When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
the car sat from november to late february, and before i stored it, i put some of that Stabil fuel stuff in it to keep the gas fresh. there was a full tank of gas.
When i started it for the first time, it fired right off like it wasn't even sitting very long. It started on the first turn of the key.
What should i look for in the gas? how do you tell if there is water in it?
I said to try cleaning the MAF assuming (there I go again) you had the oem style MAF..i would not recommend cleaning the "hot film" style MAF...I would also recommend replacing w/oem style MAF
Water in fuel ?
As was stated before (floridamale) pump some fuel into a clear jar let it settle for a while... IF you have water.... the fuel and water will seperate leaving a distinct line between the 2 liquids
there shouldn't be any water in the gas though because it was running great before i parked it on that night, and its been the same tank of gas.
I put some gas in it after it came out of storage because i drove it around for a couple days when it was nice up here (55 degrees). I drove it down to about a half tank and then refilled it.
While i had the throttle body off, i had to clean it because it was all carboned up on the back side. I put it in my GF's dad's part washer..do you think it would wreck the gaskets for the coolant flow/ID plate that says "Tuned Port Injection" on it?
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Mar 31, 2009 at 11:07 AM.
Did you remove the IAC & TPS before you put the TB in parts washer? and I would of removed top cover also and blown out the TB you could have something blocking a passage. However the car ran before you took that off so there would be where I would look for the trouble. Good Luck
Did you remove the IAC & TPS before you put the TB in parts washer? and I would of removed top cover also and blown out the TB you could have something blocking a passage. However the car ran before you took that off so there would be where I would look for the trouble. Good Luck
Yes i removed the IAC and TPS before putting it in the parts washer.
I just started taking off the bottom plate where the coolant flows to check for blockages and one of the heads of the screws snapped off inside the TB...jesus christ. All of the other screws came out, and were all rusted.
Maybe i'll just buy a new used throttle body and start from there because this one isn't cooperating for ****.
While I would agree with all the stuff about the TPS And the IAC.
The TPS still worries me.
The IAC should not come into effect if you have the throttle cracked. (which we did and it still died)
MAF... My 90 does not have a MAF.
Get a new MAF. sounds like some funny biz in the new one.
Check for leaks around that thing. I know they go bat **** crazy if there is a leak behind it.
Could you give a little more detail on drilling out the IAC. was any metal inside in any contact with a drill bit?
While I would agree with all the stuff about the TPS And the IAC.
The TPS still worries me.
The IAC should not come into effect if you have the throttle cracked. (which we did and it still died)
MAF... My 90 does not have a MAF.
Get a new MAF. sounds like some funny biz in the new one.
Check for leaks around that thing. I know they go bat **** crazy if there is a leak behind it.
Could you give a little more detail on drilling out the IAC. was any metal inside in any contact with a drill bit?
The IAC snapped off in the hole that it goes into. I'll try to draw something up lol
that part of the sensor snapped off in the TB, and i had to take it to a machining shop to get it drilled out. It came out very easily they said, and the hole looked very clean, no metal shavings or anything inside. The iac went in very easily aswell, so i thought nothing of it.
So the cars runs for more then a second with the MAF unplugged????
I think you half way to solving the problem.
Just need a new correct MAF.
Forget the IAC untill you get this thing to idle.
the IAC just opens or closes a controlled intake leak, allowing it to hit a desired idle speed. If you cranked the TB open a little, it would be the same thing. thus bypassing anything the AIC would be doing or correcting for.
I was only just wondering if who ever drilled it could have causes some damage in there.
the car will idle all day with the MAF unplugged, but it idles at about 1200 rpm.
So you think that the IAC and everything else is fine but the MAF is shot again?
****!
Originally Posted by TWISTERUP
That is a Old "quick and dirty" trick for checking the MAF....it does not set a "code" if the signal is not accurate...the ECM has no way of knowing that a sensor is lieing (not accurate) so to speak... it simply uses info from the MAF and other sensors to adjust the amount of fuel richer or leaner according to what it "thinks" are all truthful sensors...if you had a short or open in the MAF circuit then you'd set a code...if your "new" MAF is a reman. from one of the discount auto parts stores it very well MAY be bad. You may try cleaning it with some MAF cleaner, but more then likely it's bad. I'll finish by saying this...a new MAF may completely fix your problem if you haven't broken anything else by...removing/checking electrical connectors--turning screws or replacing other parts---JMO
Hmmm let's see ...to answer your question I'll vote....YES!!