I'm finally getting to the job I've talking excessively about to any car guy whose crossed my path for the last year, HEADERS and true dual exhaust!! (previously bone stock and a few times falling off) I'll be upgrading this thread throughout the entire project.

My setup primarily is going to be Hedman Hedders 68448 (no smog) to Pypes Performance SCC40R.

I've been looking to this thread religiously for info ever since deciding on the hedders. Page 2 specifically has a great walkthrough, translated from a swedish website. From this it appears I can actually keep the stock starter. (we'll see about that when I get there)

I figure no point keeping the air/egr system especially since my car doesn't go for smog inspections anymore because of its age, its just sitting there cluttering the engine bay.

I'm at school at Iowa State right now and my Dad is doing all the prep work in Illinois, hes been relying on me primarily to research for what he's doing in the prep work (the least I could do), so when I come home for Thanksgiving Break we can just focus on getting the new exhaust on the car.

He's got the old exhaust laying on the ground right now (except stock headers), and by the time you read this the entire air pump system should be out (replaced with AIR pump delete pulley). The EGR system however is a mystery to me, does he have to take the TPI off, pull the EGR Valve, and put a blockoff plate down? Any tips for emissions removal greatly appreciated.

His next step will be pulling those original headers off.

I also had a couple more questions for the forum veterans.
1) I didn't see an O2 bung, on the header pictures, I assume I'll have to go to an exhaust shop and have one welded in?
2) I've seen alot of guys go with the Fel Pro Gaskets, are they worth the extra $20, over the gaskets that come with the headers?
3) I've read that some people use Locking Fasteners, once again are they worth the extra $46 over the bolts from Hedman?

 

Swapping the headers should be no big deal. I installed TPiS headers recently in my 85. The stock manifolds are easy to remove. TPiS said their headers needed to be installed from under the car preferably on a lift. I was able to drop both headers in from the top. I just removed the smog pump, alternator and valve covers to make a little room.

I assume your stock manifolds are like mine and they have standoffs for the bolts. You probably have brackets attached to them for the A/C, alternator and dipstick. You will need to fabricate spacers for the header bolts in order to reuse those brackets and header bolts. Don't try to eliminate the brackets. They are there for a reason. That's the reson I bought TPiS headers. They use all the factory bolts and brackets.

 

Well I don't have a lift, but I do have jackstands and blocks, really you drop them in from the top? I always assumed that you push them up from under, now that I think about it it makes sense. Thanks for the info. Keep it coming guys, anything and everything you could think of is greatly appreciated.

 

By the way, if the EGR is mounted on the center of the intake you will have to remove the plenum to get at it. But I'm not sure there's any benefit to removing the EGR.

 

Isn't there a tube that runs from the Header to the EGR? I was talking to my dad on the phone and he said theres a tube that runs from the passenger side header to underneath the plenum, I assumed that was the one running to the EGR?

 

You dont need to do anything on the egr except unplug the vacuum control valve that is mounted to the thermostat housing. You can unbolt the tube coming from the passenger exhaust manifold to the intake manifold and you will be set. I just did mine a couple weekends ago while changing injectors and its running great. The egr valve doesnt open unless it gets vacuum so it doesnt need to be removed it will just stay closed.

 

Syclone354
I'm the vette Dad doing the work
I have all the bolts off the passager side exhaust manifold except the one holding the dipstick....I read some other posts about trying to spray the dipstick well down were it goes into the oil pan. Some guys have had good luck (others not) on removing the dipstick without breaking it off near the pan.

On the EGR....I agree. I don't plan on removing the valve in the intake manifold. We will just put a delete plate over the recycle gases (not sure of the exact auto "techy" term) tube that connects between the intake and exhaust manifold. Has anyone had any problems with this delete?????

I also agree that after everything is off....we should be able to drop the headers down from the top....got all hoses out of the way.

PS....I can't believe all the SMOG Crap on this car.

 

Hi I would do a search on those headers to see if there's anywhere you have to clearance, need to Remove or dent in to make things fit better. On my car [93] I have to remove a brace and cut a notch out on passenge side for my exotic muscle headers. Check that you have enough clearance around spark plug boots. Better to give it more clearance now than to burn spark plug wires later. I just heat that area red hot, dent it in a little and repaint.

 

As you probably know, I am using those Headmans. Stock starter is still in place and I'm using the supplied gaskets and Breslin locking bolts. You will need to make a new dipstick mount. I just cut the stock bracket off and formed one to hang onto the tube and bolt to head.

 

I have Hedmans on my 86. I had to remove the starter to install them from the bottom. I did have to remove dipstick tube. If you put a bolt into the end of it and clamp on some visegrips you can twist it out.
I also had to weld in a O2 bung and lenthen the alt brace. No denting was required.

 

i haven't install mine yet,but i will use locking bolts,headman gaskets
I bought a bung,the bung has to be weld on the collector,not on the header itself
the collectors are included with your headers,you won't have a problem welding it there.-

 

I thought the collector was just the point on the header where all 4 pipes merged into one?

I just got off the phone with my dad. it was inevitable, dipstick tube bent while he was taking the passenger side exhaust manifold off. Does anyone have a link to a GM parts store that sells that, or do we have to go thru a dealer?

 

post a WTB thread on the sale section or try ebay

 

You are correct, I'm sure Sam was referring to the collector adapter. They are the 2 cone shaped pieces pictured between the headers.

 

Lol thanks for fixing it !
Yes that's what i meant

 

Ohh, I've always just referred to those as reducers because I assumed they reduced the pipe diameter down for the rest of the exhaust.

But thank you very much for the input. That's where i'll have the O2 bung put in.

 

Gryz what made you choose the 68448 thermal coated over the ceramic coated model ?

Because i chose the 68448 because there was no ceramic 68446,and i didnt find the 66447
and i thought the "thermal coat" was for heat ...later i found out the ceramic looks like chrome and is treated for heat as well...

68446

there are this model as well 66447 $ 587 i don't know why the extra price

 

Well as of right now I haven't ordered them, so its still up in the air. I don't even think I saw the other Ceramic Coated ones when I was looking. Now one is their "elite" model and one is their "street" model.

The only difference in the specs seem to be,

68446 - Ceramic Coated, 18-Gauge Primary Tube, $346.95
68448 - Thermal Coated, 14-Gauge Primary Tube, $392.95

Because of the price of the 66447's I wouldn't be able to consider them. But I'm all open to suggestions, what would you guys recommend? Right now I'm leaning to this wonderful new discovery by Calderone (bigger tubes, cheaper, and ceramic).

Also a progress update from my Dad, the Air Pump, all the connecting SMOG ****, stock exhaust manifolds, a good portion of the AC, and the serpentine belt all off/removed. Air Pump Delete Bracket is going to be ordered soon. Will also throwing up some pictures of the engine bay this weekend.

 

the 68446 is brand new,i've never saw that before,its strange that the price is even lower .....really strange !!!

From Hedman's site (Don't bother look at their prices...those are crazy there !!!)

68448 : Ultra Duty
68446 : Standard Duty
68447 : Standard Duty Uncoated

Seems like the 68448 are not so shiny (thermal coated) but they seems the best
Here's a pic of them :

 

Alright, well its probably going to be a couple weeks before we order them so I have plenty of time for all the veterans to argue this out. You don't think the bigger pipe gauge matters much?

Those do look nice though.