C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Cylinder Head Install

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Old May 25, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #21  
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There's nothing wrong with taking a little extra time, but modern (OEM) engine building (which includes the L98) doesn't roll or retorque or do anything other than apply the correct torque with clean fasteners and threads. Thread cleaning tools have been on the market for 6 or 7 years now and are preferred over a tap as they don't remove metal. The sealant that's used on the bolts (and aftermarket headbolts often have it allready applied) is used as the lubricant. Retorquing raises the possibility of ruining the seal - which is needed to prevent corrosion. With everything clean, you should follow the bolt pattern and torque in 1/3's. Also, to save a little grief, install the plugs before you install the heads.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 02:08 PM
  #22  
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plugs before the head?are you talking about a in car head swap?
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Old May 25, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #23  
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Well one side is on! Used original bolts cleaned with wire wheel. I used permatex high temp sealant and put a bit of oil under the bolt head for proper torque reading. I used two torque wrenches one to check the other, ran the down to 50, 55, 60, 65 on the inner bolts.

I did have one scary moment when I looked at the head and thought maybe there was a "side" to them, but after review the original pics I think all is good. Right in the middle of the head there is an arrow cast in the head, that made me think that they had to be reversed, but I checked the other and they are the same!

I'd be on the other one but that small tube of sealant only get you through one head! Got to hit the parts store. I'll post more pics soon, thanks for the help.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #24  
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"plugs before the head?are you talking about a in car head swap?"

That's what's going on here and I'm talking about installing the spark plugs on the heads before you install them. Lessens the risk of crossthreading and it's the only time you'll get a torque wrench on all 8 of them.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html

"..new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."
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Old May 25, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html

"..new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."

I found out the hard way. After I lost a motor.
Builder took new main studs out of the box, lubed and torqued them, then align honed it.
I received the block back, and bore guaged everything. It was perfect.
During the build, I assembled, and disassembled everything many times for mock up purposes.
Fired the motor, and blackened the crank. The lack of rolling in, caused the oil clearance to go away after the mock up process.
For me, lesson learned. All of the pro builders I know, roll them in.
Except for the one that cost me a motor. He works on volume, and does not guarantee his work.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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OK, got the heads on but just looked and saw something I think is a problem



Just to the side of the exhaust bolt hole there is a threaded opening and I see a "W" in the casting above it! Is this an open water jacket port that got removed by the machine shop for cleaning and should have been plugged?

I was able to stick the end of a test light into the hole at least 1/2"

Help appreciated.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:26 PM
  #28  
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Here is the progress. Next is rockers



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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
OK, got the heads on but just looked and saw something I think is a problem



Just to the side of the exhaust bolt hole there is a threaded opening and I see a "W" in the casting above it! Is this an open water jacket port that got removed by the machine shop for cleaning and should have been plugged?

I was able to stick the end of a test light into the hole at least 1/2"

Help appreciated.
No plug needed. You are fine. Press on with pride.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
No plug needed. You are fine. Press on with pride.
Really, OK. Then what the heck is that for????? I do feel better though now that you said that.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
Really, OK. Then what the heck is that for????? I do feel better though now that you said that.
I believe some old manifolds had a different bolt pattern, and used those holes.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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OK, I know now, thanks Pete!
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Old May 25, 2009 | 08:43 PM
  #33  
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you put the heads on the wrong side.

Last edited by jeffp1167; May 25, 2009 at 08:46 PM.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jeffp1167
you put the heads on the wrong side.
How so?????

I saw no identifying marks for side? Also I was worried about that and asked and all information said they are the same to both side????
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
How so?????

I saw no identifying marks for side? Also I was worried about that and asked and all information said they are the same to both side????
the heads are the same dont be worried but look where your temp sensor is. or is that a aux. cooling fan sensor? I said that cause there isnt anything there on my 90 just a plug.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffp1167
the heads are the same dont be worried but look where your temp sensor is. or is that a aux. cooling fan sensor? I said that cause there isnt anything there on my 90 just a plug.

I took both sensors out before sending them to the machine shop, so I looked at the pictures of the before and got the sensor back in the proper spots to match the before image.

Gotta tell ya, I got a bit freeked when you posted that. In the future please be clear, your first post sounded awful definite about these being on the wrong side.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:38 PM
  #37  
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No "L" or "R" side for Chevy heads (specifically) that Im aware of.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
I took both sensors out before sending them to the machine shop, so I looked at the pictures of the before and got the sensor back in the proper spots to match the before image.

Gotta tell ya, I got a bit freeked when you posted that. In the future please be clear, your first post sounded awful definite about these being on the wrong side.
oh okay u have a pre90 car then. is that a sensor for a second fan or something? On the 90 up there is a plug there is all.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:54 PM
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Not sure exactly the two roles but there is one on the front driver side, I think that is the typical water temp sending unit, the other is back passenger side, just a clip-on one wire type thing, not sure but it is obviously related to water temp.
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Old May 26, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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They're the same (all heads are) and only go on one way. Left side threaded port was used for (optional) fan switch '87 - '89. Right for the Temp Gage Sender. Reversed on the '86 (iron head). '90 - '91 plugs it. The only thing that matters is the length of the harness; ie, you can put switch/sender on either side.
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