C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Default 1.66rr

Hello All

I installed a set of Comp Cams 1.6RR in my '84. It seems to run like a champ, but I'm now having challenges with ticking lifters. I've adjusted and re-adjusted according to the book, but I just can't get it to go away. I've tried the hot method (engine running) and I've tried the service manual method.

Am I missing anything? It doesn't tick when the car is cold, only when it warms up does it start ticking. I know which one it is I believe as one rocker in particular does not move oil like the others. Should I tighten down beyond what the book recommends in an attempt to silence the problem?

I've checked the push rod, it's straight, isn't broken or clogged.

I really don't want to replace lifters, and it didn't tick before I changed to the new 1.6RRs.

I'm just hoping there is some advice that will keep me from pulling the intake and replacing lifters this spring.

Many thanks!

your pal,

Jason
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyVette84
Hello All

I installed a set of Comp Cams 1.6RR in my '84. It seems to run like a champ, but I'm now having challenges with ticking lifters. I've adjusted and re-adjusted according to the book, but I just can't get it to go away. I've tried the hot method (engine running) and I've tried the service manual method.

Am I missing anything? It doesn't tick when the car is cold, only when it warms up does it start ticking. I know which one it is I believe as one rocker in particular does not move oil like the others. Should I tighten down beyond what the book recommends in an attempt to silence the problem?

I've checked the push rod, it's straight, isn't broken or clogged.

I really don't want to replace lifters, and it didn't tick before I changed to the new 1.6RRs.

I'm just hoping there is some advice that will keep me from pulling the intake and replacing lifters this spring.

Many thanks!

your pal,

Jason
need more info is it a flat tappet cam or roller ? hyd or solid ? lifters ? your new rockers could be hitting the valve cover!!

Last edited by "swamp rat"; Mar 9, 2009 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by "swamp rat"
your new rockers could be hitting the valve cover!!

Hitting the covers.....inspect them closely.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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I did away with the drip tabs on the valve covers. '84 has a flat tappet /hydraulic.

If it was the valve covers, wouldn't it hit them all the time vs. just after the car warms up?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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Hydrolic lifters use an oil cushion for the push rod seats. Once oil pressure fills the lifter up the pushrods seats are now higher. If it is not the hitting the valve covers look closely to see if the rocker is binding against anything....either way you'll need to pull the covers and have a good look around.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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If there is a rocker that isn't really moving oil as the rest, would that indicate a problem with the lifter vs. a problem with the valve cover? I'm not trying to be stubborn, I just want to make sure I'm getting my hands around the problem.

Make the tick go away
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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I have Scorpion 1.6 RR's and mine are noisey. My understanding is you can hear them over regular rockers. Don't know for sure!
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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Sometimes, lifters get stuck. I've heard of putting a quart of tranny fluid in with the oil to free them up.
You might also want to look at the valve springs to make sure the extra lift isn't causing coil-bind.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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The diff between 1.5 & 1.6 is .100 I can't believe you are coil binding the spring If you are then you have a bent push rod ! you can ck that !
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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I've always heard that if you go to 1.6s on an LT-1, to upgrade to the LT-4 springs. Might be for the increased spring pressure.
I don't know what you would go to on an L-98.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by "swamp rat"
The diff between 1.5 & 1.6 is .100 I can't believe you are coil binding the spring If you are then you have a bent push rod ! you can ck that !
More like .030" don't ya think?

Jake

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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If there's no interference issue, my thinking turns to oil viscosity, since it only happens when the engine has warmed up.

Once warmed up, oil viscosity lessens from what it was when cold. That lessening of viscosity could explain it.

Just to be on the safe side, how about posting the specific procedure you used in setting lifter preload. Exactly how you did it.

Jake

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
More like .030" don't ya think?

Jake

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Jake the diff between My 1.52 rockers & the new 1.6 rockers is .030
lift. yeah your right !!!
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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Other thoughts: Check the underside of the rocker arms to make sure there has been no contact with the valve spring retainer.

