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OK, working on removing the intake. I'm at the distributo and I want to make sure that I get this right so I don't screw up the timing. I've got the dist body marked to an area on the firewall so I know where that is.
Next I rotated the engine to what I think is TDC for #1, I have the timing mark on 0 degrees on the timing marks. I think this is the right sequence.
Before I pull the distributor I wanted to double check the position so I heck where the rotor is pointing. It is pointing right back towards the firewall?????? Close to 12 o'clock looking from the top.
According to my Haynes manual the firing order puts #1 location of the distributor at about 5 o'clock. I'm not ready to pul this thing if I've got something wrong.
OK, working on removing the intake. I'm at the distributo and I want to make sure that I get this right so I don't screw up the timing. I've got the dist body marked to an area on the firewall so I know where that is.
Next I rotated the engine to what I think is TDC for #1, I have the timing mark on 0 degrees on the timing marks. I think this is the right sequence.
Before I pull the distributor I wanted to double check the position so I heck where the rotor is pointing. It is pointing right back towards the firewall?????? Close to 12 o'clock looking from the top.
According to my Haynes manual the firing order puts #1 location of the distributor at about 5 o'clock. I'm not ready to pul this thing if I've got something wrong.
Someone set me straight!!!!!
You are at tdc on the intake stroke for the #1 cylinder. The crankshaft goes around twice for every 1 camshaft rotation. Spin the crank one whole turn until the timing mark is a tdc and you will be where you want to be with the rotor pointing to the #1 wire on the distributor. Next time, you can pull plug #1 and as you turn the crank you will feel compression as you near tdc #1. Hope this makes sense.
That makes perfect sense I didn't even consider the crank to cam ratio. I'll be on it tomorrow.
The one thing I found odd was with all the plugs in but the runners and plenum removed I'm able to spin the motor easier than I expected, I'm using a long breaker bar, maybe 24" or so but just thought that it would be more difficult.
It doesn't really matter where you pull the dizzy, as long as you mark locations and do not turn the motor after removal. If you mark the base of dizzy to intake, rotor to dizzy and where rotor stops turning when dizzy is pulled, it will go back very close to original.
It doesn't really matter where you pull the dizzy, as long as you mark locations and do not turn the motor after removal. If you mark the base of dizzy to intake, rotor to dizzy and where rotor stops turning when dizzy is pulled, it will go back very close to original.
Very true, except it the motor is turned, it will be a little harder to find the correct timing for starting. If everything is marked at tdc and the crank position is turned, it will be quick and easy to return the distributor to the original timing position.
I really never trust the timing mark on its own; I have had my harmonic balancer slip which moves the mark. I always find TDC #1 using a compression gauge then use the mark as a double check to make sure the balancer is still good.
Usually, I take the driver valve cover off and cranked the motor until the number 1 INT/EXH valves were still, and the pointer was at 0 on the balancer.
A couple of time I have put a piece of masking tape on the back of the plenum and then pointed the rotor at it and drawn a sharpie mark to align with the rotor, and did the same with the distributor shaft on the lower intake,,
Either way, but I have always double checked the timing when I was done.
I wanted to get that TDC #1 reference as I might install new RR's and then I may be rotating the engine during adjustment. But I might just get the intake back in place and the distributor before that, not sure yet on the order.