C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

L98 No start problem

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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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Default L98 No start problem

Sorry folks, I tried using the search, but none of the returned threads had anything to do with what I was looking for...

The problem: Just tried firing up my 89 after a long winter's nap... I've been charging the battery, and it fired up instantly... almost too fast... with a big VARRROOOM!... and then died. Now it just cranks over, no fire.

Ordinarily I'd do a bunch of trouble shooting (fire/spark/O2) but this is stupid... it started fine and idled fine a couple times throughout the winter, and now this? Just thought I'd throw it out there and see if this rings a bell for anyone.

Thanks all.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Any codes?
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig
Sorry folks, I tried using the search, but none of the returned threads had anything to do with what I was looking for...

The problem: Just tried firing up my 89 after a long winter's nap... I've been charging the battery, and it fired up instantly... almost too fast... with a big VARRROOOM!... and then died. Now it just cranks over, no fire.

Ordinarily I'd do a bunch of trouble shooting (fire/spark/O2) but this is stupid... it started fine and idled fine a couple times throughout the winter, and now this? Just thought I'd throw it out there and see if this rings a bell for anyone.

Thanks all.
put an ohm meter on your injectors.. if any are shorted the ECU will shut down,, Those multec believe it or not self destruct. They should read 16 ohms +-.. if any are below 10 unhook it and try to start it up.. it will run on 5 injectors, but do not drive it.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig
Sorry folks, I tried using the search, but none of the returned threads had anything to do with what I was looking for...

The problem: Just tried firing up my 89 after a long winter's nap... I've been charging the battery, and it fired up instantly... almost too fast... with a big VARRROOOM!... and then died. Now it just cranks over, no fire.

Ordinarily I'd do a bunch of trouble shooting (fire/spark/O2) but this is stupid... it started fine and idled fine a couple times throughout the winter, and now this? Just thought I'd throw it out there and see if this rings a bell for anyone.

Thanks all.
Are you using ethanol-laced gas? If so - injectors are likely shot. Do what FIC says, if they're the original injectors (silver/gray tops) throw them out and get replacements - bosch des III from FIC.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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ALWAYS do the basic tests!!!! Use a timing light while cranking to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Connect a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve at the end of the right fuel rail and see if you have 35-42 psi and see if it holds pressure for a long time with the ign off. Rapid drop in pressure indicates leaky injector/s or defective fuel pressure regulator check valve. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) to check if the injectors are being pulsed while cranking. Spray some starter fluid into the intake while cranking and if it runs, you may have contaminated gasoline or injectors that are pulsed but not spraying.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig

The problem: Just tried firing up my 89 after a long winter's nap...
Is winter over in Manitoba already? I always thought Manitoba was a 100 meter deep ice sheet until ... ..... until .... well always.
JK
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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Have you checked for the fuse ? the Fuel pomp one perhaps ?
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by frenchyoliver
Have you checked for the fuse ? the Fuel pomp one perhaps ?
There's also two fuses for the injectors - marked inj1, inj2 all on the fuse panel. Pull em and wipe em clean with alcohol, then check em.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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Ok, no codes, injectors are reading 17 for all 8 (they are the original grey tops).

I did notice this time out that the fuel pump doesn't come on when the key is turned to 'on'... I'm sure it did the first time when it started momentarily, but it don't now. I swapped the relay out with the rad fan relay, no change.

I looked for a 'fuel pump' fuse, is there one somewhere other than the fuse box on the right side of the dash? I also pulled the injector fuses, they were good so I put them back in. ECM fuse is fine too...

so now's when you tell me it's the fuel pump right?
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tonylong
Is winter over in Manitoba already? I always thought Manitoba was a 100 meter deep ice sheet until ... ..... until .... well always.
JK
Sure feels like it! We can usually see dirt by March... if I didn't have 1.5 miles of dirt (mud right now) road to the highway I'd be cruisin' already... if it would start that is.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig
Ok, no codes, injectors are reading 17 for all 8 (they are the original grey tops).

