distributer woes
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
distributer woes
well ive changed the intake and plenom gaskets now i cant get the car to run, ive pulled the distributor out and back in 1o times the only way i can get it to barley run is if i have it turned so far back that the nub where the wires plug into the hei almost touch the fire wall im pulling my hair out, could i just be off one tooth, where should that hei plugs be? pointing twords the drivers side right?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,293
Likes: 240
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
I posted a link for spark wires and info here >> http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-position.html
You might find it useful.
You might find it useful.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 190
From: Custer, WI
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
If you have had your distributor in and out 10 times, it sounds like you are just guessing or hoping the distributor and rotor will line itself up and the car will run. Pull the distributor and turn the motor over to tdc with the #1 valves closed. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointed to the #1 plug wire. This will get you close. See if you can get the car started. You may need to rotate the distributor a few degrees either way. Once it runs, unplug the previously mentioned wire and use a timing light and time the motor to 6 degrees btdc or whatever. Tighten up the distributor, reconnect the connector and go driving. Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Chapin South Carolina
If you have had your distributor in and out 10 times, it sounds like you are just guessing or hoping the distributor and rotor will line itself up and the car will run. Pull the distributor and turn the motor over to tdc with the #1 valves closed. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointed to the #1 plug wire. This will get you close. See if you can get the car started. You may need to rotate the distributor a few degrees either way. Once it runs, unplug the previously mentioned wire and use a timing light and time the motor to 6 degrees btdc or whatever. Tighten up the distributor, reconnect the connector and go driving. Good luck.
Also realize that the oil sling in the bottom is not tied to anything, so it is probably off alignment with the timing and you will need to realign it once you know where the #1 position is on the car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Use a long screwdriver or oil pump primer to rotate the oil pump's shaft extension counter clockwise to get it to drop in on the correct cam/distributor tooth set you want.....it is not difficult after you embrace the fact that everything rotates as it is dropped in....factor a partial rotation until/before engagement when adjusting the pump shaft.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
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From: moraga ca
Loosen the distributor and carefully pull it out. When the rotor stops turning move it slightly clockwise and reseat the distributor. This will move it one tooth advanced (if you're that far off, you may need to shoot for 2 teeth. Turn the motor until the distributor drops and is completely seated (oil pump engauged). Snug it up, put the cap on and try running it now.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,293
Likes: 240
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,745
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
I have always marked the distributor and inlet manifold then rotor position . nearly all the time the sistributor doesnt go back in properly and you need to turn the oil pump shaft a bit to get the distributor in corectly ... so next time mark it with a texta or scrape a spot and you cant go wrong . so when you get it at tdc and put rhe distributor in you will find there is a mark on the inlet manifold for the rotor button to lign up with . in future it will be easy if you mark the position before removal and your setting wont have changed
good luck
good luck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Car is timed now but idles rough when warmed up jst changed wires cap rotor o2 sensor cleaned iac new fuel pump, when running i put a vacuum gauge on regulator hose shows zero vacuum on air pump vacuum line shows 15-17 hg what do i do now?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,293
Likes: 240
From: Summerland B.C. Canada