C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Engine removal question

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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine removal question

Hello guys,

After replacing warped heads, and blown head gaskets, my 86 was pulling like a beast for the last few months. Then about a month ago, it's starts making this strange squeaking, grinding type of sound. Brought it to my friends shop, informs me i have a spun bearing, need a rebuild. I tore it down to the block last week, it's just about ready to come out. I still have to take out the bell housing bolts, and motor mounts. My question is this: Has anyone out there ever pulled the engine & trans at the same time? I've done it like that before, on a 68 chevelle, it was actually easier than removing bell housing bolts while still in vehicle. I was told by a few people that i would not be able to remove them both at the same time with the vette, "not enough room"
Is that the case? The bell housing bolts look like they are going to be VERY tough to remove while engine is still in car. I plan on doing this tomorrow morning, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Leave the trans behind, unless it's in need of repair. On my manual trans 86, I just unbolted the 4 bolts from trans to bell, and pulled the motor straight forward and out the side.
If you don't have to mess with the C beam, DON'T !!
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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You need a reeeaaaall long extension and a wobble socket. 9/16. Get at those bolts from the bottom that way.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Blastoff
I tore it down to the block last week, it's just about ready to come out. I still have to take out the bell housing bolts, and motor mounts.
If you are down to the block you can get the top 4 bellhousing bolts with a open ender;
Tedious , one flat at a time until loose but doable.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:09 PM
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C-beam is not as bad as people make it out to be.

Way easier to R&R the engine as an assembly vs tearing it down in the car. With a little practice it takes about 8 hours from start to "on the stand". Reverse for the install.



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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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I'd rather pull and replace my engine than change my 6 u-joints.

As stated earlier pulling engine on C4 is CAKE

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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
As stated earlier pulling engine on C4 is CAKE





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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I was able to remove the bolts from the top with an open end, and universal { wobble } ratchet adaptor. It was kinda tough, but i got them out. The sun just broke through the clouds, was raining all morning. I'm going out now to pull this thing.
Thanks again for the input. Nice pics by the way.

Mike
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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just putting this out there. i hate all you people with a nice garage to work on your beautiful vettes in..
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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When i did the heads a few months back, it rained EVERY DAY. I park my van next to it, so i can put things away fast during downpours. I have to bring the engine to a garage when it's out, theres NO WAY i'll be able to do this outside.

Mike
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pr0zac
just putting this out there. i hate all you people with a nice garage to work on your beautiful vettes in..
I feel you there.

For years I had only a carport to work under. Plain and simply sucked!

I do no have a nice garage to work in , and it is sooooo much easier to do big work. O and a side perk would be the car stays much cleaner too!




*EDIT*

What is the name of / where can I buy one of those plates that are being used to pull those LTx motors?

I am getting ready to do a ton of work and honestly , it looks like pulling the motor and doing the work will be easier then doing it in place.

Last edited by 92ZR1WANNABE; Sep 17, 2009 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 92ZR1WANNABE
What is the name of / where can I buy one of those plates that are being used to pull those LTx motors?

That's the TPIS "Happy Hooker"
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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Hey guys,
I pulled the engine and started shopping around for a short block. My question is about roller cams and lifters. I found a very reasonable price on ebay for a short block with a roller cam. It's actually $50 more for the non-roller version. I was wondering if it would be better to buy the roller version, and just buy a set of roller lifters. Would i have to do anything other than buy new lifters to convert to a roller engine? Or is it more involved than that?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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If you're suggesting putting roller lifters on a flat tappet cam? No, not a good idea.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Hey shumacher,
No thats not what i meant. My question was: If i buy this shortblock with the roller cam installed, do i need to do anything other than buy roller lifters to make it work? The stock engine, that was just pulled has a flat tappet cam, and lifters.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Blastoff
Hey guys,
I pulled the engine and started shopping around for a short block. My question is about roller cams and lifters. I found a very reasonable price on ebay for a short block with a roller cam. It's actually $50 more for the non-roller version. I was wondering if it would be better to buy the roller version, and just buy a set of roller lifters. Would i have to do anything other than buy new lifters to convert to a roller engine? Or is it more involved than that?

Thanks,
Mike
Buy the roller cam short block. You will need roller cam, roller lifters, retainer plates and a spider plate. Good news is GM performance parts sells an entire kit with lifters and the parts necessary to retain the lifters.

Mike
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