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ok for leaky beer cans and similar thin wall... castings/bigger stuff draw too much heat.
That is about it, this was a diamond plate truck tool box that had taken a serious hit. The seams ripped while getting it bent back into shape and top had a huge slice through it. That rod with his Oxy/Mapp torch was just balled up and had no penetration just filled the voids.
It maybe a good rod if you could use it as a filler rod when tig welding some noncritical parts. If anything has stress, heat cycles or needs to remain rigid I would stay with a basic Aluminum rod.
Last night I butt welded (brazed?) two pieces of 12 gauge aluminum together as a experiment, and I really did not have high hopes. It actually went way better than expected. It took some practice to lay down a nice bead and seemed plenty strong enough for a set of runners. I think the next step is to find some stock runners and see what can be done. I may just try to open up the tubing by splitting the backside and partially around the flanges and re-brazing or doing something like Yorky did with the siamesing, or both and trying both sets out on my car. I obviously have too much time on my hands... lol
These runners were used way back in the World Challenge days. The rules said you had to run stock intake manifolds but they could be modified. At least I think that was the case. I've been tempted to build a set myself.
When you open up the runners, you should have a rig, which has excatly the same angles as plenum and intake, where to bolt runners tight when welding. Otherwise they will warp/bend and you'll most probably have some nasty leak(s).
Yes, I was thinking the same thing. If I try this, I will bolt everything up to the old manifold on the bench or a bare block on my engine stand. I can see that warpage would be a big problem.
Stitch weld it to help reduce warpage is the easeist way to do it. Preheat the substrate and assembly in and oven and stitch the outer portions together. After multiple tacks and a stable base is established you can proceed to fully weld the remainder. Aluminum requires alot of heat and likes to cool quickly on its own.
on the pics yorcci posted it looks like when they did it they lost a bolt hole on each runner wonder how that would seal i have a welder that is great and this would be a simple job for him but that one hole missing in each runner would give me some concern
i am very interested in seing before and after dyno results on this mod.i love the low end grunt of the l98 motor.i beat them in a race on a regular basis,however i prefer there stock street perfomance.does this mod give them the upper rpm strength they need or is it just another way to get a few more rpms?im very curious.
on the pics yorcci posted it looks like when they did it they lost a bolt hole on each runner wonder how that would seal i have a welder that is great and this would be a simple job for him but that one hole missing in each runner would give me some concern
I don't understand where you got that impression?
Each and every bolt hole is still in use. Just look at the picture, where the original and siamesed runners are side by side on the front wheel.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by c-4 lhozwalte
i am very interested in seing before and after dyno results on this mod.i love the low end grunt of the l98 motor.i beat them in a race on a regular basis,however i prefer there stock street perfomance.does this mod give them the upper rpm strength they need or is it just another way to get a few more rpms?im very curious.
It's a way to CHANGE the performance so that an L98 performs more like an LT1 (power curve). Obviously, some midrange will be sacrificed to get more top-end. This moves the powerband higher. And, I'd have to worry that pulses in adjacent tubes interact/kill each other. I've seen results from this mod myself and thought WTF,,,why not do a MR. But cost is certainly a factor. There are no free trade-offs.
Dave,,,any front-loading plenum will create leaner rear cylinders. That shouldn't stop you -- if you're interested in this conversion.
This calculator (esp 2nd one of the 3 on the linked page), is much easier to see the difference.
Hint: Remember tube cross-section = pi*r** (pi x radius squared)
When you join tubes, you'll have to figure the cross-section by computing the joined area as a rectangle -- with a tube on the ends. Then average it with the base/head runners...and hope you're close.
Better yet...Do a dyno before and after!
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jan 7, 2010 at 02:31 PM.
The best ET last summer with these mods was 13.671 s / 104.4 mph
I will change the stock mufflers to stock LT-1 mufflers before I take it to the dyno shop for chip programming. Just for appearance, I like those LT-1 tips and I am a little curious, whether there is a difference in HP output with L98 and LT-1 mufflers or not.
Here are the semi-finished results of my stock runner siamese job using Aluma-weld rods. These are fully siamesed on a Edelbrock Hi Flo. I also ported the plenum and polished the top. This was quite the science project, and I have more hours into this than I can count. I bought the runners and plenum from Pwnage, so my originals are still on the car. I bought all the Moates stuff for datalogging and chip burning, so the intake will not go on until I figure the chip stuff out. It will probably go on with the stock heads, I may throw some 1.6 rockers on. Heads and a cam may not be in the budget this year. I have about 375 bucks into the whole intake.
I just realized I have the plenum on there backwards....imma tard, sorry
Last edited by powerpigz-51; Apr 22, 2010 at 01:41 AM.
Was thinking maybe siamesing the base would be going backwards a bit. Should run similar to a half decent dual plane intake Id guess. Fully siamesed the runner now becomes almost a plenum area itself as the air is moving much slower in there than before. THink a guy from 3rd gen siamesed the daylights out of his and wasnt happy with it, suggested a runner mod and leaving the length on the base stock.
The base inlets are highly ported, but non-siamesed. The head ports are reg size. My base came this way. I also have heard of mixed results with the base siamesing, and have heard that this is what leans out the rear cylinders. It will be nice to get past the wall. The Thirdgen guys are fully siamesing the SLP's and having good results. With some heads and a cam it could be interesting.