AFR's going back on....
The banjo bolt washers looked like they could have been reused but I didn't chance it. I found these at NAPA. They are oil drain plug washers. They fit very tight on the bolt and I believe they'll work just fine.


As I mentioned it's been very humid here. Not just today but the last week or so. The block has actually just sat there and rusted with no water on it whatsoever. One of the disadvantages of working in an open area I guess. I cleaned the rust off with a brass wheel and a drill.



I put everything I could on the heads like the front water jacket plug, and the coil on the right side. All of the header studs also. Put the gaskets on and sat the heads in place. Tomorrow (early) I'll start the bolt torquing procedure. Using .026 head gaskets I'm probably going to tighten the bolts to 40 ft lbs and then in 10ft lb increments after that until I reach 70 ft lbs.
With any luck I'll have this thing running tomorrow afternoon, hopefully but it's supposed to be hotter tomorrow so I don't know..........
Last edited by Weav's Vet; Jun 4, 2010 at 04:18 PM.

I wanted to show you guys this. The valve covers look like they're going to be ok. I may have to grind the weld at the wiper motor a little but not much. The thickness on the front where the alternator bracket goes is close to the OE cover. I believe I can make them work ok.



One question.. Wouldnt a ported LT1 intake have worked better if it was preped specifically for the AFR's? I hear 10+ hp is typical from porting the intake.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jun 4, 2010 at 09:25 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
One question.. Wouldnt a ported LT1 intake have worked better if it was preped specifically for the AFR's? I hear 10+ hp is typical from porting the intake.

(and no really good way of data logging) my tuner is going to send me a few different tunes to download to my laptop. He also has a cable/software that I can rent for cheap so when I take it to the dyno I can try different tunes to see which one works the best from his experience with setups similar to mine. Does that make sense.......? Anyway, the dyno tunes run about 400.00 so that is why I'm going this route at the moment. The only problem is he has just one cable and it is out at the moment so I'll probably just see what it does like it is. He said it should be fairly close with the tune I have now. From what I can find out the ported LT1 manifold does gain about 10 hp like you said but that gain is over a stock LT1 manifold, not the LT4 manifold so the ported LT1 and the stock LT4 end up about the same hp wise. I actually have both and was going to try the ported LT1 first but I have decided to just go with the with the Edelbrock L4 and not fool with the other one. I'll probably end up selling it later on it if you're interested. There are some pictures of it in my head removal thread.
Yes but they are the stock GM LT4 gaskets. Part # 1255984 I believe. There is a picture of them laying on the Edelbrock in post #1 of this thread. This is the same gasket the porter used on the LT1 intake I had him do. If you'll look at the pictures I have you can see this gasket fits the intake and the heads almost identical.
(and no really good way of data logging) my tuner is going to send me a few different tunes to download to my laptop. He also has a cable/software that I can rent for cheap so when I take it to the dyno I can try different tunes to see which one works the best from his experience with setups similar to mine. Does that make sense.......? Anyway, the dyno tunes run about 400.00 so that is why I'm going this route at the moment. The only problem is he has just one cable and it is out at the moment so I'll probably just see what it does like it is. He said it should be fairly close with the tune I have now. From what I can find out the ported LT1 manifold does gain about 10 hp like you said but that gain is over a stock LT1 manifold, not the LT4 manifold so the ported LT1 and the stock LT4 end up about the same hp wise. I actually have both and was going to try the ported LT1 first but I have decided to just go with the with the Edelbrock L4 and not fool with the other one. I'll probably end up selling it later on it if you're interested. There are some pictures of it in my head removal thread.
Mike
Yes but they are the stock GM LT4 gaskets. Part # 1255984 I believe. There is a picture of them laying on the Edelbrock in post #1 of this thread. This is the same gasket the porter used on the LT1 intake I had him do. If you'll look at the pictures I have you can see this gasket fits the intake and the heads almost identical.
Eddie
So here we go with the pics.
Bolts ready to be greased and sealed up.

Here's the High Pressure lube for the head bolts. Make sure it goes above and below the washer. Don't want to gall these pretty heads! It also helps with accurate torque readings. Also, the ARP washers have a relieved side to them. Make certain this goes towards the head of the bolt. I really like this ARP thread sealer. Works a lot better than some I've used plus it stays soft.

Here's the head bolts ready to go in.

Done deal! Torqued to 40 then 50 then 60 then 70 ft lbs. I used the pattern form the FSM.

Next I had to clean up my 7/16 rocker studs. I used lacquer thinner and a wire brush for this.

Rinsed the guide plates off and put anti seize on the rocker studs. I torqued these to 55 ft lbs.

A rough adjust on the valves ( I prefer to adjust the valves with the engine running and at operating temp) and stuck in the intake gaskets. The push rods ended up being 7.2 in length. I was lucky, I actually had some ARP hardened ones here. How'd that happen.......

Going to get a fan and continue on. It's already 90 degrees here.