If there's been contact, there should be witness marks on the underside of the rocker arm(s).

Check for .060 clearance between each coil of the valve springs at max valve lift.

Also check that there is .060 clearance between the underside of the retainer and the valve guide; also at max valve lift.

Look closely at the underside of the valve cover AND the top of the rocker arms for any sign of contact.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
If there's no interference issue, my thinking turns to oil viscosity, since it only happens when the engine has warmed up.

Once warmed up, oil viscosity lessens from what it was when cold. That lessening of viscosity could explain it.

Just to be on the safe side, how about posting the specific procedure you used in setting lifter preload. Exactly how you did it.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
Jake ! don't you want the min. amount of preload on the lifter ?? so they don't float ???
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:11 PM
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It's been a long standing "racer's" trick to set preload at the minumum, something like 1/4 turn from ZERO. The thinking was it would extend lifter pump up and wouldn't cause the valve float to occur so soon.

On the other hand, there have been many cases of running the minimm amout of preload can cause the little retainer in the lifter to crash into the lifter body. Not only can this cause the tapping sound but can cause the lifter to fail over time.

I don't want to start a war over this with guys who are running the minimum amount - PLEASE. Whatever floats your boat.

A recent article written by TPIS, they now advocate preloads even greater than 1 full turn. Myron claims the RPM limit before float is increased markedly.

TPIS has now gone to the opposite end of the spectrum - Go Figure.

I remember buying one of the first sets of Rhodes lifters when then were introduced (see, now I'm telling my age, LOL) and I wrote the company a letter on my experience (It was even posted in there advertisements in the magazines).

Those suckas were NOISEY, but I found that by altering oil weigh viscosity, I could quiet them down somewhat and it also effected the amount of vacuum increase they provided.

So my thinking is that low oil viscosity, like 5w30, accompanied by low lifter preload may be at the root of his noise concern.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Its not required to change the springs on a L83 when putting on 1.6 rr's. Did mine a few years ago before changing heads.
If you had no tick before then I would first be inclined to think
1) maybe a drip edge wasn't cut all the way down
2) One off the new rr's isn't adjusted correctly

have you run it without the covers?
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
It's been a long standing "racer's" trick to set preload at the minumum, something like 1/4 turn from ZERO. The thinking was it would extend lifter pump up and wouldn't cause the valve float to occur so soon.

On the other hand, there have been many cases of running the minimm amout of preload can cause the little retainer in the lifter to crash into the lifter body. Not only can this cause the tapping sound but can cause the lifter to fail over time.

I don't want to start a war over this with guys who are running the minimum amount - PLEASE. Whatever floats your boat.

A recent article written by TPIS, they now advocate preloads even greater than 1 full turn. Myron claims the RPM limit before float is increased markedly.

TPIS has now gone to the opposite end of the spectrum - Go Figure.

I remember buying one of the first sets of Rhodes lifters when then were introduced (see, now I'm telling my age, LOL) and I wrote the company a letter on my experience (It was even posted in there advertisements in the magazines).

Those suckas were NOISEY, but I found that by altering oil weigh viscosity, I could quiet them down somewhat and it also effected the amount of vacuum increase they provided.

So my thinking is that low oil viscosity, like 5w30, accompanied by low lifter preload may be at the root of his noise concern.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
No war jake just info !!! all is considered !! I run 10w40
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 12:36 AM
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Roller Rockers have a natural tendency to tick. They sound like a sewing machine. If this is the kind of sound your hearing you're probably okay. If you are referring to something more pronounced then scope your valve train and pinpoint the noise and go from there.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 10:24 AM
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I have one rocker in mind that is the source of my problem. It pumps oil less effectively than the other rockers. That seems to be the one that is ticking on me. It pumps oil 'ok' when it's cold and as it's heated, it pumps oil a lot less 'ok'. So, I either have something adjusted incorrectly or I have a lifter that is dying.

I'll double check and just make sure it isn't hitting the valve cover, but I don't think I'll get that lucky
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