I am going to replace my injectors this weekend and started the project last night. I have the SuperRam, so that makes things a little slow. I labeled all the electrical wires, hoses, and other parts before I took them off. For those of you with the SR, there are 16 bolts or in my case studs with a nut that hold the plenum onto the runners. Last night I got 12 of them off. One and a half hours tonight I got the last four off. I ended up ending a spare 7/16 box end at a 90 degree angle to get the last nut off back by the distributor.

Now the good part is that it looks like I can pull the fuel rail without removing the runners....OH YEA.

While I am down this far, I am replacing all the injector plugs. Here is a picture of the runners with the gray gasket material still attached. SR are known for leaks.....so I use a little silicone.

 

John,can you post big pictures ?
Every picture will be very useful for future reference
If you cannot resize them or something , i can help
Are you installing Bosch III's ?
Thanks !

 

Trying to enlarge picture....lets see what happens. Sorry, it looks the same. If you right click your mouse you can save the picture onto your computer and probably enlarge it.

Looked into the Bosch III's but decided to go with the Accel 24# as recommended by a good friend how tunes Corvettes C4's and up. He also does head, cam and more swaps getting up to 600+ RWHP.

I have not had a major problem with the Accel's that I have been running for the last 6 years.

 

Have fun John , and yes, you can change injectors with the runners, on.

 

I put white lithium grease on the top of the runner gaskets that contact the plenum. Unless they are way off, the lithium grease fills in any voids and prevents vacuum leaks. This way, the gaskets can be reused. Silicone them to the runner side and they will last for a long time. I have used the same gasket set for years and have removed and reassembled the upper end countless times. Works for me.

 

John,

When I changed injectors I left the SR runners on. I disassembled and removed the fuel rails. I rebuilt the rails with new gaskets. I also polished all the metal. I rebuilt the OEM fuel pressure regulator that you gave to me. The OEM regulator works great and passes California smog.

I agree with your choice of injector. The guy that tuned my Vette said the same thing about the Bosch III's. I heard the Bosch III's can cause high blms or something and are not good for all c4s. You can damage your engine if you install the wrong injector.

The new style Accel are reliable. The older yellow Accels were crap. I used 24 lb. Trickflow injectors. They have worked well for over 2 years.

Got a question about your 13.2 1/4. Did your son shift manually on that run? What did he do that was different?

I'm guessing our 700rs are shifting way too early for the SR and I'm thinking about changing the governor.

Fred

 

Thanks for Accel tip boys - one of mine just bit the dust, and it was one of the old style 24 # Accels. They lasted 8 years though. John, any room to partially siamese the runners on the SR? Can you sawzall the plenum to runner divider? It may not help much with the SR, but it helped me with my stock plenum & aftermarket runners. Also, I'm surprised you're not in the 12's with your combo...

 

Kool88vette- I added a 2400 stall converter in the trans. when I had it rebuilt. My son did a good burn out, then took the RPM's up to about 2200 and then hit it on the last yellow. He let the transmission do the work. He was getting 13.2 and 13.3's for his runs.

Tom Wong up in Vancouver Washington tells me that when I bring it up to him to dyno tune that he will burn a second chip for the track. I will have to run a couple of tanks of premium thru it and then change the chip. He indicates that he will put more advance in this chip. Between this and some better tires....perhaps into the high 12's this year.

I am also changing out the stock fuel pump for a Walbro. Stock pump supposedly is good to about 400 HP and I think I am above that. I will find out for sure when Tom puts it on his dyno.

jmrl98 - I talked to Accel when I got the SR and asked about partially siamesing and the runners. He said it could be done, but that I would loose the bottom end. The SR runners are a much larger diameter than stock and about 1/2 the length. I did take the extra time to gasket match all openings in the intake base, runners, plenum and smooth out the transitions to these openings. Yea, I think I should have been in the high 12's. I think part of this was tires and part getting it fine tuned. I only go to the track once a year for Corvette Magic in Sacramento. My two sons and myself run the car. So there is not a lot of track time to get things dialed in.

Here is a picture of the SR plenum with the runners looking head on so you have an idea of the runner length.


And now a picture of the SR plenum compared to stock.

 

Waycool

 

me lieky

 

I've been using white lithium on the upper gaskets too. I got tired of paying $36 every time I took the plenum off.

 

Finally back into the project. Scrapped off all old gaskets.


Information for the archives for those of you that do future research:
85 base year....fuel system is the same even after changing engine.

Yes, you can remove the fuel rail without removing the SR runners...tight, but it can be done. Four (4) size 40 torx bolts that hold the rail to the intake.

Be prepared to plug the smaller of the two metal fuel lines that attach to the fuel rail. It will flow fuel after you disconnect it!! Learned the first time. Note that there is a collar that is part of the fuel line when it screws into the rail connection that holds a "O" ring. I slipped a rubber plug (approx 3/8" I.D. over this tube after removing the "O" ring.

- fuel rail removed with injectors still locked into the rail.

- picture showing the clip that locks the injector into the rail. Use a small screw driver on the backside of the rail to turn the clip. The clip will remain on the injector as you pull out the injector and will have to be transferred to the new injector.

Picture of the old Accel injector on the right and the new injector on the left. Note the three injector nozzles on the new injector.


Remove all the old injectors and transfer the clips, coat the "O" ring with light engine oil and insert into the rail. Lock the injector in place with the clip.

 

About 20 minutes to remove the old injectors, remove and transfer clips to the new injectors. Oil the "O" rings, insert into the rail and lock in place.


Now to get the rail back in and everything hooked back up.

Don't forget to put anit-seize on your torx bolts that hold the rail to the intake (steel vs. aluminum).

 

If you edit your post and change the word "medium'" to "large" you should get this:

 

Like this:

 

Blue 92 - thanks for the directions on increasing the size of the picture....tried it and it works.

Bolted back in place. I will pressure test this before starting the SR plenum installation.

Just pressure tested the fuel system.....NO LEAKS!!

Now onto the next project.....replace all the injector electrical plugs.

 

Finished replacing all the injector plugs. Cut the old wires and spliced the new ones in and then heat shrink tube over the splice.



You almost can't tell that they have been spliced. I just have to wrap all the wires with tape into a bundle.

 

Great stuff John, excellent pics. You're doing some good work there...guess accel really did overhaul their injectors...