I think you should do some fuel pressures checks at the fuel rail to start off with....this doesn't require the car to run. Does the car run long enough to trigger any trouble codes?
well the gas has been sitting in there for 5 yrs also. i pulled out the tank and all the fuel lines emptied them, soaked them in seafoam fuel cleaner ,same with the rails, cleaned them up and put them back on. I checked the fuel pressure and it reads about 41 psi. Oh and its and 86.
well the gas has been sitting in there for 5 yrs also. i pulled out the tank and all the fuel lines emptied them, soaked them in seafoam fuel cleaner ,same with the rails, cleaned them up and put them back on. I checked the fuel pressure and it reads about 41 psi. Oh and its and 86.
1986 yes, I went and looked at your profile. Does your fuel pressure stay up once the pump shuts off or does it drop quickly?
How about the trouble codes...got any?
Last edited by engle1147; Feb 26, 2009 at 09:34 PM.
when the pump shots off it slowly and gradually drops.it takes about 5 - 10 mins to go down to 39. i dont got any trouble codes dont have the diagnososis tool for that.
well the gas has been sitting in there for 5 yrs also. i pulled out the tank and all the fuel lines emptied them, soaked them in seafoam fuel cleaner ,same with the rails, cleaned them up and put them back on. I checked the fuel pressure and it reads about 41 psi. Oh and its and 86.
Dayum!! Wish I had the willpower to let a vette sit for 5 years !!
Did you duck tape the FP gauge to your windshield and observe your psi's from the time you started engine to the time it died ? Although you cleaned out your tank, that pump has been submerged in the same petrol for 5 years. Fuel filter could also be gummed up.
Dayum!! Wish I had the willpower to let a vette sit for 5 years !!
Did you duck tape the FP gauge to your windshield and observe your psi's from the time you started engine to the time it died ? Although you cleaned out your tank, that pump has been submerged in the same petrol for 5 years. Fuel filter could also be gummed up.
just my $0.02 stimulus plan
yeah i did. the pump is new and i got new gas in it filter is new also and the car was my brothers. I took it because he left it there for yrs and i wanted it he didnt.
yeah i did. the pump is new and i got new gas in it filter is new also and the car was my brothers. I took it because he left it there for yrs and i wanted it he didnt.
Mybad...I should have read all posts...
Doe's your car have an IAC ??? If Yes, it may be sticking or "slow to react".....
Dayum!! Wish I had the willpower to let a vette sit for 5 years !!
Did you duck tape the FP gauge to your windshield and observe your psi's from the time you started engine to the time it died ? Although you cleaned out your tank, that pump has been submerged in the same petrol for 5 years. Fuel filter could also be gummed up.
just my $0.02 stimulus plan
Good idea....your fuel pressure seems close to where it should be though.
Did the car run before it was stored or was there a problem with the car and that was why is went into storage?
Did you pull /check the air filter to make sure it could breath?
All you need is a paper clip to check for codes...do a search here on the forum for how to do the check.
The only other thing I can offer is to unplug the MAF sensor's connector and try to start the car again...beyond that for the most part you'll need to check for stored trouble codes.
well the car ran before but then suddenly it just quit. My brother couldn't figure it out he couldnt get it to start he tried for a couple of months then quit. i later found out he changed the dist cap and pulled the dist just high enough to offset it by one tooth. and yes my car does come with a IAC. i checked the air filter and even though its old it can still breath and come to think of it my engine did run well when i fixed the dist and left that sensor thats in front of the TB off but the car backfires alot tho, but i dont know if that sensor can cause that or not.
well the car ran before but then suddenly it just quit. My brother couldn't figure it out he couldnt get it to start he tried for a couple of months then quit. i later found out he changed the dist cap and pulled the dist just high enough to offset it by one tooth. and yes my car does come with a IAC. i checked the air filter and even though its old it can still breath and come to think of it my engine did run well when i fixed the dist and left that sensor thats in front of the TB off but the car backfires alot tho, but i dont know if that sensor can cause that kind of problem or not so i put it back on and since didnt try running my engine without it because i didnt know if i should or not.
A problem with the MAF could cause the problem your describing. If the MAF has a problem it should generate/trigger a trouble code. You can unplug the MAF and see if it will run. If it does run with the sensor unplugged you could have a problem with the MAF or MAF circuit. You can clean the connector at the sensor, check the wiring or replace the relays. You can also look into, past the screens on the outside of the MAF sensor, and you should see a very very thin platnum wire that looks like a light bulb filiment inside. Look to see if the wire is still intact if not you'll need a replacement....$$$
well when i adjust the low speed idle screw on it the rpms go up high even redline sometimes then they drop and goes back up at about 2k then drops again and comes back up to 2k continously till i switch it off. This is the only way i can get the engine to continue to run.
well when i adjust the low speed idle screw on it the rpms go up high even redline sometimes then they drop and goes back up at about 2k then drops again and comes back up to 2k continously till i switch it off. This is the only way i can get the engine to continue to run.
with AGENT follow the outlines he posted, it will remove most of the guess work.
You shouldn't need to mess with the idle air screw....the screw was set at the factory and for the most part never needs to be tweaked.
well when i adjust the low speed idle screw on it the rpms go up high even redline sometimes then they drop and goes back up at about 2k then drops again and comes back up to 2k continously till i switch it off. This is the only way i can get the engine to continue to run.
Those symptoms do sound like a vacuum leak, and a bad one at that.
Take a spray bottle of water and shoot it at the injector bases. See if there is a change in pattern and if the water around injector base, gets sucked into manifold.