rklessdriver

That pump is a BBC pump machined down to fit the SBC rear main cap.

Melling sells one just like it (M99HVS).... My dad even used them back in the 80's on wet sump late model dirt engines until we went to the self contained Barnes "in the pan" dry sump systems.

I don't like that oil pump at all. I have a number of reasons I don't care for that BBC pump:

1. It puts too much strain on the cam/dizzy oil pump drive gears. Our bronze dizzy gears would only last 1/2 a season in those engines.
2. It eats too much HP. I've seen 30HP (on a 600HP engine) difference in one of those pumps and the Barnes we moved to a few yrs later.
3. It pumps way too much oil for any SBC with a wet sump oiling system. We always ran oil restrictors in those engines.
4. It's big and hard to fit in/to some pans/windage trays/scrapers. I rember it was a real PITA to fit that system together with a wet sump pan that has 7-8 doors and all the other stuff needed to keep windage in check on a 600+HP 7000RPM engine that is constantly slung sideways at 100mph for 50 laps a night.
5. I can bet your going to gain about 15-30*F of oil temp running one of those pumps.

Back in the 80's we didn't have anything else (in the price range) and those pumps worked OK - so we didn't know any better for a while - It was alot of work to build initially and keep up with afterwards... Once the price of dry sumps came down to where we could afford to sell them to our customers - we never looked back... Of course we use flywheel or belt driven oil pumps in those engines now.

Today in our lower class oval track engines that still use wet sump systems we use the Milodon or Melling Select pumps that are based on the regular SBC pump.

I'll have to measure a stock vette pan to be sure but I think it's 7" or 7.5".
Will

aklim

So your recommendation is the super expensive Melling Select or the Milodon PN 18750 for my stock pan?

rklessdriver

With the stock pan I would recommend the Milodon 18755. It cost all of $30.00

We are getting off on some massive thread drift here - but in short there are VERY few good reasons to run a HV pump with a stock pan.

Feel free to PM me the specs on your engine and I'll be glad to give you some more recomendations, but I don't want to intrude and clog up Pwnage's build thread too much more.
Will

Pwnage1337

Well, its been a while since i did an update. I haven't gotten ANYTHING done. I am still alive, in case anyone was wondering. The winter is keeping me out of the garage..i have a heater but its been so cold here it seems like it doesn't even work

I went to the garage for a few hours today, this is the engine bay as it sits right now. I had a hell of a time with my power steering pump. The lines going into it were TIGHT.

pr0zac

looks like you got a ways to go sister...

Pwnage1337

fly your bum *** to WI and help me lol

USAsOnlyWay

Glad you are alive, thought for a second there you might have had an engine block roll over on you in your bed one night...

Good time to change the rack if you need to once that block is out. Almost there man, just pull some more, one system at a time.

Chapindad

Thanks for the THREAD! The pictures and side discussions are awesome. I would be over in a minute if you lived anywhere near me. Great JOB!

pr0zac

sounds great.. i am going to leave myrtle beach to fly up to cold *** east bum**** Wisconsin and help your punk *** out.. haha. i don't give you enough moral support?

Pwnage1337

I am going to replace the pump. The car had morning sickness. Not sure, but off the top of my head isn't it caused by air in the system..? Maybe the rack has bad seals. Any idea on how to diagnose that?

Thanks for the comments/tips, keep them coming!

@prozac, i can have my mother knit you a sweater if its too cold for you?

Pwnage1337

The crank is hard to sleep with. The headers weren't so bad. Pistons were alright. I haven't gotten to the block yet...

pr0zac

can she make it argyle? i am an extra medium.

i always thought morning sickness was cause by the rack having an issue. great time to upgrade to a z51 rack.

Desert LT1 Vette

this is great.lot of great knowledge in here.good luck with it.

Pwnage1337

I decided to take measurements of my intake. Here are a few pics:

Underside of plenum:


Plenum side of runner:


Base side of runner:



Base Vertical:


Base horizontal:


Base runner:

pr0zac

that engine out yet? i am sure it would be fun to sleep with also..

Pwnage1337

Tax return in hand, I am ready to start ordering more parts.

I need some help with:

Timing chain set. I am going to be using a XFI280HR13 camshaft and the crank is a 1 piece rear main SCAT 9000.

Lifters - suggestions? Educate me.

Injectors. Most of you will say get them from FIC, and I agree with that. I want to use the Bosch 3 design, but what lb/hr should I go with?

M.J.L.

Just bought Bosch III 24 lbs from Fic. Arrived Friday!

Pwnage1337

Block finally made its way to the machinist today. I dropped it off at Krings Motorsports, of Arpin, WI. They build 383's for dirt track cars every year.

I was talking with the machinist, and he said since it is externally balanced, it would probably not be good to spin it over 6000 rpm, any thoughts on this? I don't really plan on spinning it close to that often, but the way he made it sound it was going to blow apart the motor mounts and fly out of the engine bay.

They are going to magnaflux my block, and if it checks out OK, they will give me a call and we will go from there.

They have my heads and my rotating assembly also, they are going to check over the heads and check the balancing on the rotating assy.

Sorry for the lack of updates.

Pwnage1337

pr0zac

any double roller will do. just make sure its for the stepped nose cam. lsX lifters work fine and are super cheap.

Ray Quayle

I went with the Cloyes CLO-9-3645X9 since I decided to keep my '86 block all original and went with a 4 bolt roller block.