Cylinder Head Install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Cylinder Head Install
Alright, thanks to everyone who helped with comments during the tear down.
how-does-this-L98-look
Now I'm getting ready to assemble, I've got gaskets and I've cleaned up my engine bay.
I want to reassemble with clean bolt but the original GM assembly used a sealant that seems pretty tough. What is recommended for cleaning of any remaining sealant.
Anything to soak the threads in to loosen the stuff? Solvent?
Wire wheel?
I know that a clean bolt will give a better torque reading.
how-does-this-L98-look
Now I'm getting ready to assemble, I've got gaskets and I've cleaned up my engine bay.
I want to reassemble with clean bolt but the original GM assembly used a sealant that seems pretty tough. What is recommended for cleaning of any remaining sealant.
Anything to soak the threads in to loosen the stuff? Solvent?
Wire wheel?
I know that a clean bolt will give a better torque reading.
Last edited by Dolfan; May 25, 2009 at 04:28 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: Nashua NH
wire wheel will clean them up nice but you will need to apply sealant like Permatex to all bolts prior to install. A thread chaser will also clean them up, but most people don't have those. Also depending on the year, later model Chevy's use a torque-to-yield bolt, which means use them once and that's it. They CANNOT be retorqued. Check with Helms manual or local parts store to verify if they are this style or not.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
wire wheel will clean them up nice but you will need to apply sealant like Permatex to all bolts prior to install. A thread chaser will also clean them up, but most people don't have those. Also depending on the year, later model Chevy's use a torque-to-yield bolt, which means use them once and that's it. They CANNOT be retorqued. Check with Helms manual or local parts store to verify if they are this style or not.
Any code or identifing mark?
Permatex makes a really good "High Performance Thread Sealer" in a
tube....good stuff.
tube....good stuff.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
I did clean them today putting a wire wheel on my drill press, I think they cleaned up pretty well. I think I'll go with these now.
Question: now that the heads are back is there a true left/right side???? I'll have to review my pictures?????
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
I think I agree if I had modified the motor significantly, but all I've done is a stock rebuild except the 1.6 rockers. No compression increase, no forced induction. I agree on the insurance but also the spending needs to stop sometime!
I did clean them today putting a wire wheel on my drill press, I think they cleaned up pretty well. I think I'll go with these now.
Question: now that the heads are back is there a true left/right side???? I'll have to review my pictures?????
I did clean them today putting a wire wheel on my drill press, I think they cleaned up pretty well. I think I'll go with these now.
Question: now that the heads are back is there a true left/right side???? I'll have to review my pictures?????
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 2
From: High Ridge Missouri
No the heads are the same left and right. Just check to see if the plug is still in the coolant port between the exhaust ports, if so put that head on the left and the one with the open port on the right to accept your sensor/switch.
My suggestion had nothing to do related to performance. It had to do with the fact that the bolts have already been stretched and put through many heat cycles, and where as your right, replacing isn't absolutely necessary it is on the other hand suggested.
If you have one head bolt fail and have to to replace even a single head gasket again at the minumum your looking at an intake gasket kit, a headgasket, valve cover gasket, fluids, cleaning materials and now you're definintely buying head bolts. Add all that up (not including your time, and hoping it doesn't do any engine damage) and at the minimum your at four times the cost of a set of head bolts. Again though it's your car, your money, your time and it's only my opinion.
My suggestion had nothing to do related to performance. It had to do with the fact that the bolts have already been stretched and put through many heat cycles, and where as your right, replacing isn't absolutely necessary it is on the other hand suggested.
If you have one head bolt fail and have to to replace even a single head gasket again at the minumum your looking at an intake gasket kit, a headgasket, valve cover gasket, fluids, cleaning materials and now you're definintely buying head bolts. Add all that up (not including your time, and hoping it doesn't do any engine damage) and at the minimum your at four times the cost of a set of head bolts. Again though it's your car, your money, your time and it's only my opinion.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Ultraviolet, you are right on. I guess I'm giving the GM engineers a bit of credit thinking that at 75K miles the bolt have something left. If I could get then locally and not have to wait on shipping it might be worth it. I have seem GM sets for as little as $35 or so.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
You don't need bolts, unless yours were compromised.
