C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

accel super ram plenum and base

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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:22 AM
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The pro flow XT. beat the super ram... and will also fit under the hood

Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Feb 11, 2012 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
The pro flow XT. beat the super ram... and will also fit under the hood
Is it smog legal?
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderaudio
hmmm, thought about selling mine, as dont think im going to end up doing the build. Anyone interested, i may be willing to let it go, Its COMPLETE, intake, runners, base, fuel injectors, throttle body, DFI computer with harness, laptop, and ProCharger Supercharger...
if you're throwing this out to the general population, i'm interested.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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Pro flow is not legal.. only leaving the mini ram legal..
Or finding used super rams...
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 05:15 AM
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I have it and I love it!













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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
Pro flow is not legal.. only leaving the mini ram legal..
Or finding used super rams...
The Mini Ram is not legal. The only aftermarket intake with a Calif EO number is the Super Ram. The EO covers the base, runners, plenum and 1000 CFM throttle body.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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If you're building a 396 and need to be CA legal, here's the combination I'm running in my 85. It has not been dyno'd but on paper is in the 500hp, 500 torque range. My butt gauge says it's got enough power.

Super Ram intake, TPiS 1100 CFM throttle body, Crower 221/230 roller cam, AFR 195 heads, TPiS headers and high flow main cat. I went with forged internals. The stock exhaust manifolds are a serious restriction but are necessary to pass visual. TPiS headers are a perfect match for the AFR heads and allow the use of all the stock brackets.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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Default Superram installation tips

Can someone give some tips on how to install it?

I got the runners on by taking the valve covers and half the rockers off. I am now scratching my head about trying to get all those little upside down vertical bolts in. The bolts don't appear to be metric or imperial in size so I can't even get a spanner on them.

Any info appreciated.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/superram.html

Last edited by Lemme; Mar 9, 2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Look at Vader's tips. I did a couple things to speed up the install. First, I installed studs in the runners for the inboard, middle bolts. That allows those four bolts to be tightened from the top. Then I slotted the ends of the rest of the bolts so I could use a screwdriver from the top. You should be able to use a 1/4" 12 point box end wrench to tighten.
If you get a long hex drive (6 inches or longer) you won't need to remove the rocker arms to tighten the runner to manifold bolts.

For gasket sealing, I use RTV on the gaskets between the intake manifold and the runners. I use white lithium grease on the plenum to runner gaskets and the lid. That allows me to pull the plenum and reuse the gaskets.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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All good tips! One other thing would be a ball end hex socket similar to the link below. That would allow you to be misaligned on the runner bolts and it still works OK. (I just rounded the corners slightly on the end of my std hex shaft & it worked).

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-67888.html
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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Those upside down mini bolts on the superram are 12 point 1/4" boogers. I coat mine with pipe thread (just to make sure vacuum doesn't pass through the 16 bolts. I use a 1/4" air ratchet with a swivel and 12 point socket. I can get to 12 of the 16 bolts with the air tool. For the other 4 I use a box end wrench. I leave the plenum top sealed so I don't have to deal with another million bolts. I can get the plen on and off pretty quickly this way. Willie
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:44 PM
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All great tips. I think I will go with the sealed lid option. I think my lid has been sealed with loctite and doesn't want to come off anyway.

I only have one 1/4 inch 12 point box spanner but it didn't fit so it had me scratching my head. It is a cheapy so I will have to go to the tool store and get a decent one.

I have got a long thin T40 torx bit for the runner to intake bolts so that gives me comfort about not having to remove / reinstall / reset the roller rockers all the time.

I still need to get a few 1/4 inch npt pipe plug too. Is it OK to plug the fuel regulator vacuum connection into the plenum?

Is it critical to run a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the pcv system (now that the original pipe doesn't fit because of the runners)?

Thanks heaps.
Steve

Last edited by Lemme; Mar 9, 2012 at 10:37 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Lemme
All great tips. I think I will go with the sealed lid option. I think my lid has been sealed with loctite and doesn't want to come off anyway.

I only have one 1/4 inch 12 point box spanner but it didn't fit so it had me scratching my head. It is a cheapy so I will have to go to the tool store and get a decent one.

I have got a long thin T40 torx bit for the runner to intake bolts so that gives me comfort about not having to remove / reinstall / reset the roller rockers all the time.

I still need to get a 3/8 inch pipe plug too. Is it OK to plug the fuel regulator vacuum connection into the plenum?

Is it critical to run a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the pcv system (now that the original pipe doesn't fit because of the runners)?

Thanks heaps.
Steve
Hey Steve. I use allen head runner bolts so they can be accessed off angle with a long ball ended allen wrench/socket. I don't have to remove the rockers this way. You can plug the regulator port going to the plenum. I use a breather on each valve cover. No hose, no pcv going to the throttle body. Hope this helps. Willie
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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A few guys over on thirdgen.org drill the intake "hard to get bolt holes" bigger and tap the runners so they can install the (safety wired together) "hard 2 get to" bigger bolts in the top of the pizza box with the lid off.
I coat all the "dry" TPI & SR gaskets with PAM cooking spray or motor oil so I can reuse the gaskets over and over.

Last edited by TTOP350; Mar 9, 2012 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
I use a breather on each valve cover. No hose, no pcv going to the throttle body.
I currently have a breather on the passenger side. I have put a hose to the intake and pcv valve on the drivers side. Will this throw the tuning out? Is it better to just have two breathers as you suggest?

Steve
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TTOP350
A few guys over on thirdgen.org drill the intake "hard to get bolt holes" bigger and tap the runners so they can install the (safety wired together) "hard 2 get to" bigger bolts in the top of the pizza box with the lid off.
I coat all the "dry" TPI & SR gaskets with PAM cooking spray or motor oil so I can reuse the gaskets over and over.
Lots of good ideas. Thanks.

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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Lemme
I currently have a breather on the passenger side. I have put a hose to the intake and pcv valve on the drivers side. Will this throw the tuning out? Is it better to just have two breathers as you suggest?

Steve
If you add air after the MAF it will thow off the fuel mixture.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
If you add air after the MAF it will thow off the fuel mixture.
That is what I was thinking. I will block off the intake to stop air coming in from the pcv.

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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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What was with the comment about the SR not fitting under the C4 hood and what is the fix for it?
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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The original SR is to tall for the C4 hood.. option one cut the hood.. raise the factory cowl or add one
Option 2, purchase the astronomical priced$ chopped & welded 2nd party SR
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