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I don't need any help. I've drained and flushed my engines a number of times by simply removing the knock sensor and drain plug or oil cooler line and letting it drain. Then run water in from the top to help flush anything out.
I just think it is a waste of time and more messy with coolant running down your arm trying to screw in those barbs and hooking up those lines to do the same thing as just letting it drain out the hole. Which was why I had asked what the purpose was in putting in those lines as I saw no point in it. But of course you were unable to provide a sensible answer.
seems like a fitting with a "valve" would be even cleaner.
Do you not think it may de-sensitize the sensor by putting a valve between the block and the sensor? Also, is there clearance in there to allow it?
FWIW, I flush mine with a garden hose until its clear. Drain it, refill with distilled water, run for a short while, then drain again. (kinda a rinse cycle) and add anti-freeze mix.
I'm becoming increasingly convinced that PLRX doesn't even own a Corvette, much less work on one. Note that the "drain" hose attached in that pic is dry, indicating that it was put on AFTER the coolant drained out.
As joshwilson3 also notes he chooses to avoid any explanation of how those barbed plugs get in there without spilling all the coolant during the process, a sure sign that he HAS no explanation -- and that he has never pulled one of those knock sensors.
PLRX seems to be a serial purveyor of untested secondhand information and reposted pics. Happily, his free advice is worth every penny.
I wonder if this will goad him into explaining his procedure or just throwing another defensive tantrum as smokescreen. I'm betting the latter.
I'm becoming increasingly convinced that PLRX doesn't even own a Corvette, much less work on one. Note that the "drain" hose attached in that pic is dry, indicating that it was put on AFTER the coolant drained out.
As joshwilson3 also notes he chooses to avoid any explanation of how those barbed plugs get in there without spilling all the coolant during the process, a sure sign that he HAS no explanation -- and that he has never pulled one of those knock sensors.
PLRX seems to be a serial purveyor of untested secondhand information and reposted pics. Happily, his free advice is worth every penny.
I wonder if this will goad him into explaining his procedure or just throwing another defensive tantrum as smokescreen. I'm betting the latter.
Your ignorance is bigger that my thought of you been a troll. You visit this forum once a month and with only 167 post you come and try to make an impact with a vague post.
If you would do a search you will find that removing the KS and installing a temporary hose has been recommended in this forum for years. Yes, before you joined two months ago.
Do a search and find out that it is in this forum's tech tips.
I dont have to explain a thing to you or anyone, do your own research like many of us in here do. Based on the translation of your username, you also have arthritis.
I'm becoming increasingly convinced that PLRX doesn't even own a Corvette, much less work on one.
I'm becoming increasingly convinced that PLRX doesn't even own a Corvette, much less work on one. Note that the "drain" hose attached in that pic is dry, indicating that it was put on AFTER the coolant drained out.
As joshwilson3 also notes he chooses to avoid any explanation of how those barbed plugs get in there without spilling all the coolant during the process, a sure sign that he HAS no explanation -- and that he has never pulled one of those knock sensors.
PLRX seems to be a serial purveyor of untested secondhand information and reposted pics. Happily, his free advice is worth every penny.
I wonder if this will goad him into explaining his procedure or just throwing another defensive tantrum as smokescreen. I'm betting the latter.
Well, he was driving a Silver car that resembled a C4 Collector Edition at the Temecula Wounded Warrior fundraiser and I parked next to his Dark Red car that resembled another C4 at 2 different car shows. But who knows, maybe I don't know what a Corvette is?
..and if you ever looked up at the stickies, you might see a large thread where he put built a motor and re-installed in some Silver car he has.
Seems obvious to me. If you pull the KS BEFORE opening anything up top, the drain off would be minimal. Hoses then attached will keep clean up to a minimum. After draining the AF, then running the hose through the system/block would also put that runoff in a bucket or ? instead of in your garage, down the driveway and into the ocean via stormdrain system (ie. gutter).
there is tons of "crap" still stuck in the block anyway no matter what you do you can't get it all out to have a "pure" environment. Tap water & dex cool mix is fine for my car.
there is tons of "crap" still stuck in the block anyway no matter what you do you can't get it all out to have a "pure" environment. Tap water & dex cool mix is fine for my car.
One application appears to running too much water to the coolant ratio...boiled/rusted...I'm pretty sure they had a constant coolant leak and they kept topping the system off with water. The other pic is what happens when people mix non capatible coolant mixtures together .
There is nothin' wrong with running the "Dex" as long as people can follow the directions on the label.
One application appears to running too much water to the coolant ratio...boiled/rusted...I'm pretty sure they had a constant coolant leak and they kept topping the system off with water. The other pic is what happens when people mix non capatible coolant mixtures together .
There is nothin' wrong with running the "Dex" as long as people can follow the directions on the label.
I'm far from an expert, but isn't the orange stuff for later year cars? GM recommends the green stuff back in the C4 days?
I would also guess it's almost impossible to get every bit of the green stuff out, hiding in nooks/crannies, then mixes with the orange. No fear of this?
I'm far from an expert, but isn't the orange stuff for later year cars? GM recommends the green stuff back in the C4 days?
I would also guess it's almost impossible to get every bit of the green stuff out, hiding in nooks/crannies, then mixes with the orange. No fear of this?
Yes, I know the "green" flavor was what came in the '89 car from the factory. With the better gaskets which are available today I have no problems thowing the long life dex cool in there. Every part (except for the old h20 pump to heater core hose) of my cooling system was "new" and the old block/heads was sonic washed/hot tanked for the rebuild......so no - no fear of cross contamination for me. I'm not telling people to convert over their stock gasketed applications to dex cool I was just sharing that I run the lower maintenance/longer life dex cool with tap water in my application.
It really depends on the quality of the tap water in your area. Here in Memphis we have some of the best water in the world (one of the few good things) and I have never used distilled and never had a problem. If you live in an area with hard water you are probably better off using distilled.
The ions and minerals common in tap water can be corrosive to engine parts. Plus it depletes the anti-corrosion additives that most antifreezes contain.
Is your engine going to blow up by running tap water out of the garden hose? No.
Distilled water on the other hand is free of impurities. It's boiled and it's steam is collected so all impurities are gone.
In car battery maintenance distilled water is recommended for topping off when low. Why? Because the ions in tap water shorten the battery's lifespan. The last thing anyone wants is to shorter their battery life.
Distilled water is like .80 cent a gallon at the grocery store anyway.
I've always used distilled water to top off the cells in a battery, dad drilled that in my head forever ago! Never knew about using it to mix with the anti freeze, just always used tap water. Good to know!