So, I started with the reassembly process this afternoon.

As many of you know the ARF's oil return on the drivers side front is blocked off. The block has to be clearanced to let the oil drain back to the pan from that front hole. I was dreading this with internals in the block. It probably wouldn't take to many of these metal shavings to make a mess out of things. So here's what I did to prevent them from getting into the block.

First off I taped up where I thought most of the shavings would end up. Mainly on the drivers side area.



Next I laid the head on the pins and marked the area to be removed.



Next and I want to thank Steve40th for this idea. I laid refrigerator magnets all around the area where I was going to work.



Next I got a old sheet and covered up everything. I laid a couple of heavy socket extensions in the lifter valley to hold down and still.



Here is the Die Grinder and burr I used.



Then I went to it with the Die Grinder. It threw shaving all over the place. I'm glad I used that sheet! Look closely at the magnets. All of those shavings the magnets caught would probably have been in the lifter valley.



I carefully wrapped up the sheet and removed all of the magnets. There were some shavings but nothing like there could have been. I vacuumed them up and I will rinse the valley out with brake fluid after I get the heads on. Of course I'll change the oil before firing it up.

Here it is completed. I figured I didn't have to make it really pretty for oil to run down.



UPS also brought me this today. I'm aware that the performance gains are minimal from one of these but AFR says the LT4 intake will work better so this was the fastest way to get one. Besides it looks sharp!







Doesn't look like it needs any porting to me What do you all think?





Look closely and you can see under the plenum.








Here are a few more pics if interested. Thanks for looking!

http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/j...g%20back%20on/

http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/j...ap%20pics%202/

Head removal thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1574272052

 

looking good

 

You amaze me Mike

 

Looks great....Waiting to see the results..

 

If you remove the center part between the TB bores you can reach your hand in there and take pictures with your cell phone of port matching to the heads.

 

Like my AI ported LT1 intake?

 

Thanks Brian!

Well, sometimes I can be really thick but I'll take the compliment.

And you will. Rockingham's next T&T is the 12th I believe. I'll probably make it to the same dyno I have always used before then though.

Be my luck I'd get my hand caught it there Andy.........

Yep, I know I would.

Thanks guys for all the comments!

 

O man Mike those heads look great, I'd like to have a set of those heads in my living room just to look at! I have to be gone for 2 weeks for work but when I come back I'm going to be checking on the progress, can't wait to see her run. I wish I could be there for a couple of hours just to help you turn wrenches. Thanks for all the pix too. Good luck!

 

Glad to see you making progress again. Nice parts BTW.

 

No problem Tom. Just come back to this thread to see the ending. I'll hopefully have it running again by this weekend, hopefully.....

 

Thanks polo

 

nice job, Make sure to hit that area with gasket sealer

 

Thanks LD. I have to ask why though?

 

I have relieved my block here on every new block, and this area will have a lot of oil pass over it, and when you put your gasket on, you will notice a small gap where the oil can pool between the block and head and "possibly" leak out the back of the block unless some Rite Stuff or sealer is there, at least it did on mine.

I also had the AFR' milled out to relive that area so it drained down hill instead of uphill, mine are the last version, not the newest version.

 

Just went and took the rocker studs out and noticed the holes are blind. The stud holes on the LT1 heads go into the intake& exhaust ports and have to be sealed. This is just another small improvement on AFR's part. A little anti seize on the 7/16 studs should do the trick just to be safe and torque to 55 ft lbs.

 

Understood, thanks LD!

 

UPS brought me my last part today. The Canton valve covers.

I will have to use a hole saw to make a hole in the passenger side cover for the PCV tube that goes to the throttle body. Other than that if they aren't to high they should work great and look very nice and well made.

Here they are.



The alternator/AC bracket notch.

 

After looking at these why couldn't I get a connection to go to he hole in the drivers side cover instead of drilling a hole in the other one. That would work wouldn't it?

 

Mike, this is looking better and better

Is the Alternator bracket going to clear those valve covers?

 

Gonna need sunglasses when you open the hood, Mike! ;-)