If you choose to buy new bolts, they must be torqued, and loosened 3x to proprly roll in the threads.
Pulling them out of the package, and torquing them to spec will not allow for full torque value.
Save your money for beer.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 2
From: High Ridge Missouri
Sorry to hijack
Pete
I've seen in previous threads where you've referenced rolling in new head bolts and I even copied and saved the procedure for future reference. I am by no means questioning your knowledge, but I've talked to a couple engine builders, a couple of forum members, the supplier of my heads and even referenced AFR when installing their heads using the new suggested ARP fasteners and everyone has told me this isn't necessary. I was instructed to tighten the headbolts in four passes progressively ending at 65ftlbs and make one final pass verifying the 65ftlbs.
Again I'm not questioning you I just want to know why you use this procedure and some don'tand have no problems. I'm just trying to decide on the correct procedure for me, as I'm currently working on my build.
Pete
I've seen in previous threads where you've referenced rolling in new head bolts and I even copied and saved the procedure for future reference. I am by no means questioning your knowledge, but I've talked to a couple engine builders, a couple of forum members, the supplier of my heads and even referenced AFR when installing their heads using the new suggested ARP fasteners and everyone has told me this isn't necessary. I was instructed to tighten the headbolts in four passes progressively ending at 65ftlbs and make one final pass verifying the 65ftlbs.
Again I'm not questioning you I just want to know why you use this procedure and some don'tand have no problems. I'm just trying to decide on the correct procedure for me, as I'm currently working on my build.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
Sorry to hijack
Pete
I've seen in previous threads where you've referenced rolling in new head bolts and I even copied and saved the procedure for future reference. I am by no means questioning your knowledge, but I've talked to a couple engine builders, a couple of forum members, the supplier of my heads and even referenced AFR when installing their heads using the new suggested ARP fasteners and everyone has told me this isn't necessary. I was instructed to tighten the headbolts in four passes progressively ending at 65ftlbs and make one final pass verifying the 65ftlbs.
Again I'm not questioning you I just want to know why you use this procedure and some don'tand have no problems. I'm just trying to decide on the correct procedure for me, as I'm currently working on my build.
Pete
I've seen in previous threads where you've referenced rolling in new head bolts and I even copied and saved the procedure for future reference. I am by no means questioning your knowledge, but I've talked to a couple engine builders, a couple of forum members, the supplier of my heads and even referenced AFR when installing their heads using the new suggested ARP fasteners and everyone has told me this isn't necessary. I was instructed to tighten the headbolts in four passes progressively ending at 65ftlbs and make one final pass verifying the 65ftlbs.
Again I'm not questioning you I just want to know why you use this procedure and some don'tand have no problems. I'm just trying to decide on the correct procedure for me, as I'm currently working on my build.
If your sources are correct, you will waste 15 minutes of your time.
If I am correct, I may have saved you a motor.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
In a perfect world, we would be able to stretch them, as we would an arp rod bolt. Not possible though.
I can write a novel on my experiences. Most as a result of some type of failure.
I am convinced through these failures/experiences that new bolts provide excess friction. Excess friction causes the torque wrench to click sooner than it should, resulting in a bolt that is not properly stretched. Stretch value is what we desire, but torque is our simplest way to convert friction to bolt stretch.
I can write a novel on my experiences. Most as a result of some type of failure.
I am convinced through these failures/experiences that new bolts provide excess friction. Excess friction causes the torque wrench to click sooner than it should, resulting in a bolt that is not properly stretched. Stretch value is what we desire, but torque is our simplest way to convert friction to bolt stretch.