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How about a materials list? did you rent the pipe bender?
We used 1 5/8" Chromalley (sp) , I'll check on what we used so far but it was much less than planned. Actually Paul (SloRvette) ended up buying a bender, we where doing my car first the he's doing his T Type (Very Fast)
When I installed my bar, I kept the stock carpets and took the car to an upholstery shop. They made new covers (in black) for about $125 so I could keep my original covers unmolested.
Great job, you said this was your first cage and you fabbed it in 7 days?! My hat's off to ya. Looking at your design, I understand you made some structural compromises to facilitate the top storage and ease of welding. The two rear tubes that are severely bent do not contribute much to the roll cage structure. As mentioned by another member, following a direct path from the top corners of the upper tube to the rear of the chassis would significantly improve longitudinal loading. In addtion, I would reccomend welding in two diagonal crossmembers from the center of the topmost tube, to the joints at the horizontal tube and the vertical members. This will not only decrease the potential for tube failure during a roll, but also increase torsional rigidity of the structure by twofold.
If you consider selling your cage kits, please check out some books from the library regarding spaceframe construction. It is important to understand the concept of triangulation, upon which you can optimize the spaceframe and use wall thicknesses as small as .035 inches for chassis construction.
Excellent job and best wishes to your future endevors! Please post if you would like to discuss further.
Agreed, with all points. I also have a degree in engineering and there is no way that roll cage is as strong as it would be if we put those back bars is straight.
But......
The objectives of the cage were in order..
Pass tech
mount 5 points harnesses
stiffen up the car
All objectives achieved :)
Also if I couldn't fit the top in the back I wouldn't have done the cage at all. So I guess it is safer with it the way it is than not doing one at all.
Once the front members are in it will strengthen up the whole thing.
Also the design would be more of a concern for me if it was in any other car than a C4, before we built the cage I search the internets for pixs of smashed Vettes with the intent of seeing if I could find one with the roof (Loop behind the seats) caved in. Guess what? I haven't seen one. So I'm not overly concerned about the strength being compromised.
Keep in mind this is a street car and I want to keep it that way, and I may get back to you. Any books you can recommend?
Safety wise the main hoop could be about an inch or so higher to tuck real close to the interior trim. If we'd done that, that trim wouldn't have come back out without cutting the bar out. If I remember right the total length of the main hoop was 56 ". Its short.
The bars are 4130 cromemoly. I' be a lot more worried if the back bars were mild steel with the 2 bends in them.
Any suggestions on reference materials wouldbe appreciated, Thanks.