1986 Climate Control delima


It takes 2-3 hours of farting around in an awkward position, but is doable for a novice. Use the advanced search function and search "Fastguy method".
If you are up to the task, I'll post some pics and info from my experience.

It takes 2-3 hours of farting around in an awkward position, but is doable for a novice. Use the advanced search function and search "Fastguy method".
If you are up to the task, I'll post some pics and info from my experience.


Remove passenger seat
Remove lower dash panel (the one with the courtesy light)
Remove connector to temp door motor
Remove ECM ( held in by two 10mm screws, remove them and slide the ECM down and out of the way. You can disconnect it and remove it entirely)
Disconnect rod from connector at door motor arm.
Remove the door motor
Remove the tubular angle brace
Disconnect small duct-work
Remove all the screws holding plastic cover
Wrestle cover off
Re and re core and put it all back together.
The top 2 screw on cover are a bitch, knowing where they were, would have made it easier.
Here is a few pics of what you'll find.

ECM removed, door motor ready for removal.

Close up of rod connector on motor

Door motor removed, bolt for tubular brace is easily accessed now.

Pic of cover showing where the top 2 screws are located.

Cover off

http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAV'S.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAC%20Electrical.pdf

http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAV'S.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAC%20Electrical.pdf
Last edited by funlovnjim; Mar 11, 2009 at 12:21 PM.
There is some info in tech tips regarding cleaning the contacts etc in controller. I had some flaky buttons until I went inside and cleaned things up. All has been good since then (5 years)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There is some info in tech tips regarding cleaning the contacts etc in controller. I had some flaky buttons until I went inside and cleaned things up. All has been good since then (5 years)

http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAV'S.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAC%20Electrical.pdf
LMAO! I've actually seen that before, and although it's intimidating, I think I can manage. I've already been in there looking at it and I am waiting on my heater core to get here. I'm excited, and definately not afraid to get my hands dirty or learn new things. Hopefully I'll be able to post a pic of my old one...I'll figure out something creative
great pic! 
Jim, be sure to pressure test the new h/c before it goes in the car.
Once it's in the car and plumbed, maybe don't put the cowling/cover back on, drive around for a bit. Look for leaks.
Sometimes new cores are defective right out of the box or they blow within a few miles.
Have fun.
If you want to know what is involved in removing the intake manifold from an L98, I made a photo doc of my intake swap here:
http://members.***.net/effergyvette/...e_install.html
If you do pull the intake, then you should think about doing "while your in there" items, like servicing the fuel injectors, replacing the EGR valve, and replacing the fuel line "send and "return" O-rings.

Remove passenger seat
Remove lower dash panel (the one with the courtesy light)
Remove connector to temp door motor
Remove ECM ( held in by two 10mm screws, remove them and slide the ECM down and out of the way. You can disconnect it and remove it entirely)
Disconnect rod from connector at door motor arm.
Remove the door motor
Remove the tubular angle brace
Disconnect small duct-work
Remove all the screws holding plastic cover
Wrestle cover off
Re and re core and put it all back together.
The top 2 screw on cover are a bitch, knowing where they were, would have made it easier.
Here is a few pics of what you'll find.

ECM removed, door motor ready for removal.

Close up of rod connector on motor

Door motor removed, bolt for tubular brace is easily accessed now.

Pic of cover showing where the top 2 screws are located.

Cover off

i should do this as i am taking out the factory ecm.

Remove passenger seat
Remove lower dash panel (the one with the courtesy light)
Remove connector to temp door motor
Remove ECM ( held in by two 10mm screws, remove them and slide the ECM down and out of the way. You can disconnect it and remove it entirely)
Disconnect rod from connector at door motor arm.
Remove the door motor
Remove the tubular angle brace
Disconnect small duct-work
Remove all the screws holding plastic cover
Wrestle cover off
Re and re core and put it all back together.
The top 2 screw on cover are a bitch, knowing where they were, would have made it easier.
Here is a few pics of what you'll find.

ECM removed, door motor ready for removal.

Close up of rod connector on motor

Door motor removed, bolt for tubular brace is easily accessed now.

Pic of cover showing where the top 2 screws are located.

Cover off


Remove passenger seat
Remove lower dash panel (the one with the courtesy light)
Remove connector to temp door motor
Remove ECM ( held in by two 10mm screws, remove them and slide the ECM down and out of the way. You can disconnect it and remove it entirely)
Disconnect rod from connector at door motor arm.
Remove the door motor
Remove the tubular angle brace
Disconnect small duct-work
Remove all the screws holding plastic cover
Wrestle cover off
Re and re core and put it all back together.
The top 2 screw on cover are a bitch, knowing where they were, would have made it easier.
Here is a few pics of what you'll find.

ECM removed, door motor ready for removal.

Close up of rod connector on motor

Door motor removed, bolt for tubular brace is easily accessed now.

Pic of cover showing where the top 2 screws are located.

Cover off

Great instructions with pictures and thanks for sharing. Some things I experienced today while taking on this task with my 88' convert.
1) I did not remove the seat because I did not see the benefit here for I still had to lay accross the door seal with upper body under the dash. (I will understand in the morning why the seat is removed...
.)2) There are two screws at the top of the core cover that were challeging. Had to use a couple 6" - 1/4" extensions with swevil and a mirror to get to and see the the screws to remove. To re-install the screws tape the screw to the socket and once tight the tape removes easy.
3) The core has a clip at the top screwed into the plastic. This keeps the core snug in the housing. This was also challeging taking out the core and installing the new one. The clip must be pushed upwards with a flat head screw driver until you wiggle out the core. Lossen the screw that holds the clip in prior to re-installing the core. This allows you some wiggle room when stabbing the core inlet/outlet tubes through the fire wall.
4) Compare the new core to the old and adjust the inlet/outlet tubes prior to installing. Very little room to wiggle the core into place.
Other than what I listed, the pics and steps were a great big help! Not sure of any other way of changing the core. Thanks for the info and hope what I listed will help someone else.....





I ended up taking apart more than listed here. Because the bolt holding the upper end of the brace (3rd-to-last pic above) wouldn't loosen using an open-end wrench, I had to pull off the carpeted vanity panel. Not fun. (Didn't enjoy it the first time 2yrs ago. Didn't enjoy it again.)
After pulling the carpeted panel AND the ECM housing, I was able to hook a second wrench on the first open-end -- so I could get enough torque to break loose the upper end of the brace.

The two small screws at the top of the heater core were a blast too!
(But probably not nearly as hard as they would have been w/o pulling the carpeted vanity panel. (BTW...This is mounted with 4 built-in studs which point up into the dash. I can post a pic if anyone wants.)Of course, I also took off the dash as evident in the pic below. And, that brings me to my question (and reason for posting.)
In Agent 86's pic above, the ductwork in front still looks attached after removal of the heater core cover. But I don't see how to pull the cover w/o that (gravy-boat-shaped) duct coming off.

The blue line shows how long that duct extends. The red line indicates that I can't pull it to the right. (Before I got the cover loose, it also hit the circular inlet hole on the front.)
So, what's my next move?
Also, are there two screws that hold the left BIG ROUND SEMI_SPHERICAL end together? I can't see up there. (In the 2nd-to-last pic by Agent86, I'm talking about the round end pointing straight left.)
Thanks for any helpl!
BTW...I still can't get the cover out because of the piece going thru the cover -- that's a 90-degree arm off that gravy-boat ductwork-snake. (upper small red-arrow)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Aug 23, 2012 at 11:48 PM.













