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I've already tried resetting the IAC, and the TPS but it didn't work for me. The TPS is @ .54 volts and idle is unknown, since the car dies instantly after starting. When it was running however, i had the idle adjusted to be 500 in park.
If i could post a video, would you guys be able to make a more accurate guess/assumption of what it is?
I think my problem is with the fuel delivery because it starts up like its brand new then it just dies.
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Mar 29, 2009 at 10:49 PM.
Is there a way to reset the IAC without running the engine? It won't run long enough to reset it, it only runs for 1-2 seconds when the EST and IAC are hooked up.
est?
how are you doing this?
have you cranked the TB set screw any?
I have tried this, and when i start it, it shoots up to about 2500 rpm and dies.
The set screw has been adjusted, when the car was running. Do you think that it could be off so much as to make the car not run?
no, since starting it with the throttle open kills it as well.
I am asking these stupid questions to get more of a feel of what might be happening.
I would try putting some starter fluid, or gas down it's throat, and see if it runs a little longer. dont flood it.
This will help you figure out if it is a fuel problem. if it runs spraying something into the throttle body. You have a fuel issue.
I suggested trying it without the MAF to see if it would run and possibly signify a vacuum leak. In a previous post you mentioned an exhaust gasket that's bad? I'm thinking you may have an air leak. Could try blowing smoke in the TB. Is the EST connector plugged in, is it damaged?
the fuel pressure holds at 39 psi after the car dies.
that MAF sensor is only 4 months old with like 1500 miles on it..what a ****in joke
the EST is plugged in, and it is not damaged. How do you blow smoke in the TB lol? SMOKE MACHINE AND STROBE LIGHTS?
I'll have to sleep on my answer for a bit.
But I'm pretty sure your MAF sensor is no good at this point.
Plug everything else back in and disconnect your battery to clear any codes but leave the MAF disconnected and try again...what happens now?
As for the smoke machine...we use them at work to find vacuum leaks by plugging it into an engine vacuum source and just wait for smoke to appear to find the leak...engine not running of course.
I'm now inclined to say put the old IAC and/or TPS back in if you can, I think you broke it?
Since it ran with the old one.
Are you sure the new connector is wired correctly?
If not the circuit in the for the IAC or TPS may be fried now.
The old IAC snapped upon removal, i had to get it drilled out. Whoever put it in overtorqued it/liquid nailed it or something because it didn't come out like it should have. I have the old TPS and will try to put that one back in.
I know the connector is wired correctly because the colors for the cables matched up and i'm not colorblind lol.
I had to just now register to tell you that your problem has been likely found.
I am an ASE certfied tech. and I use that trick on most of the older GM cars 98% of the time it turns out the MAF sensor is no good.
I have to ask though does the fuel rail still have the correct psi. after the car dies?
That is a Old "quick and dirty" trick for checking the MAF....it does not set a "code" if the signal is not accurate...the ECM has no way of knowing that a sensor is lieing (not accurate) so to speak... it simply uses info from the MAF and other sensors to adjust the amount of fuel richer or leaner according to what it "thinks" are all truthful sensors...if you had a short or open in the MAF circuit then you'd set a code...if your "new" MAF is a reman. from one of the discount auto parts stores it very well MAY be bad. You may try cleaning it with some MAF cleaner, but more then likely it's bad. I'll finish by saying this...a new MAF may completely fix your problem if you haven't broken anything else by...removing/checking electrical connectors--turning screws or replacing other parts---JMO
That is a Old "quick and dirty" trick for checking the MAF....it does not set a "code" if the signal is not accurate...the ECM has no way of knowing that a sensor is lieing (not accurate) so to speak... it simply uses info from the MAF and other sensors to adjust the amount of fuel richer or leaner according to what it "thinks" are all truthful sensors...if you had a short or open in the MAF circuit then you'd set a code...if your "new" MAF is a reman. from one of the discount auto parts stores it very well MAY be bad. You may try cleaning it with some MAF cleaner, but more then likely it's bad. I'll finish by saying this...a new MAF may completely fix your problem if you haven't broken anything else by...removing/checking electrical connectors--turning screws or replacing other parts---JMO
Your explanation sure makes alot of sense to me now, we don't get to many of these older GM's anymore.
But every time I've tried that trick the car ran just good enough to get it into the bay without pushing it.
The other thing that gets me is, the car ran before he changed the other sensors.
Alright, since this MAF is under warranty, i'll just go get another one.
Too bad they have to order it, because they did last time.
Also, this is a microtech MAF without a "hot wire" thing in it, instead its like a sheet of plastic with a little circuit board inside of it. I was told that sometimes these are better because if your Burn-off module is broken, you can just get a Microtech one and not worry about it.
I'll try cleaning it before i do anything else though.
I would try getting the right style MAF for your car. Also how long did the car sit over the winter? what dose the gas look like? try pumping some out into a clear glass container then let it sit a while check for water. It also sounds like you bought a used TPS you never know with a used electrical part. Good Luck
Last edited by floridamale; Mar 31, 2009 at 08:18 AM.