car wont start when warmed up
Are you hearing a short click from the starter solenoid? Sometimes, not always, when starter solenoids start to go bad they can still make a short click, as if the starter was stuck. Sometimes you can get it to start by rapidly cycling the key on and off the crank position.
What I do to verify or eliminate VATS without wasting time or guessing right away is when it isn't starting, see if battery voltage is present at the small wire attached to the starter solenoid with a voltmeter while key is in crank position using an assistant. It's a tight fit, but you can use some sections of aligator test clips without removing the wire to allow you to hook up a voltmeter between it and ground. You should be seeing battery voltage there. If you do see voltage but the starter isn't spining, then it's the starter for sure, most likely the solenoid and has nothing to do with VATS. Make sure the thick battery cable with large nut is tight. Give it a few wacks and see if it starts then.
The only thing the starter needs to spin over is battery voltage at the small terminal which comes from the Starter Enable Relay with key in crank position, if the VATS closes the relay. This voltage input closes the starter solenoid which completes the path between the thick wire with large nut (hot at all times from battery positive) to the power strap side of the starter motor and spins it. Ground side comes from starter being bolted to the motor. That's it. The solenoid is basically a simple high amp relay.
If you do not see voltage at the small solenoid wire with the key in the crank position, it's a glitch with the VATS or an intermittent contact along that wire. Wiggle the wire while retesting. You can bypass the Starter Enable Relay to test.
Can you allow the car to idle in your driveway up to operanting temps in order to recreate this problem for testing purposes?
Last edited by 86PACER; Mar 24, 2010 at 12:44 AM.
I could hear the click when it was hot,but no starter spin.It could just be the solenoid on the starter,but I would have the whole unit checked and/or rebuilt if needed.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Just monitor the voltage going to the starter solenoid. Connect a wire to that terminal and run the wire in the car. Find a ground and keep a meter in the car. Keep it connected and if it does not start just turn the meter on and check the voltage.
If you got it, change the starter. (Or rebuild the solenoid).

I have had bad luck repairing the solenoids in the past. The last two I repaired the actual starter crapped out not to long after. I just don’t mess around anymore, I get the whole thing now so it's all new.
Last edited by pcolt94; Mar 25, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
on the solenoid plunger and the two copper lugs that are shorted together
by the plunger pit due the high current drawn by the starter motor.
The copper plunger disc and two copper contact lugs can be replaced.
88-91 Corvettes used the same Nippondenso starter.
128000-495 OSGR 1.4kw 12 volts.
Here's a link showing how to replace the contacts. Scroll down towards
the bottom of the page.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html



















