When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They're the same (all heads are) and only go on one way. Left side threaded port was used for (optional) fan switch '87 - '89. Right for the Temp Gage Sender.
Yep that's what I've got. Moving on to rockers and exhaust now. I marked the balancer for the 4 locations so it should make the valve adjustment more precise.
What about lifter height changes considering the engine as been down for 3 weeks! There hasn't been oil flowing to pump them up. I'm pretty certain these are hydraulic lifters. Do I need to factor that in on the adjustment?
Yep that's what I've got. Moving on to rockers and exhaust now. I marked the balancer for the 4 locations so it should make the valve adjustment more precise.
What about lifter height changes considering the engine as been down for 3 weeks! There hasn't been oil flowing to pump them up. I'm pretty certain these are hydraulic lifters. Do I need to factor that in on the adjustment?
No. You are adjusting them to zero lash (PLUS 1/2 TURN OR SO), and the plungers don't change height if the lifters bleed down.
the only heads that I know of are 84 - 86 e heads where accessory bolt holes are drilled on one end only. your alum. heads are non specific. Those rockers and exhaust look great.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by Pete K
Bolts act as springs. When torqued (within their limit), they stretch. When they are loosened, they return to their origional size.
You don't need bolts, unless yours were compromised.
If you choose to buy new bolts, they must be torqued, and loosened 3x to proprly roll in the threads.
Pulling them out of the package, and torquing them to spec will not allow for full torque value.
Save your money for beer.
Just to be clear, the stretch comment above only applies to bolts that are not TTY (torque-to-yield) correct? And, are you saying all C4 vettes use standard vs TTY head bolts (or is this comment aimed specifically at the OP's model year)?
Just to be clear, the stretch comment above only applies to bolts that are not TTY (torque-to-yield) correct? And, are you saying all C4 vettes use standard vs TTY head bolts (or is this comment aimed specifically at the OP's model year)?
gp
Yes.
I am not saying all c4 vettes used "normal" bolts. I am unclear exactly when GM went to the TTY head bolts on small block chevy. I think it occurred in 1997 for the ls1, but just a guess on my part.
when you grind the valve covers for clearance be careful that magnesium dust can burn you really bad if it ignites.
Yeah, saw a posting about that, I'm not sure what I'll use to get into the cover and cut down the drop tabs, I guess a dremmel with a cut off disc. Can't fit my air cut off tool in there.
Yeah, saw a posting about that, I'm not sure what I'll use to get into the cover and cut down the drop tabs, I guess a dremmel with a cut off disc. Can't fit my air cut off tool in there.
at least buy yourself some welding gloves before you attempt it.
OK, got the plugs in some of the coolant hoses on the bottom and dropped on the intake, that went better than I thought it would not that bad a job.
I put the distributor in but I'n not 100% on the position, The engine is at TDC for #1 and it should be pointing between 5 and 6 o'clock looking at the motor from above.
Can anyone offer their opening from the picture if they thin this is right.
Is there any way to confirm that you are in the right slot of the distributor other than firing it up????
Remember that a four stroke is at TDC twice. You must be at TDC on the compression stroke. IE both valves closed.
Originally Posted by Dolfan
OK, got the plugs in some of the coolant hoses on the bottom and dropped on the intake, that went better than I thought it would not that bad a job.
I put the distributor in but I'n not 100% on the position, The engine is at TDC for #1 and it should be pointing between 5 and 6 o'clock looking at the motor from above.
Can anyone offer their opening from the picture if they thin this is right.
Is there any way to confirm that you are in the right slot of the distributor other than firing it up????
Yes.
I am not saying all c4 vettes used "normal" bolts. I am unclear exactly when GM went to the TTY head bolts on small block chevy. I think it occurred in 1997 for the ls1, but just a guess on my part.
You are correct Pete. Except I'm pretty sure the LT5 used TTY bolts (I'm sure if I'm wrong a ZR1 guy will correct me) which I know has little relevence to this particular thread.
Remember that a four stroke is at TDC twice. You must be at TDC on the compression stroke. IE both valves closed.
thats where mine points for #1 ... just turn motor over till #1 intake valve starts to open. then by hand turn crankshaft clockwise till the timing mark lines up with "0" even if it's off the distributor can be pulled easily with everything together. Oh and make sure you connect that 4 wire EST connector before you put more together it was buried on my 90 and real hard to reconnect after it was all back together.
#1 on the dizzy is completely variable based on where you install the cap and put the #1 plug wire. It could be anywhere.
If the motor is at TDC #1 then install #1 where the rotor is pointing. If you want to have #1 somewhere else, pull out the dizzy, rotate the pointer and install again.
If you need to verify TDC there are tips mentioned here, but it sounds like you are sure of where it is.
I think I've got it right, I still had the cap with the wires to the driver side clinder attached. From that I could determine which wires were 1,3,5,7. So I put the cap on and put a mark at the bottom of the dizzy body right at the #1 post. Then I lined up on this. I think I may have been off one tooth in my previous install.
We'll find out when I fire it I guess!
Disappointing weekend progress, didn't get much done!!!!!! And now I've misplaced the fuel rail bolts, figured that out about 2 hours ago!!! Any one no the size in case I need to replace?
make sure you check all your fuel rail O-rings and diaphram before installing it ..... just cheap insurance. ... Oh and plug the IAT sensor in under the plenum before you bolt it on cause it is a bitch to plug the harness in if you forget.