ENCOURGING!!!!! ..........and depressing.

But it is a Chevy... part of the charm. right?

Off I go to do a layman's layout.

If the frame is an inch off I should know by noon.

TJM

 

^^What points would you use for reference points??

I mean, Do I use the two outside fender flares as a starting point?

I'll play along as Mine is up on jackstands currently

 

 

Nope, I used the Plumb Bob method described in the manual. You drop a plumb bob, make a mark on the floor.

The factory manual shows the datum points. For instance the front fascia brackets where they bolt to the frame are points "A"

There are "A" through "G", various gauge holes, bolt holes, and openings. Then you measure length, width, and Cris-cross

Bad news is most of the plastic has to be off the car.

I popped a chalk line and it's pretty interesting to see the marks cross on [ and off] the center-line.

It's pretty clear my frame has at least a 1" shift to the right rear.


So to the frame shop.

It's not a catastrophe, the thing is bare except for the rear quarter panels.

A couple hundred bucks or a new frame??? This isn't a big Frame Ding, pretty small as these things go, and optimistic reports are that it is an easy pull and couple welds.

We'll see. The laser will do a much better [ accurate] job than I can.

Oh!!! I saw a 1/4 offset in the rear dimesions, not related to the shift from whatever the SCHMUCK hit. So looks as if Brian was right.


TJM

 

Your guy in Tampa says it's no big deal.. better than new when done?

TJM

 

2x

 

PM and follow up was sent to TJM (1/9/10) regarding question. TJM is getting it straightened locally.

 

c'mon guys....what is the deal?? is a frame shop working on it?

 

Yes, that is where it will go. I am waiting for an appointment to drop the thing off.

$180.00 to set it up and confirm the extent of the problem.....???.......

............. then Vaseline I suspect. Hopefully they won't through in a handful of sand with it.

I have been told to expect another $150.00 or so, based on the verbal Ya-Ya's with the shop.

I know the guy who knows the "Guy" sort of deal.

TJM

 

Yes, got it back today. It took that time because it's a "friend" of a friend's place of business, and he did it when he had an open time slot.

$300.00 and the frame is dead nuts straight. Wheels exactly in the same position. Normal cost run $800.00

Oh.. the front rails had to be tweaked a little too. My guy said that was pretty common, and lends itself to Brian's statement. But they are not "Set" just manufacturing tolerance ranges building up. Few frames are perfect. Most are out a little bit one way of the other.

This is one of the damning things about C4; lots of frame pieces.. lots of welds.

But like they said.. " Hey, it's a Chevrolet"!!! They also said it's better than C5 if you get them straightened and brace them, as in racing cages. A lot more to that comment...

Ironically, this was a Ford dealership body shop, run by two 'Vette guys... go figure.


TJM

 

When I made the dana36 to 44 swap on the '85, I noticed the same thing. Passenger side, iirc, stuck out a good 3/4 inch, drivers was pretty flush. I also was using 11" rims....Normal!!!

 

I couldn't stand it!!! Made my teeth itch!!

Besides, the car is dedicated to the track, likely ends up in T1 or C.C. series and needs to be as straight as possible.

It's straight as an arrow now.

TJM