C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #221  
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Good, I can move on then.

Question about the valve lock that broke. What do I do there? Order another complete set? I'm not sure what degree they are. Maybe LE will know.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #222  
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Found them. 7 degree locks
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Good, I can move on then.

Question about the valve lock that broke. What do I do there? Order another complete set? I'm not sure what degree they are. Maybe LE will know.
I am wondering if the lock broke as a result of the rocker hitting the retainer, or if they simply broke due a defect.
Patriot stuff is made in China, as far as I know.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
I am wondering if the lock broke as a result of the rocker hitting the retainer, or if they simply broke due a defect.
Patriot stuff is made in China, as far as I know.
I looked at that Pete. It's very close but in the clear. Now, what it's doing at high rpm may a different story.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
I looked at that Pete. It's very close but in the clear. Now, what it's doing at high rpm may a different story.
Do you have at least .030 between them.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Do you have at least .030 between them.
I can check. Is that with the valve open or closed? Or does it even matter.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
I can check. Is that with the valve open or closed? Or does it even matter.
Normally, it is closest when the valve is closed, but roll the engine over to see.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #228  
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Must have been China steel. Plenty room.

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Dec 22, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:16 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Must have been China steel. Plenty room.
In the first picture with the valve open, Is the push rod supposed to be up against the guide plate like that? I'm getting some rubbing there is that normal?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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Any chance the cam could be bent or the incorrect cam? The last cam I got I had my machinist put it on his cam dock and check it over. Just a thought.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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I would contact Patriot on the valve lock. I'm pretty sure they will send you another one out, free of charge.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Must have been China steel. Plenty room.
Ok, the list shrinks.
You have come this far. I would take the checker spring out, and measure the installed height again.
Take the spring to a shop that has a spring compressor, and verify open and closed pressure.
Closed would be at the installed height
Open would be at the installed height minus the valve lift as determined by the cam and rocker ratio.

This will confirm your pressures as to whether or not they were misboxed.
Assuming they are what they are supposed to be, you can then decide if you want to maintain the high pressures you currently have, or swap them out to something milder.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
In the first picture with the valve open, Is the push rod supposed to be up against the guide plate like that? I'm getting some rubbing there is that normal?
Sliding on the side of the notch is somewhat typical. You do not want it rubbing on the bottom of the U. That would put it in a bind.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I would contact Patriot on the valve lock. I'm pretty sure they will send you another one out, free of charge.
I emailed LE. I'm hoping he has extras laying around.

Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Any chance the cam could be bent or the incorrect cam? The last cam I got I had my machinist put it on his cam dock and check it over. Just a thought.
Lord, I hope not! That may finish me off. I'm half mind to pull it though since I'm in this far and get it checked or at least give it a visual. All that left is the intake. That seems easy now. The problem is there aren't any shops around here that do that sort of thing that I know of. I'd either have to mail it or drive 80 miles to get it done.

Originally Posted by Pete K
Ok, the list shrinks.
You have come this far. I would take the checker spring out, and measure the installed height again.
Take the spring to a shop that has a spring compressor, and verify open and closed pressure.
Closed would be at the installed height
Open would be at the installed height minus the valve lift as determined by the cam and rocker ratio.

This will confirm your pressures as to whether or not they were misboxed.
Assuming they are what they are supposed to be, you can then decide if you want to maintain the high pressures you currently have, or swap them out to something milder.
I'm thinking a totally new set with pressures more realistic to what it should be. (suggestions) These may be just fine for a head that's been redone but on stock it seems extreme to me. As I have mentioned LE was just trying to save me a buck using these as I was planning on him redoing my heads this spring sometime and these springs could be reused and cut down on the cost. If I get a new set for now I can resell them later and recoup some of that money. Right now I just want this car back running but running correctly.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Sliding on the side of the notch is somewhat typical. You do not want it rubbing on the bottom of the U. That would put it in a bind.
It's really close Pete. Should I remove the guide plates and take a die grinder and remove some of the material just to be safe? Sorry for the out of focus pic. It's very close though.

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Dec 22, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
I emailed LE. I'm hoping he has extras laying around.



Lord, I hope not! That may finish me off. I'm half mind to pull it though since I'm in this far and get it checked or at least give it a visual. All that left is the intake. That seems easy now. The problem is there aren't any shops around here that do that sort of thing that I know of. I'd either have to mail it or drive 80 miles to get it done.



I'm thinking a totally new set with pressures more realistic to what it should be. (suggestions) These may be just fine for a head that's been redone but on stock it seems extreme to me. As I have mentioned LE was just trying to save me a buck using these as I was planning on him redoing my heads this spring sometime and these springs could be reused and cut down on the cost. If I get a new set for now I can resell them later and recoup some of that money. Right now I just want this car back running but running correctly.
For your cam, I would recommend the 918 beehives, from PAC Racing
http://www.pacracing.com/Beehive_Spr...Set_of_16.html as they are made in USA. Comp Cams sold out to a Mexican company and had issues with quality. And you will Need Comp Cams retainers 787-16 as they are made for LT1 with the 918 springs origiinally designed for LS1's
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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You might be able to gain a little bit of clearance on the guideplates by loosening the rocker studs and pushing the guideplates toward the exhaust side while tightening.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #238  
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Found that adjusting sequence. I'll do it this way instead of with the engine running.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/D/T/DTK123/l...adjustment.htm
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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It is also a good idea when you have everything lined up at TDC to mark your balancer for future reference. I used a paint pen to mark the balancer so it could easily be seen with everything reassembled.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
You might be able to gain a little bit of clearance on the guideplates by loosening the rocker studs and pushing the guideplates toward the exhaust side while tightening.
This is a great idea. I would do this first. If this didn't get it done to your satisfaction, I would suggest grinding out the holes where the rocker studs go through, to give you the wiggle room you need.

I would select a spring that fits your retainers and installed height, and gives you about 130-135 pounds closed, and 330 ish pounds open.

Any good cam or spring company can whip out the correct part number if they know the info above, and the cam lift with the rocker you have.

I had real good luck over the years with K Motion, but there are lots out there.
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