I did notice this time out that the fuel pump doesn't come on when the key is turned to 'on'... I'm sure it did the first time when it started momentarily, but it don't now. I swapped the relay out with the rad fan relay, no change.

I looked for a 'fuel pump' fuse, is there one somewhere other than the fuse box on the right side of the dash? I also pulled the injector fuses, they were good so I put them back in. ECM fuse is fine too...

so now's when you tell me it's the fuel pump right?
did you check your fuel pressure?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
did you check your fuel pressure?
I don't have a fuel pressure tester, but I didn't see the point in checking it if the fuel pump isn't coming on with the key. I'm thinking there's either another fuse/relay that I don't know about, or the pump is toast?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cdig
Ok, no codes, injectors are reading 17 for all 8 (they are the original grey tops).

I did notice this time out that the fuel pump doesn't come on when the key is turned to 'on'... I'm sure it did the first time when it started momentarily, but it don't now. I swapped the relay out with the rad fan relay, no change.

I looked for a 'fuel pump' fuse, is there one somewhere other than the fuse box on the right side of the dash? I also pulled the injector fuses, they were good so I put them back in. ECM fuse is fine too...

so now's when you tell me it's the fuel pump right?
You should have a fuse in the right hand dash fuse panel. Mine is located in the bottom right corner of panel, 10 amps.

If you supply 12 volts to terminal "G", on the ALDL connector, the pump should run until the 12 volts is removed. Comes in handy when diagnosing fuel delivery problems.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
You should have a fuse in the right hand dash fuse panel. Mine is located in the bottom right corner of panel, 10 amps.

If you supply 12 volts to terminal "G", on the ALDL connector, the pump should run until the 12 volts is removed. Comes in handy when diagnosing fuel delivery problems.

I'll try that tonight after work. What I did notice when jumping A-B to get the codes is that the rad fan came on with the key... when I pull the jumper out and turn the key back on, no rad fan. Is this normal or an indication of a problem?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cdig
I'll try that tonight after work. What I did notice when jumping A-B to get the codes is that the rad fan came on with the key... when I pull the jumper out and turn the key back on, no rad fan. Is this normal or an indication of a problem?
Normal. Assuming you have a volt meter or test light check for power at the fuel pump.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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I couldn't wait till after work. Checked the fuse in the bottom right of the fuse box labelled "FR" (Fuel Relay?), it's fine. Put 12v to G on the ALDL, nothing from the pump.

Guess I'll pick up a fuel pump and filter on the way home and check for power at the pump when I get home.

Thanks everyone for your help.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig
I don't have a fuel pressure tester, but I didn't see the point in checking it if the fuel pump isn't coming on with the key. I'm thinking there's either another fuse/relay that I don't know about, or the pump is toast?
When you turn the key, you should hear a CLICK from your Fuel pump relay...no click, no power....backtrack from there...you may want to check grounds and connections...I had the same symptons as you are and it turned out to be a dirty connector...aside from that you may want to look at the wire(s) that go from your ignition switch to the fuel system...on mine it is a pink/white wire and has to do with the sequence needed for ignition...sometimes they can be shorted or broken or just disconnected...

Last edited by JeepCycle; Apr 9, 2009 at 02:43 PM.
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To L98 No start problem

Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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So I went out this morning prepared to spend the day with a test light checking wires. I turned the key on to see if the fuel relay is clicking, and the pump started humming. Cranked it over and she fired up!

I haven't done anything to it other than what i've mentioned, so I am at a loss... could it be a bad VATS key chip that maybe works intermittently? Could the fuel pump be on it's way out and fail only once in a while? I went around and wiggled all the injector connectors, fuel up wires, fuel relay wires, etc while it was running. Didn't so much as sputter... now I'm a little scared to take it out, b/c I don't know when it's going to leave me stranded.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cdig
could it be a bad VATS key chip that maybe works intermittently?
VATS only takes out starter and injectors
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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The vats only disables the starter system and not the injectors also. I just pushed started the car today due to the vats, so I know.
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