interior lights staying on
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
interior lights staying on
Any help will be great with this gremlin. The interior lights are coming on at random, which is draining the battery. It's a 86 coupe that I just brought home, and needs some resto. (new interior, paint,but overall in great shape) I have found that when the car is running and then turned off, the lights will stay off, even after the key is taken out; but as soon as the door is opened they come on and will not go off. When I slammed the hood, they went off after about a minute, but then came back on 'sometime later'. The trick i've tried today is to leave the window down, then shut off the car from outside and that seems to be working. I am guessing there is a frayed or bare wire somewhere, but I would love some direction before I go pulling out miles of spaghetti looking for the problem. Thanks all!
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
thanks for the idea, I thought there might be a timer. My original solutiion was to just pull the fuse, but 
that fuse runs almost all of the interior electrics, including the dash. So far my solution to turning off the car from outside is working, as long as I dont open the door, the lights will stay off.
that fuse runs almost all of the interior electrics, including the dash. So far my solution to turning off the car from outside is working, as long as I dont open the door, the lights will stay off.
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Sounds like you got a bad door ajar switch. Look at the tip of the switch. You should see a little nipple on the end like the one in the pic below.
If it is broken or doesn't push back out when pushed in, it's broken and needs to be replaced. Dealer item.
If it is broken or doesn't push back out when pushed in, it's broken and needs to be replaced. Dealer item.
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
I think you're absolutely right; I just found an old thread from years back and someone posed the exact same question for an '85 coupe; turned out to be a bad door switch for him then. I did look at the switch yesterday thinking it a possibility, and the tip of it looks corroded.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Belleville Wisconsin
I think you're absolutely right; I just found an old thread from years back and someone posed the exact same question for an '85 coupe; turned out to be a bad door switch for him then. I did look at the switch yesterday thinking it a possibility, and the tip of it looks corroded.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Metairie Louisiana
My lights stay on sometimes longer then they should. Other times the interior light doesnt automatically come on when the door is open. I also have a clicking noise coming from the passanger side dash occasionally. Both door switches push in okay but maybe they are sticking. Over the past year the battery was drained maybe once or twice over night. I thought I maybe left a light on.
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hmm.. This could be a problem on my 95 also. Is the little end piece supposed to stick out like that? Mine is always in.
My lights stay on sometimes longer then they should. Other times the interior light doesnt automatically come on when the door is open. I also have a clicking noise coming from the passanger side dash occasionally. Both door switches push in okay but maybe they are sticking. Over the past year the battery was drained maybe once or twice over night. I thought I maybe left a light on.
My lights stay on sometimes longer then they should. Other times the interior light doesnt automatically come on when the door is open. I also have a clicking noise coming from the passanger side dash occasionally. Both door switches push in okay but maybe they are sticking. Over the past year the battery was drained maybe once or twice over night. I thought I maybe left a light on.
I replaced a bad switch (passenger side) and fixed the problem. There's a way to replace the switch WITHOUT having to remove the door panel, but I can't recall the procedure off-hand. It's been several years ago. Anyone remember how?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Metairie Louisiana
Any way to tell which one's bad or should I just replace both while I'm at it?
I still have to do the droopy door fix on the passanger side anyway. I may redo my drivers side with the rivet method.
Please post if anyone has the method of swapping them with the door panels on. It would allow me to get to it quicker.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
the Door switches fail in three (3) different ways.
1. their adjustable 'nose' doesn't stay out, can be 'fixed' by prying out and putting 2-3 small o-rings on the adjustable 'nose' shaft.
2. the main plunger sticks, often while depressed.
3. they fail electrically -- either NOT 'closing' the circuit when popped-out, or thanks to water intrussion, 'closing' the circuit while depressed.
Since the later years (92+?) have the door switches powered by the PKE but communicating to the BCM, it can cause out-of-sync situations which can cause all sorts of odd things to happen (lights on/off/on while driving, hatch pops, alarms not working, doors not locking or unlocking, remote (FOB) not working, etc).
NOTE TO ALL, the door switches (1992-1996 for sure, and possibly 1990-1991 or earlier too) can be replaced right through the hole of the switch).
The proceedure is documented in many posts and in the FSM (if needed post back and I'll find/write it up again -- it's all about making sure the backing plate does not fall inside the door).
1. their adjustable 'nose' doesn't stay out, can be 'fixed' by prying out and putting 2-3 small o-rings on the adjustable 'nose' shaft.
2. the main plunger sticks, often while depressed.
3. they fail electrically -- either NOT 'closing' the circuit when popped-out, or thanks to water intrussion, 'closing' the circuit while depressed.
