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As a matter of fact, I am a rocket scientist (for those used to model rockets the bird on the pad weighs 52 pounds at launch and is powered by an Aerotech M1315 solid fuel motor. That motor is equivalent to about 640 Estes "C" motors).
1) Torque is a moment, a force applied at a distance. Therefore the correct notation is lb-ft (although mathematics suggest that ft-lb is equivalent). "lb/ft" or "ft/lb" are incorrect as they imply a type of linearly distributed load (pounds per foot) or nonsense (foot per pound).
2) The presence of lubrication is important when determining a torque value. For a given torque, forces are increased from a lubricated fastener. Effectively, you are overtorquing. May not be a moon shot, but you'll regret stripped threads and broken fasteners.
3) And I agree with the above comments about putting them in and snugging them up. Except for my Nissan truck, I never had a vehicle with sufficient clearance to use a torque wrench.
Steve
Last edited by azrocketman; Mar 8, 2010 at 10:23 AM.
As a matter of fact, I am a rocket scientist (for those used to model rockets the bird on the pad weighs 52 pounds at launch and is powered by an Aerotech M1315 solid fuel motor. That motor is equivalent to about 640 Estes "C" motors).
1) Torque is a moment, a force applied at a distance. Therefore the correct notation is lb-ft (although mathematics suggest that ft-lb is equivalent). "lb/ft" or "ft/lb" are incorrect as they imply a type of linearly distributed load (pounds per foot) or nonsense (foot per pound).
2) The presence of lubrication is important when determining a torque value. For a given torque, forces are increased from a lubricated fastener. Effectively, you are overtorquing. May not be a moon shot, but you'll regret stripped threads and broken fasteners.
3) And I agree with the above comments about putting them in and snugging them up. Except for my Nissan truck, I never had a vehicle with sufficient clearance to use a torque wrench.
Steve
For aluminum heads on an L98, the torque is 12 ft lbs for spark plugs. If you put antisieze on the plugs, what should you torque them to? I torqued them to 12 ft lbs with antisieze last time I replaced them.
For aluminum heads on an L98, the torque is 12 ft lbs for spark plugs. If you put antisieze on the plugs, what should you torque them to? I torqued them to 12 ft lbs with antisieze last time I replaced them.
Several sources I checked indicate that specified torques should be reduced 25% to 50% for lubricated fasteners. If I remember correctly, the aluminum head plugs have crush washers. I'd torque by feel instead of a wrench (I have not put plugs in the Vette yet but I've done it many times on my Corvairs).
Several sources I checked indicate that specified torques should be reduced 25% to 50% for lubricated fasteners. If I remember correctly, the aluminum head plugs have crush washers. I'd torque by feel instead of a wrench (I have not put plugs in the Vette yet but I've done it many times on my Corvairs).
Steve
Yep, I use 30% on antisieze. There's different reductions for different lubes. In the ARP book, they even have different values for ARP thread oil vs motor oil ( rod bolts).
Yea, a lot of older aluminum heads (like bike motors) used the crush washers.
The tapered seats on todays heads make the torque a bit less important, they seal and hold very well.
I'm almost religious on using a torque wrench on the racecars but I never torque plugs. Snug them and give them a 1/16th turn, never had a problem.
Yep, I use 30% on antisieze. There's different reductions for different lubes. In the ARP book, they even have different values for ARP thread oil vs motor oil ( rod bolts).
Yea, a lot of older aluminum heads (like bike motors) used the crush washers.
The tapered seats on todays heads make the torque a bit less important, they seal and hold very well.
I'm almost religious on using a torque wrench on the racecars but I never torque plugs. Snug them and give them a 1/16th turn, never had a problem.
I am probably going to regret asking(can't help it), but how in the freak do you know how far 1/16th is????????????
But yes, I snug them and give them a little extra.
I am probably going to regret asking(can't help it), but how in the freak do you know how far 1/16th is????????????
But yes, I snug them and give them a little extra.
"1/16 th turn" , not very technical is it? It's just like your "little extra"
The bottom line is that "a little extra" on a plug after it's snug is just fine. 1/32. 1/16, 1/8th turn if the wrench will do it. Unless you're completely hamfisted and just have to overtighten everything, the way you described it will work everytime. So will the undefineable 1/16.
Overtightening's another story.
The cars I play with have the plugs pulled and reinstalled 40+ times a year. I've never had a loose plug or one that was stuck.
torque on threaded fasteners is a science in itself. there is literally hundreds of books written on the subject. NO FLAMES HERE, but granted, you can get away without using one, but it doesn't mean its the correct or proper way to do a job. anyone, especially with aluminum heads should use a torque wrench on the plugs!
Ft/lbs is incorrect; should be ft lbs. Also, torques are normally specified for clean, dry threads. If you are using anti-seize or any other lubricant you need to back off on the torque value.
Steve
Yet, the engineers will tell you that it's technically Lb Ft; Lb in.; and N.m But why get bogged down in this anyway.
The 96 Vette FSM says 15 Lb Ft - Page 6-11 Notice the absence of punctuation.
The 86 Vette FSM says 22 lb. ft. Notice the capitalization and punctuaton ('period - .' ) differences - Page 6A1-29 with no distinction between iron or aluminum heads mentioned.
How would you tell if you didn't torque your spark plugs enough?
You'd probably hear the sound of compression leakage. May not begin right away, but over time it'll increase.
This is not a really critical torque spec just as long as torque spec isn't greatly off. In fact, many guys who have screwed on engines for years use muscle memory in torquing the spark plugs.
If I was to prepare a listing of the most critical torque specs, with the most critical ones at the top and the least critical at the bottom, spark plug torque would be down near the bottom.
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