Since the later years (92+?) have the door switches powered by the PKE but communicating to the BCM, it can cause out-of-sync situations which can cause all sorts of odd things to happen (lights on/off/on while driving, hatch pops, alarms not working, doors not locking or unlocking, remote (FOB) not working, etc).
NOTE TO ALL, the door switches (1992-1996 for sure, and possibly 1990-1991 or earlier too) can be replaced right through the hole of the switch).
The proceedure is documented in many posts and in the FSM (if needed post back and I'll find/write it up again -- it's all about making sure the backing plate does not fall inside the door).
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 450
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From: SOUTH NJ
This was what was wrong with mine, as i remember i just removed the dimmer and spliced C and D wires together.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...x-85-87-a.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...x-85-87-a.html
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
That is a great detailed explanation, thanks a lot!! 
That pretty much sums up exactly what has been happening in my coupe, just strange things, lights on, then off if I close the hood, back on 10 minutes later. I think mine IS water intrusion, my car was sitting for a few years outside (before I got it of course, now the my Audi has taken up residence in the drive while the 'vette has taken up the garage!) and the weatherstripping is all shot. Sooo, if I just replace both with new OEM switches, should take care of everything? I found them on Eckler's for $19 each. I can post the link if anyone wishes.
That pretty much sums up exactly what has been happening in my coupe, just strange things, lights on, then off if I close the hood, back on 10 minutes later. I think mine IS water intrusion, my car was sitting for a few years outside (before I got it of course, now the my Audi has taken up residence in the drive while the 'vette has taken up the garage!) and the weatherstripping is all shot. Sooo, if I just replace both with new OEM switches, should take care of everything? I found them on Eckler's for $19 each. I can post the link if anyone wishes.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
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On my 89, my interior lights work fine. I think they are controlled by the white switch near the door hinge.
Though, I'm getting a door ajar warning on my dash. Sometimes it flickers. Would that be from the black plunger thing by the outside edge of the door?
It looks to be working fine. How do I figure out which door is causing the problem?
By the way, I have my door panels already off as I've been planning on pulling the outside mirrors when I get it painted.
Though, I'm getting a door ajar warning on my dash. Sometimes it flickers. Would that be from the black plunger thing by the outside edge of the door?
It looks to be working fine. How do I figure out which door is causing the problem?
By the way, I have my door panels already off as I've been planning on pulling the outside mirrors when I get it painted.
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
On my 89, my interior lights work fine. I think they are controlled by the white switch near the door hinge.
Though, I'm getting a door ajar warning on my dash. Sometimes it flickers. Would that be from the black plunger thing by the outside edge of the door?
It looks to be working fine. How do I figure out which door is causing the problem?
By the way, I have my door panels already off as I've been planning on pulling the outside mirrors when I get it painted.
Though, I'm getting a door ajar warning on my dash. Sometimes it flickers. Would that be from the black plunger thing by the outside edge of the door?
It looks to be working fine. How do I figure out which door is causing the problem?
By the way, I have my door panels already off as I've been planning on pulling the outside mirrors when I get it painted.
I would play around with the plunger while the door is open and see what happens with the lights. It should work just like a switch, light off when pressed in, on when popped out. If it is not going in and out smoothly, or the lights are intermittent and flickering instead of going on and off smooth; I'd say the switch is bad. They are cheap enough to replace anyway; especially if you've already got the door apart.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
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From: Metairie Louisiana
the Door switches fail in three (3) different ways.
1. their adjustable 'nose' doesn't stay out, can be 'fixed' by prying out and putting 2-3 small o-rings on the adjustable 'nose' shaft.
The proceedure is documented in many posts and in the FSM (if needed post back and I'll find/write it up again -- it's all about making sure the backing plate does not fall inside the door).
1. their adjustable 'nose' doesn't stay out, can be 'fixed' by prying out and putting 2-3 small o-rings on the adjustable 'nose' shaft.
The proceedure is documented in many posts and in the FSM (if needed post back and I'll find/write it up again -- it's all about making sure the backing plate does not fall inside the door).
Last night I opened both doors with the engine running. The door ajar warning light came on when each door was opened. Is this light operated by the main plunger? What is the function of the nose then?
I checked my FSM last night. It has the diagrams for the removal an reinstallation. See post below.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Apr 3, 2009 at 10:40 AM.
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From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
I took a quick look last night, no real time to do anything with the kids around!, but the plungers on both doors are exposed (the rubber cover is worn through) and there is obvious corrosion. I ordered two new ones through Ecklers (on backorder, ugh!). But, when the car is running, everything seems to work fine, it is only when the car is off and the key is out do the lights get stuck on (after opening the door that is). My solution of leaving the window down and turning off the car from outside continues to be the only way I can make wure the lights dont come back on in the middle of the night.
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada